RESOLVED: 3 weeks troubleshooting, still stuck

I checked vacuum on each throttle body: All seem good, including the "suspects" #2 & 3! Needle oscillated wildly (as per your warning) but clearly shows good vacuum.
When measuring directly (not teed in) on the tubing feeding the MAP sensor, I'm down to practically atmospheric again.
Disconnected all hoses from the 3 into one fitting and measured vacuum on each body via its vacuum hose, good vacuum on all 3..
Pressurized the 3 into 1 fitting, no leak.
What witchcraft is at play here?

I have heard of the plastic connector Cracking and leaking.
If the hose is to soft then it might colaspe cutting off vacuum.
Map sensor could have cracked or broken.
I would buy a vacuum pump and put the whole system on the bench and start checking. Golf tees make good plugs 22 shells. I have surgical pliers to clamp off hoses also you can bend the hoses . Also you can blow air in them under water
Hth
 
I checked vacuum on each throttle body: All seem good, including the "suspects" #2 & 3! Needle oscillated wildly (as per your warning) but clearly shows good vacuum.
When measuring directly (not teed in) on the tubing feeding the MAP sensor, I'm down to practically atmospheric again.
Disconnected all hoses from the 3 into one fitting and measured vacuum on each body via its vacuum hose, good vacuum on all 3..
Pressurized the 3 into 1 fitting, no leak.
What witchcraft is at play here?
I replaced my vacuum lines with "vacuum hose" from an auto parts place. Went riding the next day and as day went on the bike was running worse and worse. Long story short the vacuum tubing I bought got soft when it got warm and started collapsing. Ended up trimming the ends of the original lines and putting them back on.
 
I checked vacuum on each throttle body: All seem good, including the "suspects" #2 & 3! Needle oscillated wildly (as per your warning) but clearly shows good vacuum.
When measuring directly (not teed in) on the tubing feeding the MAP sensor, I'm down to practically atmospheric again.
Disconnected all hoses from the 3 into one fitting and measured vacuum on each body via its vacuum hose, good vacuum on all 3..
Pressurized the 3 into 1 fitting, no leak.
What witchcraft is at play here?
If I was in this situation, I would be looking for another MAP sensor. You've done a very comprehensive job of troubleshooting. It could be just the worst coincidence imaginable that it picked this moment in time to fail.
 
I had the same issue with intermittent misfires. I chased gremlins all over the engine for several weeks.
Turned out that lightly snug spade connections on the coils is definitely not tight enough.
When the ECU detects a momentary open connection on a coil it shuts the coil's power until the engine is stopped and re started.
Drove me nuts. Got code for coil 3 changed it then next start got code for 2 and 3.
About this time I ran across several old posts about this issue.
Tightened coil 2 and e and still didn't run exactly right until I dug down and did coil#1 .
After I flattened the female connectors enough that they were hard to connect then all the engine issues suddenly dissapeared!
 
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I had the same issue with intermittent misfires. I chased gremlins all over the engine for several weeks.
Turned out that lightly snug spade connections is definitely not tight enough.
When the ECU detects a momentary open connection on a coil it shuts the coil's power until the engine is stopped and re started.
Drove me nuts. Got code for coil 3 changed it then next start got code for 2 and 3.
About that time I came across several older posts about the loose coil wire issue .
I flattened the female connectors enough that they were hard to connect and then all the engine issues suddenly dissapeared!
I went through that too. Re-crimping the low voltage leads on the coils took care of it. Good thought ! His coil wires likely got moved around taking the valve cover off.
 
I went through that too. Re-crimping the low voltage leads on the coils took care of it. Good thought ! His coil wires likely got moved around taking the valve cover off.
I've had that problem too - after all the diagnostics, such a simple fix. On another occasion when it was running like crap, it turned out to be a dirty crankshaft position sensor. It took ages to find, but again - such a simple fix.
 
I had the same issue with intermittent misfires. I chased gremlins all over the engine for several weeks.
Turned out that lightly snug spade connections on the coils is definitely not tight enough.
When the ECU detects a momentary open connection on a coil it shuts the coil's power until the engine is stopped and re started.
Drove me nuts. Got code for coil 3 changed it then next start got code for 2 and 3.
About this time I ran across several old posts about this issue.
Tightened coil 2 and e and still didn't run exactly right until I dug down and did coil#1 .
After I flattened the female connectors enough that they were hard to connect then all the engine issues suddenly dissapeared!
Good advice, known culprits those cheap spade connectors. My oe connectors are long gone and replaced with proper ones. No bad connection there anymore.
 
Was the engine running fine.before you changed the cam chain.Could you be one tooth out on the cam timing. Did you use the triumph tool to hold the cams .The slack in the chain needs to be taken up on the none tensioner side with the crank sprocket or it can be out .
Timing is 100% correct. Been down that path already.
 
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