LED flasher Problem Rocket III Touring

[Cherokee]

I ended up with Kuryakyn Load Equalizers (basically resistors) for each rear turn signal. I tried all sorts of other combos but this ended up being the best solution for me. Mounted under right side panel.

@tdragger Can you explain more how you did this? And was this on a Touring Model?

 

[tdragger]

@tdragger Can you explain more how you did this? And was this on a Touring Model?

Oh boy, that was a long, long time ago. It's on a Standard model so it could be different.

I used these little bad boys. Read the instructions and see if you can adapt them. http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/718/load-equalizers

 

[DEcosse]

... It's been at the dealer for three weeks while they try to figure out how to correct the rate of turn signal flash. They found the integrated electronic 'relay' in the guage cluster. they tried all sorts of resisters in all possible positions. They can get it working with the engine off but, when they start the bike, they don't flash

Triumph was no help. They still don't have it fixed

UPDATE:
OK, the dealer gave up... Ends up that resisters dont work at all.

There is no reason that a resistor - of the correct value - would not work
The key is to match the 'new' load (LED plus parallel resistor) to the original load (the bulbs)

Two incandescent turns on one side (front & rear) are 10W + 10W = 20W
Two 10W bulbs in parallel at 12V (nominal) present 20W load and together have an equivalent resistance of ~ 8 ohms* (16 ohms for each 10W bulb, together in parallel is presenting 8 ohms to the driver)
Regardless of whether there are actual 'bulbs' or a resistor (assuming it is equivalent in size) makes no difference to the turn signal module, which is oblivious to what type of load it is, only that the current it is supplying is the same.
So - if an 8 ohm resistor is applied in PARALLEL to the LED, the load current should be the same.**

* that would be only ONE 8 ohm resistor per side, and that value would be if ALL FOUR turns are replaced with LEDs.
If replacing the fronts (or rears) ONLY with LED (the other end remaining incandescent) then the resistor required would be 16 ohms per side

i.e. The resistor value is dependent on (& different) whether only front or only rear, or all four are being replaced;
And then the resistor must be connected in parallel across the LED (NOT in series)
It is inconsequential whether the resistor is connected across the front or rear light, regardless of even which of the lamps (or both) was changed to LED - it only matters that it is connected between the positive signal line and ground, whether that be front or rear. This may not 'sound' correct, but in actuality, say you replaced the front signals only with LEDs, the same result would be obtained by connecting the resistor across the rear incandescent lamp, as it would if you elected to connect at the front LED lamp.
Why? Because the front & rear lamps are directly connected to each other. So you are connecting the resistor at the 'node' rather than what you perceive to be that particular lamp.

For a standard or Roadster, don't even mess with resistors, just replace the Turn Signal Module (Relay) with a CF13GL-02 Electronic Relay which is plug n play replacement and will eliminate the fast flash.
Not an option on the Touring with the integrated Turn Controller in the Instruments.

** p.s. The influence of the LED current in parallel with the resistor (because it is the resistor that is 'mimicking' the bulb) should be relatively inconsequential, adding only about 10% of the current compared to the bulb (or resistor).
Note also that 8 ohm resistor needs to be at least 20W and the 16 ohm resistor at least 10W. They WILL get somewhat hot, but fortunately their duty cycle (flashing) and fact they are only used for short periods, negates that as a major concern.

 

[Cherokee]

There is no reason that a resistor - of the correct value - would not work
The key is to match the 'new' load (LED plus parallel resistor) to the original load (the bulbs)

Two incandescent turns on one side (front & rear) are 10W + 10W = 20W
Two 10W bulbs in parallel at 12V (nominal) present 20W load and together have an equivalent resistance of ~ 8 ohms* (16 ohms for each 10W bulb, together in parallel is presenting 8 ohms to the driver)
Regardless of whether there are actual 'bulbs' or a resistor (assuming it is equivalent in size) makes no difference to the turn signal module, which is oblivious to what type of load it is, only that the current it is supplying is the same.
So - if an 8 ohm resistor is applied in PARALLEL to the LED, the load current should be the same.**

* that would be only ONE 8 ohm resistor per side, and that value would be if ALL FOUR turns are replaced with LEDs.
If replacing the fronts (or rears) ONLY with LED (the other end remaining incandescent) then the resistor required would be 16 ohms per side

i.e. The resistor value is dependent on (& different) whether only front or only rear, or all four are being replaced;
And then the resistor must be connected in parallel across the LED (NOT in series)
It is inconsequential whether the resistor is connected across the front or rear light, regardless of even which of the lamps (or both) was changed to LED - it only matters that it is connected between the positive signal line and ground, whether that be front or rear. This may not 'sound' correct, but in actuality, say you replaced the front signals only with LEDs, the same result would be obtained by connecting the resistor across the rear incandescent lamp, as it would if you elected to connect at the front LED lamp.
Why? Because the front & rear lamps are directly connected to each other. So you are connecting the resistor at the 'node' rather than what you perceive to be that particular lamp.

For a standard or Roadster, don't even mess with resistors, just replace the Turn Signal Module (Relay) with a CF13GL-02 Electronic Relay which is plug n play replacement and will eliminate the fast flash.
Not an option on the Touring with the integrated Turn Controller in the Instruments.

