Well, the day started out $hitty

The Classic is nice, but without knowing the skill level of the person who repaired that trans I'm leary of it.

What did you think of the picture of my stator ? For all I know they all look like that once they have some miles on them ?
I cannot say here's the extra one out of a 06 motor discolored but tested ok.
P1260040.JPG


I would wait for Ken to answer up since he has already been summoned :) That and well I am not much on electronics :D
 
@DEcosse posted a treatise a while back about how the design of the Triumph system has the stator working at maximum output continuously, and by changing out the rectifier/regulator to a series model, the stator only works as needed. If you make the decision to go forward, and you have the engine open anyway, you could replace the stator, and if doing so, I would recommend going with the series R/R (plug and play, though the location may need adjustment).

Again going back to the sixties, my 69' Kawasaki 500 triple uses an excited field alternator for the same reason. I stand by my belief that "new" isn't always "improved".
 
More than "belief" friend, you have the power of observation, retention, and highly useful organization.

Have to love the data, that enable data-driven decisions.
 
I cannot say here's the extra one out of a 06 motor discolored but tested ok.
P1260040.JPG


I would wait for Ken to answer up since he has already been summoned :) That and well I am not much on electronics :D


Weird melted resin on one side only on this very clean looking one - going real cheap too Fred - US$40.

TRIUMPH 2005 ROCKET STATOR COIL | eBay

THESE PARTS WERE TAKEN FROM THIS COMPLETE BUT NON-RUNNING 2005 ROCKET III IN THE PICTURE. NO PARTS WERE TESTED UNDER RUNNING CONDITIONS.

HAS FLEXIBLE WIRES, GOOD CONNECTORS & TIGHT WINDINGS.

NO CRACKS OR BREAKS.
 
Both of those stator pics (on this page) look good.

It is quite 'normal' for even the pics of the one with some darker coloured resin - that happens because it is running extremely hot and those particular windings just see less oil cooling than those who do not darken.
(ALL of the windings see exact same current, so it is absolutely a function of the cooling that affects some vs the others)
I can tell you quite categorically that a bad stator will be a LOT more obviously burned, not simply discoloured!

* The other place a potential short can happen is at the clamp

The very simple acid-test for stator is just to measure resistance from ANY ONE of the three terminals to the core of the stator - or if still installed in the bike, simply to engine ground.
If it is short (zero ohms), the winding has burned through and needs to be replaced.
If that reading is 'open' (infinite) then it is 'good'
 
... Also don't much like the appearance of the stator. Never had a charging problem but can't explain it's appearance.

Link Removed

Don't see much wrong with this one either - a bit darker but still nothing obviously burned.
Do the Isolation test described above to confirm but I'm betting is just fine.
 
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