LED flasher Problem Rocket III Touring

The Touring has its turn flasher module integrated into the Instrument panel. It cannot be replaced by a substitute external module (well not without significant re-wiring effort)
So yes, parallel resistors are the only solution when using LED 'bulbs' on a T



Two strikes there Mike :D
It didn't fail (see below) and LEDs have HIGH resistance

The rear turn signal lights are often wired backwards with the polarity revered i.e. the ground is the centre pin and the 'hot' is the casing; that doesn't matter for an incandescent but for LEDs you will have to swap the polarity of the wires.
You still need load resistors also however.


Emm, that would be one for the Right & one for the Left :D
You only need one for each side and it can be installed anywhere on the left or right circuits, whether you choose to install at the front or the rear.
Required value is earlier in thread.

I was only suggesting a cause of the problem. I didn't know the tourer had built in electronics for the indicator.(seems yet again a stupid Triumph design)
I have a roadster.
Sorry I suggested the wrong thing.
 
You need to install resisters if you own a touring model. One for the front and one for the back turn signals. The roadster requires only a new 3 prong flasher.

Does this help or confuse more?

How to Calculate Resistor Value for LED Lighting
August 19, 2012 George 0 Comment


Following these steps will give us the resistor value for LEDs powered by 12V, DC:

  1. Determine the voltage and current needed for your LED.
  2. We’ll use the following formula to determine the resistor value: Resistor = (Battery Voltage – LED voltage) / desired LED current.
  3. For a typical white LED that requires 10mA, powered by 12V the values are: (12-3.4)/.010=860 ohms.
  4. To use several LEDs in parallel, sum the current values. From the example above, if we use 5 white LEDs the current requirement is 10mA x 5 = 50mA. So (12-3.4)/.050=172 ohms.
LEDs are becoming more and more popular for a variety of lighting projects and needs. This is due to the excellent power efficiency and extended life times of LEDs over incandescent lamps. Also, as the technology improves and production increases, the cost continues to be reduced.

LED is an acronym for Light Emitting Diode. This means that an LED has a specific polarity that must be applied to make it produce light. Failure to observe this polarity requirement will cause the LED to fail to light and could cause catastrophic damage to the LED. This is because an LED has a relatively low value of reverse polarity voltage that is allowed (normally about 5 volts). Since an LED is essentially a diode, it has a maximum current value that cannot be exceeded for any period of time.

With this in mind, we will explore the requirements for the limiting resistor that must be used in an LED circuit. Since LEDs are available in various colors, the required resistance value will vary depending on the color of the LED. This is because the color of the LED is determined by the materials used to make it and these various materials have different voltage characteristics. The forward voltage value is the voltage required to cause the LED to light. Typical Red, Green, Orange, and Yellow LEDs have a forward voltage of approximately 2.0 volts; but White and Blue LEDs have a forward voltage value of 3.4 volts. Because of this variation the value of resistor value will vary depending on what the LED color is. The procedure is to choose a resistor value that will produce the correct amount of current to flow in the LED based on this forward voltage value and the value of the Power supply that is powering the circuit.

Since automotive applications are one of the most popular uses for LEDs, I will go through an example for an LED lighting project that uses 12 volts as the power source. The formula required is ohm’s law which states that the Resistance is equal to the Voltage divided by the Current. The important feature to note here is that the voltage value used in the calculation is the difference between the power supply (battery) voltage and the LED’s forward voltage value. This is because we want the resistor to “drop” the voltage from the power source down to the forward voltage value of the LED. So the formula becomes

Resistor = (Battery Voltage – LED voltage) / desired LED current. So assuming a 12 volt power source and a white LED with a desired current of 10 mA; The formula becomes Resistor = (12-3.4)/.010 which is 860 ohms. Since this is not a standard value I would use an 820 ohm resistor. We also need to determine the power rating (watts) of the required resistor. This is calculated by multiplying the voltage value dropped across the resistor by the current value flowing in it. For our example above, (12-3.4) X .010 = 0.086 so we can safely use a ¼ watt resistor in this application since we should use the next highest standard wattage rating.

