Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

I have a 2012 roadster, I was told to not use the killswitch, was that bull****?
Back when these bikes were new and no one knew much about them the biggest problem that seemed incurable was the high idle/no idle and there were many theories around. It was suggested that using the side stand switch or the kill switch "confused" the ECU. Of course it turned out to be the TPS and your bike should have the new style. They are still not infallible but failures are no longer common.
 
Well My head lights were going out at high speeds under load which kind of sucked at night :( Anyway I was able to get the security screws out from the bottom half of the ley switch without having to remove the triple tree and handle bar stuff. My solder looked good although the wire wire was missing some insulation, but did not look like it was contacting anything. Anyway the contact definetly were heated up and I farked the plastic casing up taking the swith apart. So I ordered a new one and it just arrived. Now to take the lower half off and add it to my upper half so I can keep the same keys. EB kit is already in the bike. But hey still waiting on some parts anywya which is why I might be riding my Sprint instead of the Falcon:(
Anyway the security screws are not hard to puch loose heck I even broke the first one after I got it loose the second one I was able to get out and fortunately there was soem of the first one hanging out the hole when I got the switch down which I was able to unscrew with my fingers. Thank god for some luck :)

I was darn close to going keyless !!!!!!!
 
I am starting this thread and plan to take the post and pass it on the triumph as one big complaint. this is for Ignition switch failure Only So give me your stories.

Hi Steve,

I read through this complete post -Yes, all 29 pages. Did you ever forward this to Triumph? Did you ever get a response?

I found it somewhat comical that Service Bulletin 421 has the same number as the highway you were riding when your ignition melted down. ;-)

I am still waiting to receive my bike from Carpenter, but my VIN falls within the service bulletin's range. I'm inclined to get the EB fix or do it myself with Hanso's drawing (if he sends them to me), rather than have the dealer install Triumph's fix.

The other thing I'm wondering is if anyone has found an ignition switch after-market that is better made? I would put up with using two keys if there is one. Or perhap I'll just remove all electrical function from the switch and locate a power switch and start button elsewhere on the bike.

Just wanted a follow-up from you.

Bruce
 
I am starting this thread and plan to take the post and pass it on the triumph as one big complaint. this is for Ignition switch failure Only So give me your stories.

I will start by giving you mine and you can join in.

I took off on a Friday afternoon for what appeared to be the perfect holiday weekend for a getaway with my wife. Everything was going great the weather was perfect and the roads were great we were on US 421 in Manchester Ky making good time. We were trying to get across the mountain and to our destination, Johnson City Tn before dark. We pulled into a station for fuel and a Bio break and then ready to hit the road. I went to start my my bike and had no power to anything except the horn. My wife was waiting at the edge of the parking lot on her Harley Sportster ready to ride. I tried wiggling the key, checked the cut off switch, and did the usual things you do to get your bike started and still nothing. At this time I had wore out my welcome at the gas pump and the line was getting longer. So I pushed my bike out of the way and told the wife I was having problems. She parked her Harley and asked me what was wrong ? I told her I am sure it was something simple and assured her we would be back on the road in no time. I had just put a new battery on the bike for this trip so I assumed I did not have the connections tight and one must have worked lose. I removed the seat and the connections were fine. I checked the voltage on the battery with a meter and it was fine. By the way I highly suggest if you have a rocket get a cheap meter that checks voltage and continuity and keep it on the bike, I was lucky there was a guy in the parking lot with one. So i determined the battery was OK so i assumed it was a fuse. I proceeded to check the continuity on all the fuses one by one they checked out OK. I cursed and told the wife that the quick fix just became a little more complex and I was going to have to raise the tank. So off I went, removing the windscreen, removing the chrome around the switch housing, pulled the gauges, and raised the tank. I checked the voltage going into the switch and it was good I turned the key on and checked to see if there was voltage on any of the other wires in the harness there was none. At this time I was pretty sure it was the switch and by this time an hour had passed. I started calling people from the site I knew have had this trouble before and asked for suggestions. While I was waiting for a call back I decided I was sure it was the switch and I should go get the supplies needed to bypass before the stores closed. Now come the worse part I had to ask the wife if I could borrow her Harley to go to the auto parts store and I caught myself using a phrase I never though I would say "Thank God For Harley's". So I climbed aboard my wife's sportster 883 low and began my ride of shame to the parts store. by the way for those of you that have never meet me I am not the smallest person in the world and I am sure me riding this 883 looked like a bear humping a dog. So i get the the parts store and started browsing, by the way if you own a rocket I suggest you take good notes because this shopping list will come in handy some day if triumph continues to ignore the problem. I purchased a roll of electrical tape, Wire nuts, Wirestriper/crimpers, 14 gauge wire, and a toggle switch and mounted the Harley one more time and headed back to the stations. While I was gone I got the call I was looking for from NMrocket and he assured me he could walk be through the bypass and get me back on the road. So I put 12" leads on the switch and ran and ran them from under the bearclaw so I could access the switch and it still be hidden. Then I cut the wiring harness and instructed and completed the wiring and tested. I now had power so I reassembled the bike, did I mention that installing the bear claw is a pain in the arse. By this time it was 9:00 pm and we still had about 3 hours to ride most of it in BFE. So we opted to ride a little closer and get a room for the night in the thriving metropolis of hazard Ky were we had the pleasuring of staying in the worse motel ever.

