Turbo Kits currently available?

@Claviger . Not to be a PITA but would you mind sketching it all out? I know there is nothing simple or cheap here but what is the safest amount of boost on a stock motor? I'd like to see some improvement without having to change the internals at first. Do they make forged 8.5:1 pistons? I thought a low CR was better for forced induction since it gives you a larger area to stuff fuel and air into.
 
Ah the old compression for boosted motors discussion :)

For maximum effort max power builds using the biggest turbo the motor can spool low comp is great. It allows huge boost pressure and accompanying huge power. It will be peaky, slow to spool, and lazy when off boost. It will give a low potential for detonation and a wide tuning margin.

Conversely raising compression will liven up the motor and spool turbos faster. It will make more hp per pound of boost also. The ultimate max effort output will be lower though, because you’ll end up fighting detonation and can’t back timing off enough to compensate for the dynamic compression that will result. The margin for error is smaller, so you need to ensure you get good gas and keep timing conservative!

Those are generalities that are almost always right, fringe cases will of course prove them wrong.

For a street driven vehicle with the cylinder heads like the R3 pushing moderate boost (7-20 psi) in a properly sized turbo, 10:1 or 10.5:1 is fine. It will give good throttle response, rapid spooling, high MPG, and can be tamed with a boost dependent ignition retard.

So for example, you run 30 degrees timing at 100% throttle at 6500 rpm, then the device pulls a preset amount of timing for each pound of boost, so say it’s 14PSI and you have it set to pull 1 degree per PSI your timing would fall from 30 to 16. PC-V can do this.

This way, you’ll have aggressive timing off boost for mileage and fee of throttle and good part throttle power, but safe timing on boost.

Lots of factory turbo vehicles are running over 10:1 comp these days... like my mini. 10.5:1, stock overboost is 14 PSI when activated, but there are a ton running around in the wild at 18-20 psi safely on 92 octane. They do it for emissions mostly but it’s beneficial to tuners that want snappy responsive vehicles, not turbo dogs that take 3-5 second to spool (think 2JZ with 76mm pushing 900 hp).

The biggest benefit to aftermarket pistons will be the ring lands. They’ll be both thicker and better designed to accommodate the extra pressure in the cylinders.

In my own personal experience my car was 11:1 compression pushing 26PSI on a medium sized turbo using 91 octane CA swill gas. Crazy good throttle response, **** good mileage too. When I fed her E-85 the seas parted and oooh boy power!!

From everything I can find, the stock pistons will be fine to at least 265whp IF you keep detonation in check.

I can’t imagine most people want to go with something like a GT3076R turbo and push 30PSI and 400whp on their rocket.
 
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that. It sounds like carpenter is the way to go and then add the Turbo. The whole boost is good idea may work for me but I have a hard time putting 10k into something that obviously didn't cost half that much to make. I also don't like the idea of having the air filter under the bike. Thanks again
 
To be honest if you plan on boosting from the get go, and don’t have your heart dead set on Turboing, I’d suggest TTS stage 3 + their new exhaust. It’ll still clear 300hp easily and it all comes in a pre-sorted out kit for you.

Or start with stage 2, and go from there. You may find it’s enough power for you. At 190 it took me a good month to get comfortable really flogging my bike, I’m honestly not sure I want more than what I have now on the R3R, I’ve still not had a dry day to go stretch her legs properly.

I don’t recall the guys name at TTS, but he’s the real deal, I immediately went all tech nerd in our conversation and it didn’t phase him at all, kept right up and we had a very good chat, if my R3R ever gets boost it’ll be TTS.
 
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I did also just now find a nice coincidence.

Vortech FMU. It’s a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It works by adding x psi to fuel pressure per pound of boost. They offer many ratios.

Coincidentally our injectors are 37.7 lb injectors at stock pressure and 100% duty cycle.

Now, use a 7:1 ratio FMU and 7 PSI. You end up with 92.7 PSI fuel pressure, which makes the stock injectors now flow 55 lb.

Why is this convenient? Keeps you from needing new injectors, instead you can just swap out FMU internals to lower the rate of gain as you raise boost. At 55lb they support up to around 375crank hp. Use a Walbro 255 and the high fuel pressure is no problem.

You definitely want a different method than the stupid clamps to hold the fuel hose to the rail though.
 
Cool, in that case I definitely say do a 7 PSI build now, when you’re ready for more so pistons and a Neville Lush intake cam and pump up the boost.

Most of the cam derived gains are from the intake side, more so when going turbo.
 
Cool, in that case I definitely say do a 7 PSI build now, when you’re ready for more so pistons and a Neville Lush intake cam and pump up the boost.

Most of the cam derived gains are from the intake side, more so when going turbo.
Hate to change the subject but what are you racing in your avatar and who won?
 
Which turbo would you recomend, wastegate, ect...

The GT2560R or GT2860R match the R3 really well and have enough extra capacity to make 300-350 whp respectively. They’re internally gated.

ATP Turbo is where I’ll be buying mine, something like $900 bucks.

Intercooler, I will only buy from treadstone because of past experience, they offer the best quality intercooler a for reasonable prices. Going cheaper will result in garbage quality, going more expensive is just buying a brand name. Just my opinion but I have bought twice from them both times with good results.

For PC-V parts, I usually use rockymountainatv, hard to beat their prices.

Blow off valve... something quality and fast acting.

Boost control, start with a manual controller, like the grimspeed one.

All in, if you’re building the manifold and pipes yourself it’s probably less than $2200 in parts/materials.
 
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