If more than one LED is required, multiple LEDs (of the same color) may be connected in parallel. This will maintain the same voltage requirement but the current value will increase in direct proportion to the number of LEDs. The wattage rating of the resistor may also increase. An as example we will assume the same white LED but we will connect 5 LEDs in parallel. Therefore, the current value required will be 10 mA multiplied by 5 (.010 X 5 =.050). Using this in our formula ; (12-3.4)/.050= 172 ohms. Use the standard value of 180 ohms. The wattage rating will now be higher (12-3.4) X .050 = .43 so we need to use at least a ½ watt resistor in this case.

The two examples will be repeated for Red LEDs. For a single Red LED: (12-2.0)/.010= 1000 ohms which is 1K ohms and wattage rating is (12-2.0) X (.010) = .100 so ¼ watt is sufficient. For 5 Red LEDs in parallel: (12-2.0)/.05= 200 ohms which is a standard value and wattage rating is (12-2.0) X .050 = .5 so I would use a 1 watt resistor to give us some tolerance to compensate for variations in power supply voltage etc.

As we can see, determining the resistor value for lighting LEDs is simple and straightforward, but we must take into consideration the color of the LED as well as the wattage rating of the required resistor and the number of LEDs in the circuit.
 
I was only suggesting a cause of the problem. I didn't know the tourer had built in electronics for the indicator.(seems yet again a stupid Triumph design)
It's not a Triumph thing. It is becoming quite common. If you're going to make a complex electronic data display device - why not implement some simple blinky electronics in there too.
 
I was only suggesting a cause of the problem. I didn't know the tourer had built in electronics for the indicator.(seems yet again a stupid Triumph design)
I have a roadster.
Sorry I suggested the wrong thing.

Its how they control the self canceling signals. Combination of time and distance.
 
I'm doing some changes to my lighting as part of my "reconstruction". I bought one of these;

IMG_20180203_100155.jpg

It has adjustable flash rate. To make it work you have to reverse the + and - terminals on the socket. I also have these;
https://youtu.be/7M2IJwMBEuU
I'm going to mount either on or below my new saddlebags. I put led's in the front and everything worked except the green indicator in the tachometer. Wasn't happy with the brightness of the front led's so put in higher wattage incandescent and everything works fine.
 
Does this help or confuse more?.
Honestly, it is just going to confuse more - a really long explanation of how to create a 12V - friendly single LED or Array from BARE LEDs which is actually not at all relevant to the resistor requirement to control the flash rate.
The resistors in question are required for completely different from those used for that explanation.
The resistors in the article are used in SERIES with the LEDs to drop voltage and control current through the bare LEDs
When you buy a 12V LED 'Bulb' it is already internally configured to run at 12V, incorporating the appropriate resistors.
The resistors used for flash rate control are PARALLEL resistors, to draw additional current to simulate the same current drawn by the original incandescent

The resistor values required for a Touring, I already gave in post #12 and this was validated by @Cherokee - no calculation necessary
 
Honestly, it is just going to confuse more - a really long explanation of how to create a 12V - friendly single LED or Array from BARE LEDs which is actually not at all relevant to the resistor requirement to control the flash rate.
The resistors in question are required for completely different from those used for that explanation.
The resistors in the article are used in SERIES with the LEDs to drop voltage and control current through the bare LEDs
When you buy a 12V LED 'Bulb' it is already internally configured to run at 12V, incorporating the appropriate resistors.
The resistors used for flash rate control are PARALLEL resistors, to draw additional current to simulate the same current drawn by the original incandescent

The resistor values required for a Touring, I already gave in post #12 and this was validated by @Cherokee - no calculation necessary

Sorry folks if I have posted a confusing calculation. I thought it may help.
 
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