2018 Rocket III Roadster - Drive Issue?

Thank you! So probably should replace the entire clutch basket? Do you have any recommendations on kits? I have looked online but have never bought parts for this bike, so any help would be appreciated.
how about taking some pictures ot the clutch lever and the bottom lever and adjustment and then we will see.
 
check the free play first before ordering parts maybe you'll be lucky and getting the free play correct might sort the problem as turbo says

how about taking some pictures ot the clutch lever and the bottom lever and adjustment and then we will see.
So. I am a dumbass. Clutch lever broke little while ago so I replaced with a generic which to fit pulled tight on the clutch cable. The dots on the bottom level match...I guarantee it was pulled to much with the new lever ...I have the right lever coming but damage is probably already done.
 
So. I am a dumbass. Clutch lever broke little while ago so I replaced with a generic which to fit pulled tight on the clutch cable. The dots on the bottom level match...I guarantee it was pulled to much with the new lever ...I have the right lever coming but damage is probably already done.
it may still be good
when you get it on start with the adjustments about half way and adjust from there.
by the way the way it was adjusted it had the lower lever almost pulled all the way.
 
So. I am a dumbass. Clutch lever broke little while ago so I replaced with a generic which to fit pulled tight on the clutch cable. The dots on the bottom level match...I guarantee it was pulled to much with the new lever ...I have the right lever coming but damage is probably already done.
I am curious, how did the clutch lever brake?
 
Its not hard, i think im just agreeing with the guys above are thinking. But if my guess is wrong a new pack from barnett will set you back about 300, a new gasket, the trick going in the first time is paying attention to every detail on every part you remove, pictures, there are videos on you tube also that will help. Just protect front fender cause youre gonna hit it if not, shifter arm has dots that must line up, the lifter pin for the clutch pack must have play in it after tightening up clutch plate 2mm kinda play, when done you should have 2 to 3 mm at clutch cable at top. Those are some of the things that can mess you up. If you go with barnett you will get the correct number of plates and fibers as you will no longer use the judder pieces currently in pack if stock. Just make sure that basket is empty when you pull out old stuff, check and recheck as judder washers can easily be missed. Give yourself a weekend and go slow taking lots of pictures and understand what you have to remove to get job done, manual for job is here, search IDK and in his bio its there. 2 sets of hands and eyes can be a big help doing this.
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it may still be good
when you get it on start with the adjustments about half way and adjust from there.
by the way the way it was adjusted it had the lower lever almost pulled all the way.
Got the new Clutch lever - the right one for the bike this time. Runs Great, shifts great. That is unbelievable...check the small things first before jumping to major conclusions..THANK YOU TURBO200R4
 
So. I am a dumbass. Clutch lever broke little while ago so I replaced with a generic which to fit pulled tight on the clutch cable. The dots on the bottom level match...I guarantee it was pulled to much with the new lever ...I have the right lever coming but damage is probably already done.
that one small bit of info left out at thread explanation on page 1, is, an advice of what do you think killer😂 good on turbo wanting to see those dots
 
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