Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

Hi Howard...thanks for the post...just had the R3 in for it's 100 000 km service and spoke to my mate the service manager about the problem...he bridged the connector plug under the tank, as the plug and connectors become brittle with age and sometimes make a bad connection...problem now seems solved as have done some 500k on the bike since with numerous starts and lights uo every time
 
Hi Howard...thanks for the post...just had the R3 in for it's 100 000 km service and spoke to my mate the service manager about the problem...he bridged the connector plug under the tank, as the plug and connectors become brittle with age and sometimes make a bad connection...problem now seems solved as have done some 500k on the bike since with numerous starts and lights uo every time

As I've had this replaced once, my new dealer is replacing the whole harness instead of just the ignition itself. Funny when I called Triumph's "customer service" they said they never heard of such an issue. Thank God for the internet. Otherwise, I would just had to believe the line of bullsh*t they where feeding me. It's in my top 5 things I love about my move to Las Vegas, I have great Triumph dealer.
 
You have to love the way Triumph owns up to their problems. Years ago when my tranny went for the second time I asked my dealer about getting the update kit installed. They said they had never heard of such a kit but would call Triumph and enquire about it. Triumph said they weren't aware of such a thing. My dealer told me, sorry but it must be an internet myth. I gave them a part number for the kit and magically I was approved and the kit was installed. I was, however. impressed that Triumph did this two years out of warranty even though I had to do a bit of digging.
 
Last Sunday we went for a 160 mile ride over the Brecon Beacons in Wales and stopped at a friends house on the way back. I had to move the bike within 15 minutes of being there so he could move his car. I went out and the bike was dead, nothing but the horn would work. I went back in and had a look at the forums and found this common problem. Luckily the bike started a couple of hours later and we got home OK. I came out this morning to ride into work and the bike is dead. The battery connections look good and i've played with the wires under the tank but nothing. I phoned the Triumph dealer and he acknowledged that there is a problem with a relay on the Rocket under the tank so I have to get the bike to him either today or tomorrow. Just my luck with the Easter break coming up and good weather.
 
add me to the list. I'm getting my second ignition installed as I speak. Wake the F*&K up Mr. Bloor! Your customers are speaking quite loudly.

Me too. Replaced 8 months ago and now 4000 miles later is going in later this month to be replaced again; and this on a R3T not R3R!
 
trouble shooting tree
questions
MODIFIED ON 5/12/14
#1 when you turn the key on does the needles sweep and the headlights come on yes go to # 2
or no could be battery,ignition switch,fuses,connectors under the tank,engine management relay,ect

#2 does the green light come on for neutral yes go to #3
or no could be not in neutral, bad gear sensor,wiring

#3 with the clutch lever pulled in push starter button does the engine turn over yes go to #4
or no could be bad starter button, bad kick stand or not all the way up, bad starter relay, bad battery or bad connections at battery,

#4 the engine is turning over good does the motor start yes your are ok till problem shows up.
or no. Can you hear the fuel running for about 2 seconds as soon as you turn the key on yes go to #5
or no could be bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay,wiring

#5 assuming the fuel pump has enough pressure the problem could be terminals at coils,bad gas,injector or injector wiring.

we have seen connectors,fuse terminals, the wire on ign. switch melting,

this is just a helping hand and does not cover all problems. there may be mistakes in this as i have not spent a lot of time typing this. i may make changes latter and welcome info from hanso, warp and others to correct the info i have typed here.

hope this helps herman
i have been a mechanic for 50 years. the last 39 years i have had my own automatic transmission business and worked on vehicles with many types of electrical problems,like ign. switches, computer problems, shorts, failed relays, and vehicles worked on by other mechanics, ect.
over a period of time the ignition switch gets bad because of the arching when you first turn it on. when your bike is new everything works great and the current to the lights is good. after your bike (and your ign switch) gets some miles on it the ign. switch will no longer flow enough current through the contacts. this causes access heat and can melt the main white wire off the switch, also can cause the connector under the tank to go bad.
many people has installed the eastern beaver or relays to correct this situation, which is very good advice. however you still have the ign. switch with bad contacts that is feeding the starter. some people (like me) has also taken the starter solenoid out of this circuit and have had no problem with the ign. switch.
in the older rockets the power comes from battery through fuse #11 through fuse #2 then by white wire to ign. switch through fuse #9 through the starter relay to headlights.
the best way to check is while you are having the problem is to check voltage from ground to fuse #9 if it is less than 8 volts you need to replace ign. switch. if you are short on money you could possibly get by and do eastern beaver(or relay mods) and take the starter solenoid out of the circuit(starter relay mod)
when i first came to this site i knew very little about the rocket my knowledge was gained through the problems posted and a lot of good guys taking there time to try and help us with our problems. i would like thank those of you that welcome newbies and spend time helping us with our problems.
herman
 
How concerned should I be about this ignition switch problem on a 2012 Roadster? I only have 1000 miles on it now. I've also prevented myself from using the kill switch to turn the bike on or off, I just leave it engaged and use the key.
 
i have not seen a wiring diagram of an 2012 roadster but the info i have received tell me that they have taken the headlights out of the ignition so other than the normal stuff the only major current draw will be the starter solenoid. My personal opinion is that the switch will hold up because the headlights were never in the ign. circuit and that is what takes out the ign switch over a long (or short)time period.
on yours i don't think that it matters what order you use the key or kill switch. book says use key.
i will let hanso answer the question whether you need the eastern beaver or the relay system as he has been working with this and has more info than me.
herman
 
on my 2014 roadster the headlights stay on when you use the kill switch...

Also did a amp draw over the kill switch and ignition switch feeds and it is way low so I have to assume the headlights follow another path with a relay...
 
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