Turbo Kits currently available?

[BigNorm]

I ran the first Megasquirt and spark ever in the US as a prototype tester on my turbo car back in... uh I think it was 2003 I first put it in. Made great power and got crazy good gas mileage, 390hp and almost 50mpg cruising at 80mph from a 2.0 DOHC 1999 Neon R/T. Take that hybrids!!

It’s very very easy to setup, and the crank trigger for the R3 is already programmed into the standard software, there’s like 50 triggers to choose from. The other sensors are easy, GM coolant temp, has its own MAP, and will accept VSS and gear position from stock sensors. The biggest “squirt” challenge on the R3 will be getting the stock gauges to function...

I’m trying to avoid going “full retard” so to speak. I think it was Trirocket3 who went all in on a turbo build and ended up with way too much power.

@BigNorm funny I have the opposite issue, I find the engine management part to be the easiest lol. What I was thinking though, is a second oil loop using an electric pump for the turbo. Keep that scorched oil out of my clutch please . If done in such a manner it should extend the life of both the engine oil and turbo.

This project is going to be a long one, not even considering really starting wrenching until next winter when I go look for a 2014+ touring with low miles for sale.

I'm happy to be a passenger on this voyage and learn what I can. I usually go full retard when I design my projects and then get realistic when I realize I need to make it affordable to make it a reality.

 

[Speedy]

One of the stock TB's will give you 280hp. Mount it at the entry to the plenum and use that injector for some enrichment. Idle control and throttle position sensors are then stock, as can be the cables, etc.

I would look really hard at using the oil scavenging pump to circulate all engine oil through a cooler and then to the sump tank. With a water cooled turbo housing and oil cooler the oil temps will stay under control. This would be more reliable and simpler than an auxiliary oil pump, filter, tank, lines and electrics. With TB's out of the way, there is room to raise the stock oil tank some to accomplish the task.

As to the air/water intercooler, perhaps at the bottom of the stock air box with an electric fan blowing through downward. Some louvers could be added to the box, and side covers if needed, and the air then exits between bottom of rear fender and swing arm. Hidden and hot air flows would be away from you.

A rising rate fuel pressure regulator would allow using stock injectors and the fourth injector could provide any extra flow beyond that.

High pressure water injection (900 to 1,100 psi, or higher if you can source the parts) offers very effective detonation control and lets you control the water injection rate really well. Overall you will use less water than with low pressure systems. Water reservoir and pump could be in the air box as well.

So many suggestions. Take them as they are meant: just ideas.

 

[Claviger]

Absolutely, all good ideas. I have a meth injection kit actually on my mini, it does indeed work wonders. Intake temps are usually ambient +1-5f, which is pretty incredible for a small KO3 pushing 16 PSI. Not sure if they’re is room for a quality kit on the R3. I suppose I could mount the tank and pump in the bags though and keep it hidden and dry.

I like the idea of radiator for the intercooler under there, will investigate more.

As far as the single TB, I love the idea, but I will probably stick with the ITBs, for simplicity, though I think the single is definitely a superior solution in all regards.

I do appreciate all your thoughts!

 

[BigNorm]

How do you make it all work though. So far it sounds like a custom intake to adapt one TB. Custom exhaust to mount the turbo. I was wondering how the exhaust could be built to support the weight of the turbo. I would love if someone would make a sketch of how the single TB fits into the custom manifold. The paper build is one of my favorite parts of a build, mainly because I can afford paper.

 

[Speedy]

Fabricating an intake manifold is no more difficult than fabricating a manifold to go from the intercooler discharge and into the three stock TB. The stock TB boot could clamp around the individual runners coming from the manifold. Separate the three TB and use the former front one only. A silicone hose connector clamping to the TB body (where the stock boot clamped) and the tube coming from the intercooler holds it in place. A bracket to a manifold boss/stud could stabilize it and resist cable and fuel line tension.

The exhaust manifold are generally fabricated from heavy gauge SS or titanium tubing. With good mounting flanges at the head and for the turbo housing, supporting the turbo is not a problem.

I do not suggest that these are easily done in someone's garage using a hacksaw, hand drill, el cheapo flux wire welder and a hand grinder. But for a craftsman fabricator with pretty basic tools, these parts are not difficult to make.

