YES INDEED - Lush "street cams" fit with real life

[sonny]

Lucked out big time. Had the shims to replace the ones requiring replacement. Should place it around 11MM to 12MM all the way down on the intake side. Real happy about that. Cam ladder looks good especially after 50,000 miles. Cam chain tensioner looking good. Camshaft sprockets Look brand new no wear at all. Just to let you all know if anybody needs a set of stock cams they are yours. Just pay postage. Shined a light down inside and Cam guides are good no need to replace. Just one happy camper all the way around. Torn into Harley engines with the same mileage and found all kinds of problem. Cam chain shot to Shi%. Stretched way out of tolerance. Real glad i followed the man in the tin sheds advice. If i stuck with the original cam chain would have lost all the low end torque. No way would you ever get it set right with a that much stretch. Now here is the trick. A few on here have had problems getting the cam ladder off without screwing up the bolts that hold it in. Notice picture and cams are in the same position. Very lightly loosen bolts starting from the center. Then go back to center and loosen again working your way out. Took three times around. Time consuming yes but bolts have no wear or tear from removing. Follow the manual on this and your good. No need to align any marks yet. Simple and easy to do. Gee mom no cams. Small screwdriver works rather well pulling out old shims from buckets by the way. Real small screwdriver. Slow and easy. No foot race at all.

 

[Ishrub]

Lucked out big time. Had the shims to replace the ones requiring replacement. Should place it around 11MM to 12MM all the way down on the intake side. Real happy about that. Cam ladder looks good especially after 50,000 miles. Cam chain tensioner looking good. Camshaft sprockets Look brand new no wear at all. Just to let you all know if anybody needs a set of stock cams they are yours. Just pay postage. Shined a light down inside and Cam guides are good no need to replace. Just one happy camper all the way around. Torn into Harley engines with the same mileage and found all kinds of problem. Cam chain shot to Shi%. Stretched way out of tolerance. Real glad i followed the man in the tin sheds advice. If i stuck with the original cam chain would have lost all the low end torque. No way would you ever get it set right with a that much stretch. Now here is the trick. A few on here have had problems getting the cam ladder off without screwing up the bolts that hold it in. Notice picture and cams are in the same position. Very lightly loosen bolts starting from the center. Then go back to center and loosen again working your way out. Took three times around. Time consuming yes but bolts have no wear or tear from removing. Follow the manual on this and your good. No need to align any marks yet. Simple and easy to do. Gee mom no cams. Small screwdriver works rather well pulling out old shims from buckets by the way. Real small screwdriver. Slow and easy. No foot race at all.

I am enjoying this thread but am no mechanic at all and may have read this all wrong but why would you measure your shims before you install the custom cams with a different lobe grind? Won't it require shimming adjustment check again once the new cams are in?

I just re-read and found this "Since the new cams are a simple drop and go valve clearance will be the same as stock cams" I obviously know even less than I thought.

Wait, here I found a re-fresher Shim valve cam diagram and explanation for us non-mechanics to refesh.

Ours' stock being DOHC with over bucket shims.

What are the various kinds of tappets / lifters and the advantages / disadvantages of each

DOHC valvetrains give the highest performance of conventional setups, and have the lowest inertia and so highest rev range, but they are somewhat more difficult to service due to the fact you need to keep the timing of the two camshafts in sync as well as each camshaft to the crankshaft timing. Not only that, the valve clearances on a SOHC can usually be adjusted by turning adjuster screws on the rocker arms, where on DOHC valvetrains you need to replace shims on the tappets to adjust valve clearance, which usually involves removing the camshaft(s).

Now for tappets, you'll see shim-over-bucket, shim-under-bucket, hemispherical, and desmodromic (pretty much Ducati engines only, but very cool).

Shim-over-bucket has a spacer shim on top of the tappet that is the contact piece for the camshaft or rocker arm, but this picture illustrates one of the downsides of this setup:

At high speeds in DOHC configurations, it is possible for the swiping of the cam lobe across the shim to cause it to pop out of its slot and cause damage to the valvetrain.

This problem is solved by shim-under-bucket tappets, which are similar but the shim is under the bucket (hence the name):

Also seen here:



There isn't a downside to using these as opposed to shim-over-bucket, except for the fact that shims can sometimes be removed from shim-over-bucket tappets without removing the camshaft, which makes service easier.

 

[sonny]

Nope. That is exactly what i thought. Stock cams and street cams are close enough to were it don't matter. I would check My adjustments again after installation anyhow either be the same cams or not. Not very good with math and sometimes it don't matter if your are or not. Not a perfect world. After the fact it does not hurt to double check. Beats the hell out off sucking a valve

 

[Ishrub]

Lucky I am not @Nat67 , he may now get a gift voucher next birthday from @Nat69's girl for his local hardware store to buy 16 plastic buckets for his next 'Bucket under shim upgrade".

Don't worry Nat you can take them back for a galvanised metal upgrade with 'roller rockers"!

 

[sonny]

All that is nice and neat. What matters is the feel of the gauge. You don't understand that your screwed. I seat my **** a bit low because i hate unnecessary noise coming from the valve train. It is all about the drag as you place the proper gauge and do guess work on the clearance. To loose and you have noise that sounds like ****. To tight and you suck a valve. Considering this is my second valve clearance check at 50,000 miles must be doing something right. Did own a 2005 Bonneville that when we traded her in for the Harley (bad Mistake) had over 150,000 mile on her and did all the Valve clearance and adjustments myself. Never had a issue or stupid ass unnecessary noise or a sucked valve. NOT MY FIRST RODEO. Check twice and ride.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Lucky I am not @Nat67 , he may now get a gift voucher next birthday from @Nat69's girl for his local hardware store to buy 16 plastic buckets for his next 'Bucket under shim upgrade".

Don't worry Nat you can take them back for a galvanised metal upgrade with 'roller rockers"!

...nearly wet myself!!!

 

[Nat67]

Lucky I am not @Nat67 , he may now get a gift voucher next birthday from @Nat69's girl for his local hardware store to buy 16 plastic buckets for his next 'Bucket under shim upgrade".

Don't worry Nat you can take them back for a galvanised metal upgrade with 'roller rockers"!

What time is the valve train ?

 

[Mad Dog]

Halfway there Sonny, looking good. What else could be done while you’re in there?
My cams got here this weekend, they look great! Let the fun begin.

 

[hoopla]

Did I read this correctly, you have your old cams, no exchange involved? When I did the cams on my Bonnie, they required a deposit until I sent them my cams, then I was issued a credit.

BTW, thanks for doing a great job on the process to date.

Hoopla

 

[warp9.9]

Did I read this correctly, you have your old cams, no exchange involved? When I did the cams on my Bonnie, they required a deposit until I sent them my cams, then I was issued a credit.

BTW, thanks for doing a great job on the process to date.

Hoopla

Nevs cams are not welded stock cams they are manufactured cams. If you were to get a Carpenter kit the cams are welded and reground by MegaCycle Cams in California.