Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
im not sure, but switching primary and secondary can be done if you had to, I thought you asked if you could swap them and this video shows how to do that.
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
I will try to explain my point of view .
I have been a mechanic since 1966 and been on this site for about ten years and in all of that time i have never heard of a motor only missing in 2nd gear so if you are waiting for someone to tell you that this is your problem then you are in for a long wait.
So the best we can do is to tell you what makes the rocket miss.
Ok just thought of something. My best guess is that it is popping out and back into 2nd real fast and mimicking an ignition miss.
Hth. Herman
I have been a mechanic since 1966 and been on this site for about ten years and in all of that time i have never heard of a motor only missing in 2nd gear so if you are waiting for someone to tell you that this is your problem then you are in for a long wait.
So the best we can do is to tell you what makes the rocket miss.
Ok just thought of something. My best guess is that it is popping out and back into 2nd real fast and mimicking an ignition miss.
Hth. Herman
ozrider
2008 Standard
just putting it out there but I agree with @TURBO200R4 and sounds like 2nd gear dog is toast !!!!
Mongler07
Turbocharged
HUMMMM, i can see that, Thats what it kinda feels like.
Claviger
Aspiring Student
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- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
I totally forgot this is the same bike with definite rounded dogs in 2nd.
It's doing exactly as Turbo says, there is no existing system on a rocket that can cause a hard and exclusive to 2nd gear miss, unless someone were to do some super crazy stuff with timing tables.
The dogs get worse over time once they're rounded enough to slip. Every time you shift into 2nd, it gets worse, every time it slips out of gear, it gets worse. Each event bashes the corner of the dog a little more, rounding it progressively. Once it's rounded, the rate of damage accelerates as more area on the corner strikes with each subsequent event, causing more rounding in a positive feedback loop.
If your bike follows the rate of failure mine did, your less than 100 city miles from never being able to use 2nd gear, it will slip out the instant any torque is applied via throttle. Either adapt to a 4 speed and skip 2nd all the time or it's time for big maintenance
PS:
The 12 minute forced adaptation is a huge trap and waste of time, the adjustment algorithm is designed explicitly for the stock intake/exhaust. Any adjustment it makes with a modified bike will be incorrect. Once the bike is up to temp, it automatically does this adjustment while you sit at stop lights as long as your not blipping the throttle. However, if O2 is disabled this doesn't occur, which is why you should never click reset adaptations in TuneECU after getting the bike tuned with O2 disabled, because it will skew the entire custom tune,and conversely, why a custom tune should always have O2 sensor disabled.
It's doing exactly as Turbo says, there is no existing system on a rocket that can cause a hard and exclusive to 2nd gear miss, unless someone were to do some super crazy stuff with timing tables.
The dogs get worse over time once they're rounded enough to slip. Every time you shift into 2nd, it gets worse, every time it slips out of gear, it gets worse. Each event bashes the corner of the dog a little more, rounding it progressively. Once it's rounded, the rate of damage accelerates as more area on the corner strikes with each subsequent event, causing more rounding in a positive feedback loop.
If your bike follows the rate of failure mine did, your less than 100 city miles from never being able to use 2nd gear, it will slip out the instant any torque is applied via throttle. Either adapt to a 4 speed and skip 2nd all the time or it's time for big maintenance
PS:
The 12 minute forced adaptation is a huge trap and waste of time, the adjustment algorithm is designed explicitly for the stock intake/exhaust. Any adjustment it makes with a modified bike will be incorrect. Once the bike is up to temp, it automatically does this adjustment while you sit at stop lights as long as your not blipping the throttle. However, if O2 is disabled this doesn't occur, which is why you should never click reset adaptations in TuneECU after getting the bike tuned with O2 disabled, because it will skew the entire custom tune,and conversely, why a custom tune should always have O2 sensor disabled.
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Mongler07
Turbocharged
yea, sux. i guess its due to the added power coming back on that just did it in for good.
So lets say i split the case open, what parts am i replacing, upgrading, or do i look for a newer engine and do the sawp? what engine? When was this issue fixed?
Claviger
Aspiring Student
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- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
The issue was never fully fixed, my 2014 did it. Bought at 0 miles, trans failure in less than 5000, but 2nd was slipping out long before that.
