Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

ROCKETHEAD said:
on my 2014 roadster the headlights stay on when you use the kill switch...

Also did a amp draw over the kill switch and ignition switch feeds and it is way low so I have to assume the headlights follow another path with a relay...
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On my 2012 the headlights are OFF until the kill switch is set to ON. Then when I press the ignition the headlights turn off until the motor is started
 
i don't have a wiring diagram for roadsters but the headlight relay when energized sends battery current to headlights via dimmer switch. so i have been told.
 
TO rocket said:
Then something is not right with you wiring. Did you ever have the "update kit" installed?
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Been told that before, I have always blamed Viet Nam and the X-Wife, I believe the bike is Ok though. In all seriousness, I have only had a partial upgrade kit. The paint can rattle was cured early with cam chain and sprocket replacements, a back wards installed shaft bearing was fixed later. All of the bills footed by Triumph with most of it out of warranty, so there have been no harness upgrades. I have owned the bike since new and will keep her till the big dirt nap arrives. The bike has always been cared for with all of the connections checked and coated with dialectic grease. In the numerous times I have been under that tank and side covers I have never smelled any electrical odors or seen any signs of overheating. In all fairness this is the third switch install, but only the second switch. The first one was removed and repaired with a loose connection re-soldered, but it only lasted about a year. I certainly haven't read through all 27 pages of the this thread, but I think it has always been known the OEM switch is a weak link in this great machine. (That is my theory and I am sticking with it.) Currently the bike is only acting up occasionally, usually during cool morning starts. She will fire, then everything goes dead. Wriggle the switch or turn it off, all of the juice returns and she kicks off. That is the exact same symptoms that occurred when the problem surfaced before, finally resulting in complete death of the electrics and the only time the bike was ever trailered home. I will install the new switch when it arrives and hope for the best, the Beast is still worth the hassle and cost...........
 
Ignition short?? I'm no electrical genius so I'm hoping not to have to trace every wire on the bike.

Background: 07 Classic, no EB relay upgrade (have parts, will this weekend), K&N mod under claw, secondaries removed, new battery (last summer), no previous electrical issues.

Problem: Electric dies, and recycles for start. Happens whether running or not. Only when bike is moved or bars are turned. Starts fine and throttle is responsive. Neutral indication is present. Any movement of the bike or bars and its like I've cycled the kill switch. Only recent work was removing, cleaning, replacing filters.

Suggestions: my thought is a short somewhere in the ignition switch since the movement of handlebars will activate the cycle. But I'm open to the possibility that I pulled a wire or did something when remounting my filters? My secondary sensor is mounted into my #2 K&N.
I've read through the posts and it seems there's a white wire that could be the cause (location?) or the switch itself (solder melted away?)
 
I have had the exact problem on my 06 STD. The ignition switch itself wasn't failing (yet) but it was the wire connections at the bottom of it. The wires had some cold solder joints. They also had excessive solder. It looked like novice work. I'd bet a dollar against a donut that is where your problem is located.
 
STRIPES said:
I have had the exact problem on my 06 STD. The ignition switch itself wasn't failing (yet) but it was the wire connections at the bottom of it. The wires had some cold solder joints. They also had excessive solder. It looked like novice work. I'd bet a dollar against a donut that is where your problem is located.
Click to expand...

I hope it's that simple. Sounds like that would be an easy fix...unbolt from bars, re-solder, bolt back on?
 
cardinal93 said:
I hope it's that simple. Sounds like that would be an easy fix...unbolt from bars, re-solder, bolt back on?
Click to expand...
The hardest part is unscrewing the stupid anti-theft screws holding the switch on. It would take a thief about 1/2 hour to even get to those screws! It is possible to completely take the switch apart and clean and check the contacts. The switch I took apart got so hot it unsoldered the white (main power from battery) wire and melted part of the plastic that the contacts slide in, gripping the contact so the spring couldn't push the contact firmly against the contact. A bit of trimming with a sharp blade fixed that and it has been good for a while now. A relay kit was installed at the same time. HTH
 

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