The difficult part of a project like this is that there are multiple new or fabricated parts that are not practical to test and debug/optimize alone. Therefore, everything has to be assembled and then run for the first time as a unit. Multiple performance, leak, or tuning issues can make it very difficult to determine root causes. So making everything fit right, and insuring that each part can be expected to perform well, prior to final assembly and first run is imperative. A good plan, well designed parts, and good mechanic skills gets you to the first run. Then debugging and tuning optimize from there.

 

[BigNorm]

It would be nice to have a separate bike to work this project out on.

When i was looking at turbo kits for the road glide that I had before my r3 I noticed that my favorite kit had an air chamber right before the TB. They made this look like the stock air filter housing. I was thinking a chamber may be made to look like the bear claw.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Seriously considering Turbo Charging my 2006 Standard 3 pipe. I like the idea of the stealth look but will consider other options.

How about a post with the links to all the manufacturers/options that you guys know about.

 

[Claviger]

Fabricating an intake manifold is no more difficult than fabricating a manifold to go from the intercooler discharge and into the three stock TB. The stock TB boot could clamp around the individual runners coming from the manifold. Separate the three TB and use the former front one only. A silicone hose connector clamping to the TB body (where the stock boot clamped) and the tube coming from the intercooler holds it in place. A bracket to a manifold boss/stud could stabilize it and resist cable and fuel line tension.

The exhaust manifold are generally fabricated from heavy gauge SS or titanium tubing. With good mounting flanges at the head and for the turbo housing, supporting the turbo is not a problem.

I do not suggest that these are easily done in someone's garage using a hacksaw, hand drill, el cheapo flux wire welder and a hand grinder. But for a craftsman fabricator with pretty basic tools, these parts are not difficult to make.

The difficult part of a project like this is that there are multiple new or fabricated parts that are not practical to test and debug/optimize alone. Therefore, everything has to be assembled and then run for the first time as a unit. Multiple performance, leak, or tuning issues can make it very difficult to determine root causes. So making everything fit right, and insuring that each part can be expected to perform well, prior to final assembly and first run is imperative. A good plan, well designed parts, and good mechanic skills gets you to the first run. Then debugging and tuning optimize from there.

Well said. That's really the challenge of initial testing, isolating what is doing things you didn't intend!! It can be quite difficult when your first installing an untested setup.

@Idaho Red Rocket 3 The site I previously saw the boostisgood setup is gone. I actually haven't seen anywhere to order that kit lately, billet charger's website is.... sketchy, at best. Mark in Aus, who has the video on youtube will only do bikes in shop, so that's a no go. Without ABS I would recommend the boost is good kit on low boost as long as it doesn't use an aerocharger, it's all hidden and looks great when installed.

@BigNorm That is exactly my intent, this will be an R3T stable mate to my R3R. I'm pretty settled on how I'm going to do this now. GT2860RS mounted to a very short runner manifold mounting the turbo centered between cylinder 1 and 2 longitudinally and as high as I can get it while maintaining 3" air gap between the turbo and fuel tank. Scavenge pump draining into the oil tank on the intake side, turbo cooling fed by an oil filter sandwich adapter. Tubular intake like on the TTS kits fed by an air to air, relatively small intercooler, mounted below the Radiator. Stock TBs, Stock Injectors, Walbro 255LPH, boost referenced external fuel pressure regulator and control it all with PC-V + AT + PC MAP sensor. Hook the stock MAP sensor into the turbo intake side so it never sees boost and the intake air temp sensor into the boost pipe right before the TBs. Crank case breathing will be accomplished with a self draining baffled can connected to the turbo inlet to provide constant vacuum. Simple and easy, not going crazy with this project. Should still easily crack 250 whp and do it with headroom on the fueling because of the referenced regulator.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Thanks Rob, I read over Billet Chargers website and sent them a contact message. What is wrong with the aerocharger ?

 

[Claviger]

Aerocharger, fantastic technology, terrible implementation. The failure rate is extreme, just google aerocharger broken or fail or leaking. There is no shortage of people with issues.

I suspect it’s down to QC from component manufacturers, there seems to be a wide array of problems with them.

It’s a **** shame because the variable geometry is a massive step forward in turbo tech simply haven’t been widely accepted yet.

A variable Vane turbo sized properly will give more low end power than a Roots blower and more top end power than a centrifugal blower while having much better throttle response than a standard fixed geometry turbo.