You will need both 2nd gears (in/out), detent spring, clutch nut, front cover gasket, all circlips on both input/output shaft, the anaerobic sealant, special tool for stator/flywheel removal, updated clutch cover plate, updated lifter, updated lifter fork, and the washers etc in that area, reg/green/blue loctite, stator cover gasket, head gasket, new or ARP head bolts, and Triumph say case bolts should be replaced (I used ARP because if you ever have to split it again, ARP just saved you money, not a kit, order by size).
The parts bill will likely be around $1500.
DO NOT split or try to split the cases before you get the stator off and remove the 3 bolts. If you do, you'll break the mounting tabs there.
That should get you a reliable trans again, but I may have forgotten some pieces. The update kit changed a lot of little stuff, some more necessary than others. The easiest way to get all the updates, is compare part numbers between classic and roadster. Buy all the roadster trans/clutch stuff that has differing part numbers/diagrams.
Or....buy a crashed Roadster or find one being parted out and buy the stuff from it
Most of the update parts are low/no wear items.
eBay yields no good candidates currently, boo.
You will need both 2nd gears (in/out), detent spring, clutch nut, front cover gasket, all circlips on both input/output shaft, the anaerobic sealant, special tool for stator/flywheel removal, updated clutch cover plate, updated lifter, updated lifter fork, and the washers etc in that area, reg/green/blue loctite, stator cover gasket, head gasket, new or ARP head bolts, and Triumph say case bolts should be replaced (I used ARP because if you ever have to split it again, ARP just saved you money, not a kit, order by size).
The parts bill will likely be around $1500.
DO NOT split or try to split the cases before you get the stator off and remove the 3 bolts. If you do, you'll break the mounting tabs there.
That should get you a reliable trans again, but I may have forgotten some pieces. The update kit changed a lot of little stuff, some more necessary than others. The easiest way to get all the updates, is compare part numbers between classic and roadster. Buy all the roadster trans/clutch stuff that has differing part numbers/diagrams.
Or....buy a crashed Roadster or find one being parted out and buy the stuff from it
Most of the update parts are low/no wear items.eBay yields no good candidates currently, boo.
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Claviger
Aspiring Student
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2014
- Messages
- 6,934
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- Olympia Washington
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- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
Financially, you would likely be better off parting yours out and buying a used Roadster.
Sucks but just the way it is.
If it's a bike you intend to keep for a long time, doing the trans stuff and sending it to Robinson for modification is the smart move. There's no way to know another rocket won't have the same issue, and the Robinson work eliminates the trans as a source of failure pretty much for good. They send you both shafts fully assembled so you just drop them in and reassemble after double checking everything's orientation.
Such a shame as everything is over provisioned in strength and let down by QC at Hinkley.
Sucks but just the way it is.
If it's a bike you intend to keep for a long time, doing the trans stuff and sending it to Robinson for modification is the smart move. There's no way to know another rocket won't have the same issue, and the Robinson work eliminates the trans as a source of failure pretty much for good. They send you both shafts fully assembled so you just drop them in and reassemble after double checking everything's orientation.
Such a shame as everything is over provisioned in strength and let down by QC at Hinkley.
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Mongler07
Turbocharged
can you expand on "Robinson" im new to the forums and the cult following
Some of you know, this bike i was paid to have. Some Guy smashed both my bikes (insurance question)
The bike was CHEAP when i got it and its more than paid for with the insurance
kinda wish that the gear issue was not basically RIGHT after i said, im just patching up my exhaust to get more life out of her! SO ill start gathering parts and this is this winters project!
Ill probably shift my attention into my nighthawk
Claviger
Aspiring Student
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2014
- Messages
- 6,934
- Location
- Olympia Washington
- Ride
- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
These are your peeps. Best to call early AM Mon/Tues, they're industrious folks with a lot of work to do.
www.robinsonindustriesinc.com
Absolute top notch work quality, they do a lot of Rocket transmissions, or did at one time. When I sent mine, they had a batch of 5 going lol.
Triumph Products
www.robinsonindustriesinc.com
Absolute top notch work quality, they do a lot of Rocket transmissions, or did at one time. When I sent mine, they had a batch of 5 going lol.
