Turbo upgrade - "Budget" no longer applicable

[Valaas]

You could get away with one OEM battery if you double up the starter cables and pop a 1.4kW Toyota starter on it.
Save the space for other stuff?

Very good advice. But living in Norway made me fit a Toyota 1.4 kW starter, adding an extra set of high capacity cables plus an extra starter relay (OE relay as trigger) long ago. But still found 2 batteries necessary for comfort. The 640 cca Motobatt ones on the picture are fresh replacements for 2 that wore out in just 4 years.
That said, I just had the beast starting instantly in 0 deg C

 

[Mike188]

Welcome from South Australia.

 

[Valaas]

Welcome from South Australia.

Thanks Mike, appreciated.

 

[Valaas]

Progress. Slow, but progress.

 

[Valaas]

Figured out and tested second (boost)

map sensor and where to piggyback

 

[Valaas]

Started Frankenstein tonight! Ran very rough and wouldn't idle of course, still being on stock map. But very satisfying hearing the turbo whistle for the first time.
I bet if it weren't for the 650cc injectors it would have at least idled and left a lesser dense fog of uncombusted fuel.

Speaking of AFR: After some very enlightening, but sobering research, I'm starting to abandon the idea of relying on AT. Consequently I braced myself and contacted a Dynojet authorized workshop for a quote. I'm guessing it won't be cheap. But as indicated in the revised thread heading I have learnt that the phrases "budget" and "DIY RIII turbo" does not belong in the same sentence.

The forged pistons won't be in my posession for another 4-5 weeks. I suppose it is a bad idea to do the bench tuning prior to fitting the forged pistons?
Cheers

 

[Valaas]

Update: Changed the entire F-tables by 1 - ("stock injector cc/new injector cc (350/650)) and zeroed the F/L switch table
I know injector cc vs F table value is not a linear correlation, but worth a try.
It started easily and idled very well! Gave some throttle 2-3 krpm, no popping or bad beaviour at all.
Ran rich with AFR around 10, but I can certainly get AT to get idling and low rpm AFR OK.
Might reduce the 1400 USD quote from the Dynojet workshop at least.
Happy days!

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

The forged pistons won't be in my posession for another 4-5 weeks. I suppose it is a bad idea to do the bench tuning prior to fitting the forged pistons?
Cheers

I would say it's a good idea. When you fit the new pistons you'll have to break the engine in, and having a ballpark map ready to go will allow you break in properly.
Otherwise you've to tune and break in same time which is an extraordinary feat.

 

[Neville Lush]

Do you have a power commander five? If so you could purchase an auto tune module and tune it twice. Use the auto tune to create a base map with NO boost. Lock the gate open. Ride and map etc, then when done apply boost and AT the boost sensitive tables
Maybe a PM?

 

[Neville Lush]

Do you have a power commander five? If so you could purchase an auto tune module and tune it twice. Use the auto tune to create a base map with NO boost. Lock the gate open. Ride and map etc, then when done apply boost and AT the boost sensitive tables
Maybe a PM?

Just realised that when you put AT it's probably auto tune. So you could do the above, you will have to alter ignition of course with boost.