** p.s. The influence of the LED current in parallel with the resistor (because it is the resistor that is 'mimicking' the bulb) should be relatively inconsequential, adding only about 10% of the current compared to the bulb (or resistor).
Note also that 8 ohm resistor needs to be at least 20W and the 16 ohm resistor at least 10W. They WILL get somewhat hot, but fortunately their duty cycle (flashing) and fact they are only used for short periods, negates that as a major concern.

Decosse is RIGHT ON with this!

I purchased Decosse's keyless setup (wonderful!) I also told him I wanted to go all LED but was worried about the fast flash and also didn't want to drop 2-3 hundred on replacement lights. He told me exactly how to hook up a couple of 10 ohm resisters to the turn signal wires (even told me the colors of the wires!). I got 5 LED's on Ebay (one for brake light). Hardest part was to find ones that were low profile enough to fit in the stock turn signals. First couple I got were too tall.

Anyway. Got some 64 SMD Red LED's for the back and the taillight and got some Amber ones for the front. Put them in, turned the power on...and PERFECT. All blink at normal speeds!

So cost about $35 for all the bulbs and now I have ALL LED turn signals! Really the hardest part out of the entire deal is that the stock turn signals have CRAP for a connection system (a couple of metal clips, not a real socket). Getting those suckers on just right after putting the bulbs in was a chore. I am sort of glad that someone stole my front lights and I had to replace them with J&P Cycle ones (Well...actually not glad at all! STILL PISSED...but at least these have a real socket for bulbs)

Many thanks to Decosse for all his patience and excellent instructions!

 

[DEcosse]

.... He told me exactly how to hook up a couple of 10 ohm resisters to the turn signal wires ....

Just a quick post script on the discrepancy of my suggested 8 ohms vs the 10 that Cherokee ultimately used: I had those 10's on hand and made them up into a little harness with some Positaps for him to install; although the calculated overall value is ~8 I estimated slightly higher value would be fine in parallel with the actual LED current which would effectively lower the net value.
So I suggested try them & if necessary replace with 8's. But my supposition was good, the 10's were fine as it turned out
8's OR10's should be fine

 

[sleeves]

I fitted LED indicators and a load resistor prior to the relay slowed down the flashing but not enough to let me get a warrant of fitness I'm pretty sure.

Think I might need to get a specific LED indicator relay?

 

[DEcosse]

I fitted LED indicators and a load resistor prior to the relay ...

I think you mean on OUTPUT of relay, not 'prior to' ....

You have a std - this discussion is specific to the Touring where the relay is embedded in the instruments and cannot be replaced.
- the most efficient way to accommodate on yours (requires no wiring) is to just swap the relay (not an option on the Touring).
It's plug n play and just looks much cleaner too obviously.
But yes, the resistor should do the job if you're happy enough with it

 

[sleeves]

I think you mean on OUTPUT of relay, not 'prior to' ....

You have a std - this discussion is specific to the Touring where the relay is embedded in the instruments and cannot be replaced.
- the most efficient way to accommodate on yours (requires no wiring) is to just swap the relay (not an option on the Touring).
It's plug n play and just looks much cleaner too obviously.
But yes, the resistor should do the job if you're happy enough with it

Thanks heaps DEcosse this has been nagging at me for a while as the flash was still too fast, will get a relay sorted tomorrow.

 

[DEcosse]

If resistor is not doing the job to correct the flash rate, you either have the wrong size (I can't quite make it out in your picture) or, if indeed you have it wired PRIOR to the relay, that is incorrect, should be on the output side;
but really a single resistor is not a good idea regardless as it applies load constantly to the flasher, which would mean it is actually "flashing" all the time (although the lamps themselves would not be on till you apply the switch to either side.
So for those who want to use resistors, at least two should be used and connected in parallel with left & right signals.
But again - best to just deep-six the resistor altogether and get an LED compatible relay (e.g. CF13GL-02)*

*This info only applies to non-Touring models; for Touring, see posts above.

 

[mully95]

Decosse is RIGHT ON with this!

I purchased Decosse's keyless setup (wonderful!) I also told him I wanted to go all LED but was worried about the fast flash and also didn't want to drop 2-3 hundred on replacement lights. He told me exactly how to hook up a couple of 10 ohm resisters to the turn signal wires (even told me the colors of the wires!). I got 5 LED's on Ebay (one for brake light). Hardest part was to find ones that were low profile enough to fit in the stock turn signals. First couple I got were too tall.

Anyway. Got some 64 SMD Red LED's for the back and the taillight and got some Amber ones for the front. Put them in, turned the power on...and PERFECT. All blink at normal speeds!

So cost about $35 for all the bulbs and now I have ALL LED turn signals! Really the hardest part out of the entire deal is that the stock turn signals have CRAP for a connection system (a couple of metal clips, not a real socket). Getting those suckers on just right after putting the bulbs in was a chore. I am sort of glad that someone stole my front lights and I had to replace them with J&P Cycle ones (Well...actually not glad at all! STILL PISSED...but at least these have a real socket for bulbs)

Many thanks to Decosse for all his patience and excellent instructions!

You wouldn't by chance have the part numbers for the LEDs would you? What I'm after is something that is brighter than the stock tail light so commuters can see me better. I've looked at various web sites that sell them but not exactly sure what to get.