Thanks Triumph for not doing an official recall on the switch that eventually left me stranded as it has a good percentage of rocket owners.

Sincerely

Your not so loyal Customer
Steve Cowherd


I'm not sure if I have the same problem, but it sounds like it. Not long ago after turning on my bike and watching the gauges move, then they went off, and then on again. Now my bike is dead, and i have 12.7 Volts on my battery. So I'm wondering if it could be the switch in this case.
 
hi guys, new to site. also new to what i now know is the infamous R3 ignition fault.2008 rocket 111 classic 7,700 miles on clock. first failed a couple of months ago, rode to work and came back to it 9hr later and no clock lights and no start. left it there till the morning and came back with jump leads and it started. just thought the battery was down (although it lives on trickle charger). i now know it only started by sheer luck !! it has now happened 5-6 times and the temporary fix is to bang the bars hard against the stops (as per info off your site, thank-you) was just going to get it to triumph to put it on dyno for a fueling fault (only averaging 17 mpg :() so cost is going up. i am going to try to get the dealer to pay for switch thru triumph. but i dont hold out much hope reading these threads. with the bike having a car sized engine and a small bike battery, has anyone done a conversion so you can turn the headlights off for shorter journeys to give the battery a chance to keep some charge ? love the bike but dislike triumphs handling of it. has the complaints gathered on this site been sent to triumph ?if so what was the outcome ?
 
I was riding home from work made a left turn and the engine cutout and notice the low fuel light com on. As son as i straitened the bike out it ran fine again with an occasional sputter on along the way. It cut out again turning into the drive and the low fuel light again. when in the garage I checked the fuel. plenty of fuel but there was water pooled around the opening. I found that the over fill drain line was pinched closed. after clearing the line I proceeded to start it and nothing; no lights, gauges, nothing. After monkeying for 5 min or so I turned the handle bars and lights. I then traced the loos connection to the ignition switch. Except for some fuel mapping issues the bike has been problem free. After doing some research on line I found this forum and joined. It is a lot of valuable information, thanks to all of you. I have an Eastern Beaver kit on its way with the low beam shut off and ordered a new ignition switch from the dealer. Triumph did not offer any improved design or acknowledged a problem. Looking at the new Roadster on the showroom floor it appears to have the same switch? Anyway I should have the parts next week some time. Wish me luck.
 
Well My head lights were going out at high speeds under load which kind of sucked at night :( Anyway I was able to get the security screws out from the bottom half of the ley switch without having to remove the triple tree and handle bar stuff. My solder looked good although the wire wire was missing some insulation, but did not look like it was contacting anything. Anyway the contact definetly were heated up and I farked the plastic casing up taking the swith apart. So I ordered a new one and it just arrived. Now to take the lower half off and add it to my upper half so I can keep the same keys. EB kit is already in the bike. But hey still waiting on some parts anywya which is why I might be riding my Sprint instead of the Falcon:(
Anyway the security screws are not hard to puch loose heck I even broke the first one after I got it loose the second one I was able to get out and fortunately there was soem of the first one hanging out the hole when I got the switch down which I was able to unscrew with my fingers. Thank god for some luck :)

I was darn close to going keyless !!!!!!!

How did switch repalecment go I have one on order and was trying to figure how to remove the old one. Were you able to use the original key?
 
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