RESOLVED: 3 weeks troubleshooting, still stuck

[Valaas]

Ok. I hope you're planning on replacing one part at a time, so we can understand what solves the problem.

Starting with the 3-1 and tube from it to the MAP sensor is what I'd do, given that seemed to be where you narrowed it down to

Yes, will do. I really hope to be able to isolate the problem and obtain a reusable, closed symptom - root cause - solution loop
Hopefully someone can benefit later.

 

[Dr.D]

Still waiting for the answer.

 

[Valaas]

Parts finally arrived yesterday. It took the Norwegian postal "service" 7 days to move the package 8500 meters from the terminal to me.
Poor horse head availability stops me from placing one in the post director's bed.

Fitted new transition pieces with new o-rings, new upper and lower injector o-rings, 4 new rubber blinds, 3 new vacuum hoses from TB's to the 3-1 connector and a new vacuum hose from the 3-1 connector to the MAP sensor. All OE parts. Also reloaded stock map.
Result: Exactly as before. Vacuum readings 8-900 to atmospheric.
Measured manifold temps using IR gauge: Cyl1: 104, Cyl 2: 54, Cyl 3: 22 [degrees Celcius]
AFR reading: 27(!) - which is so lean that I doubt it's correct. The garage reaks of unburnt fuel.

Plan ahead:
Fit new MAP sensor.
If no improvement: Wait for vacuum gauge fitting to arrive, then measure vacuum with quality, glycol filled gauge.
If there still is positively near no vacuum at idle, I am lost.

Also plan to fit new sparks - of course.

 

[Journeyman]

Parts finally arrived yesterday. It took the Norwegian postal "service" 7 days to move the package 8500 meters from the terminal to me.
Poor horse head availability stops me from placing one in the post director's bed.

and I thought I was vindictive......

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Parts finally arrived yesterday. It took the Norwegian postal "service" 7 days to move the package 8500 meters from the terminal to me.
Poor horse head availability stops me from placing one in the post director's bed.

Fitted new transition pieces with new o-rings, new upper and lower injector o-rings, 4 new rubber blinds, 3 new vacuum hoses from TB's to the 3-1 connector and a new vacuum hose from the 3-1 connector to the MAP sensor. All OE parts. Also reloaded stock map.
Result: Exactly as before. Vacuum readings 8-900 to atmospheric.
Measured manifold temps using IR gauge: Cyl1: 104, Cyl 2: 54, Cyl 3: 22 [degrees Celcius]
AFR reading: 27(!) - which is so lean that I doubt it's correct. The garage reaks of unburnt fuel.

Plan ahead:
Fit new MAP sensor.
If no improvement: Wait for vacuum gauge fitting to arrive, then measure vacuum with quality, glycol filled gauge.
If there still is positively near no vacuum at idle, I am lost.

Also plan to fit new sparks - of course.

And no 3-1 piece?

Another thought - have you checked fuel pressure?

 

[TURBO200R4]

a 12 volt test light with 5 ohms resistance will ground out the coils. but a 12 volt test light with 30 ohms resistance will blink when ecu grounds the coils.
u need a vacuum pump so u can read the map values on the tuneecu. you can also pump the map sensor to 18 inches to check when trying to start.
if it was mine (not advising you to do this use your own judgement) i would pull a plug in each cylinder and short the fuel pump at relay and watch for a cylinder to flood over. maybe cut long thin strips of thin card board to put in holes to check for gas.
you could also pull the rail and place over a bucket that would be the correct way or take injectors to be checked.

 

[stingray]

Without the proper X fitting, I'd think you need the MAP tubing closer to the first T fitting. The vacuum signal has been lost. If I'm reading the posts right.

Move the MAP sensor to another T closer to the first. It's too far away.

 

[Valaas]

And no 3-1 piece?

Another thought - have you checked fuel pressure?

Ordrered OE 4way connector and in parallel a garden micro drip 4-way connector. Will fit whichever comes first.
Fuel pressure OK. 43 psi when primed, slowly drops to 41, then 43 steady on idle.

 

[Valaas]

Without the proper X fitting, I'd think you need the MAP tubing closer to the first T fitting. The vacuum signal has been lost. If I'm reading the posts right.

Move the MAP sensor to another T closer to the first. It's too far away.

I believe you refer to a picture of a very temporary test setup where I used 3 tees. in the absence of a proper aftermarket 4 way/x. That was just a test to see if the 4-way connector was leaking.

 

[Valaas]

a 12 volt test light with 5 ohms resistance will ground out the coils. but a 12 volt test light with 30 ohms resistance will blink when ecu grounds the coils.
u need a vacuum pump so u can read the map values on the tuneecu. you can also pump the map sensor to 18 inches to check when trying to start.
if it was mine (not advising you to do this use your own judgement) i would pull a plug in each cylinder and short the fuel pump at relay and watch for a cylinder to flood over. maybe cut long thin strips of thin card board to put in holes to check for gas.
you could also pull the rail and place over a bucket that would be the correct way or take injectors to be checked.

I have done the fuel rail over bucket and crank test. All injectors gave a good and seemingly even spray pattern in turn as I cranked. I have also managed to measure vacuum going into the MAP sensor reliable. The MAP readings are correct, close to atmospheric. However unlikely it seems that the 4-way connector is leaking. Dont know how, but the connector must react differently to being pressurized (positively no leakage. I have tested it submerged) and being under bursts of vacuum.