RESOLVED: 3 weeks troubleshooting, still stuck

[TURBO200R4]

I had the same issue with intermittent misfires. I chased gremlins all over the engine for several weeks.
Turned out that lightly snug spade connections on the coils is definitely not tight enough.
When the ECU detects a momentary open connection on a coil it shuts the coil's power until the engine is stopped and re started.
Drove me nuts. Got code for coil 3 changed it then next start got code for 2 and 3.
About this time I ran across several old posts about this issue.
Tightened coil 2 and e and still didn't run exactly right until I dug down and did coil#1 .
After I flattened the female connectors enough that they were hard to connect then all the engine issues suddenly dissapeared!

we always appreciate everyone's opinion and i just hate to correct anyone but feel i must.
the power to the coils comes from the ign switch and then to engine management relay the ecu does not control this power.
you are correct that the loose wires that the ecu grounds can not ground (if loose) good so the coil will not fire correct.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I'm not sure you will get a high vacuum reading at the sensor when all three lines are tied together, has anybody done that test ?

i have been wondering about this myself
maybe some one with a lot of time should run a test

 

[Valaas]

Just something to try
I do this on cars never tried on bike
On cars if you disconnect the electric connector from map the motor runs rough for a little while then sets a code then sets a default code then the ecu will set a default voltage and the motor will run w/o the map working.

Yes that is effectively what I am trying to achieve by setting the F/L switch to zero, i.e. telling the ECU to use TPS from 0 to WOT

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

No luck finding any suitable x-connector. T, L,Y and straight yes, but x variant will be by mail order. I.e. at least 1 week.
Yes, I had plugs out, grounded and saw excellent spark on all 4 (cylinders 2 & 3) and there is no apparent reason that should have changed. So I am probably best off waiting for oe parts to arrive, before second guessing everything. But I need to get the pure throttle position fuel control test out of my system, just to see if I can get some combustion in cylinders #2 and 3. I have bought an IR temp gauge to get reliable readings

Jeebus. I'd nearly mail you one if it takes that long from online. Just to put this thing to bed.
Hard to believe the local auto parts shops don't have them too - 3mm. Or 4mm would do

 

[wjb]

Drip irrigation uses fittings like that. Any store that has a garden section should have them.

 

[Valaas]

Jeebus. I'd nearly mail you one if it takes that long from online. Just to put this thing to bed.
Hard to believe the local auto parts shops don't have them too - 3mm. Or 4mm would do

Yes, totally agree. Norwegian autoshops aren't that versatile anymore. A few large frenchises got some general gear, but the local autoshop that's got everything just doesn't exist. Not in my region anyway

But my 3 to 1 coupler seem OK. Upon applying unproportionally amounts of pressure I managed to produce a few bubbles between the coupler and the MAP hose just before everything predictably, and litteraly, blew up in my face.
Only injury to my pride.
Going for zeroing out the F/L switch tonight. With limited expectations, but nonetheless. At least that's easily reversed.

 

[Valaas]

Setting the F/L switch to 0 over the entire rpm range had no effect on cylinders 2 & 3.
Ran mainly on cylinder 1. After a few minutes the exhaust manifold was hot on #1 only.

Did yet another sparks out test on cylinders 2 & 3. Still good.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Setting the F/L switch to 0 over the entire rpm range had no effect on cylinders 2 & 3.
Ran mainly on cylinder 1. After a few minutes the exhaust manifold was hot on #1 only.

Did yet another sparks out test on cylinders 2 & 3. Still good.

You probably know this, but plugs will sometimes fire fine in the air, but not under compression. When I was in auto mechanics in school they had a machine that would put plugs under pressure to test spark.

 

[TURBO200R4]

You probably know this, but plugs will sometimes fire fine in the air, but not under compression. When I was in auto mechanics in school they had a machine that would put plugs under pressure to test spark.

When i was young we had a little sand blaster for plugs and a machine to test the firing and about half of the plugs would not fire when put at 150 psi.
we are talking 200 psi on the rocket. so you have been told twice.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Going back to the 70's and snowmobiles, I found if you put a new plug in a wet fowled engine, and fouled the new plug, (before it had a layer of carbon on it) they were usually NEVER any good after that, even if you cleaned and heated them dry.