Starter upgrade issues

[Ygransom]

no alarm on the bike

My 08 Touring had a no start problem. It doesn't ian alarm but does have the wiring and a blanking plug that was the problem. Someone who is a lot better with auto electric than me solved it so can't give you any more information

 

[JeffR3Colorado]

Ok, here is were I am at....
New Battery with 12.4 V
New Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition
New starter 30 amp fuse
New Starter/solenoid
New Starter Relay (from local auto parts store, Not OEM) original relay clicks when I push the starter button, new relay does not click at all (may not be compatible)

Still not starting!

Tests I ran today....
I ran a jumper wire from the Solenoid to the + side of the battery. The bike fired up and purred like a kitten! (good)
Starter Button is sending 11.95 V to the starter relay post #86 (OK)
relay post #87 goes to the starter solenoid with .1 ohms (good)
relay post #30 1.5 ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
relay post #85 42K ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
relay post #87a 1.3M ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
Clutch Safety Switch 1.6M olms at rest and .1 ohms pulled in (good)
Kickstand switch O.L. to .1 ohms (good)
Neutral safety switch (light works) O.L. in neutral and 2 ohms to ground in 1st gear (good)

Does any of these numbers seem off? What else do I need to look for?

I also attempted to jump from relay post #86 to the starter solenoid, I hit the starter button and popped a fuse. In addition to that, I just noticed that my headlights are not on. I jumped the bike battery to solenoid and had it idling and no headlights (fuses are all good). This may be an issue with Guard Dawgs unit.

 

[r3badboy]

Ok, here is were I am at....
New Battery with 12.4 V
New Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition
New starter 30 amp fuse
New Starter/solenoid
New Starter Relay (from local auto parts store, Not OEM) original relay clicks when I push the starter button, new relay does not click at all (may not be compatible)

Still not starting!

Tests I ran today....
I ran a jumper wire from the Solenoid to the + side of the battery. The bike fired up and purred like a kitten! (good)
Starter Button is sending 11.95 V to the starter relay post #86 (OK)
relay post #87 goes to the starter solenoid with .1 ohms (good)
relay post #30 1.5 ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
relay post #85 42K ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
relay post #87a 1.3M ohms to ground (not sure what this means)
Clutch Safety Switch 1.6M olms at rest and .1 ohms pulled in (good)
Kickstand switch O.L. to .1 ohms (good)
Neutral safety switch (light works) O.L. in neutral and 2 ohms to ground in 1st gear (good)

Does any of these numbers seem off? What else do I need to look for?

Sounds like a crook lead from battery to solenoid if you jumped it...or the battery is just not up to scratch. Try jumping off anther battery ie car battery...

 

[TURBO200R4]

Congratulations i think that you have checked everything except what you should have checked.
Now you have posted enough info form to tell you what is wrong.
Your positive wire going to relay terminal number 30 does not have 12 volts so the lights/starter will not work.
Being that i don't have the bike i can not pin point the exact area of the prob.
I would advise to run a 12 gauge wire from battery with 20 amp fuse to number 30 on starter relay then your problems will be over.

 

[TURBO200R4]

It has been a long time since i wired mine that way so i forgot that i had put my lights on relays.
So what I told you is only for checking purpose. Because the lights will run down the battery.

 

[JeffR3Colorado]

It has been a long time since i wired mine that way so i forgot that i had put my lights on relays.
So what I told you is only for checking purpose. Because the lights will run down the battery.

I have been looking over the wiring diagram. #30 post goes to my fuse box and then to the ignition switch. I put the Digital_guard_dawg ignition in it and so either they gave me an incorrect wire pigtail or their brain box is not working properly. I am reaching out to them on Monday.

 

[TURBO200R4]

The ignition switch has a habit of going bad because the headlights run through it that is the reason i put my lights on relays.
Sometimes the white/blue wire just melts the soddet and it fals off. Other times it just melts the switch.
Did you get the simple gard dawg or the one that has a bunch of wires with the no start relay?
Anyway you need to start checking voltages especially on both sides of that fuse.

 

[JeffR3Colorado]

The ignition switch has a habit of going bad because the headlights run through it that is the reason i put my lights on relays.
Sometimes the white/blue wire just melts the soddet and it fals off. Other times it just melts the switch.
Did you get the simple gard dawg or the one that has a bunch of wires with the no start relay?
Anyway you need to start checking voltages especially on both sides of that fuse.

I have made progress. Found a ground wire in the harness that was disconnected from the ignition plug. Reconnected that and I have lights and relay pole #30 is hot. It only has 11.5 V as I assume the light use up some charge, as they dim when i hit the button. And the relay is sending all 11.5 v to the starter solenoid. But it needs 12v, and 11.5 is not turning it over. I did upgrade the started to 1.7kw over the stock 1.3kw. My guess is I need to find a higher cranking battery (current one is brand new stock) or find a stock starter to put back into it or separate the light circuit from the starter circuit?

 

[JeffR3Colorado]

I have made progress. Found a ground wire in the harness that was disconnected from the ignition plug. Reconnected that and I have lights and relay pole #30 is hot. It only has 11.5 V as I assume the light use up some charge, as they dim when i hit the button. And the relay is sending all 11.5 v to the starter solenoid. But it needs 12v, and 11.5 is not turning it over. I did upgrade the started to 1.7kw over the stock 1.3kw. My guess is I need to find a higher cranking battery (current one is brand new stock) or find a stock starter to put back into it or separate the light circuit from the starter circuit?

My current battery is 310CCA. It appears I maybe able to find a 400cca or more with a lithium battery. I think that will get me up and running.

 

[Kevin frazier]

If i was to the point i thought a new battery or more juice would do the trick, i would jump it and check voltages and see whats up when it is running next