Rear Diff Drain Bolt

This is not the first time I've seen problems with M10*1.5 threads as drain bolts - Guzzis have them. If the bolt is good steel - the threads get stripped.

Amongst many solutions to this dilemma are

1) A decent insert in the aluminium made of steel.
2) A bolt with a SERIOUSLY undersized head. 10 (even 8) mm hex or 5 mm allen.
3) Nobody without a decent torque wrench should be allowed near them.
4) Don't ever change the oil. Wait until the seals wear and just keep topping up.
5) Fill with all the known additives you can find - and forget oil.
6) Steel/Iron rear diff' housing.
 
This is not the first time I've seen problems with M10*1.5 threads as drain bolts - Guzzis have them. If the bolt is good steel - the threads get stripped.

Amongst many solutions to this dilemma are

1) A decent insert in the aluminium made of steel.
2) A bolt with a SERIOUSLY undersized head. 10 (even 8) mm hex or 5 mm allen.
3) Nobody without a decent torque wrench should be allowed near them.
4) Don't ever change the oil. Wait until the seals wear and just keep topping up.
5) Fill with all the known additives you can find - and forget oil.
6) Steel/Iron rear diff' housing.

7. Pump the oil out of through the infill hole. I did this three times before finally get down to the business of extracting the stripped bolt.
 
Come on guys, anyone that strips a M10 course thread, even in an alloy housing, only has themselves to blame - and yes I have done it but a very long time ago.

That drain plug is different, even the slightest over torque and she's gone - no shame there.

St/St plugs are £10 + postage - if still interested, pm me, first four get 'em. I have a Paypal account.

..................... A Dowty seal washer would make life easier....................
Spot on, cant understand why Triumph don't use them, they're not that expensive.
 
Come on guys, anyone that strips a M10 course thread, even in an alloy housing, only has themselves to blame
Depends how many threads there are in the alloy.

As one has to moly grease the splines anyway - remove diff and drain through filler. Sorted.

I'll bet Triumph use crush washers - which encourages over tightening. Not to mention hardly anybody replaces them at the oil change.
 
I replaced mine this spring when I put on the new rear tire. Did all the things required while changing a tire and extracted the broken drain bolt and replaced it with a normal bolt that has a head that looks just like the fill bolt. Got it for 83 cents at Lowes. I change the gear lube every spring so I'm not worried about it not being magnetic.

Bill.
 
...................... I change the gear lube every spring so I'm not worried about it not being magnetic.

Bill.

Dont quite see your logic there, the magnet is to hold any ferrous particles away from the gears until the oil is changed - particles are generated constantly.

But if you're happy with it. :)
 
Come on guys, anyone that strips a M10 course thread, even in an alloy housing, only has themselves to blame - and yes I have done it but a very long time ago.

That drain plug is different, even the slightest over torque and she's gone - no shame there.

St/St plugs are £10 + postage - if still interested, pm me, first four get 'em. I have a Paypal account.


Spot on, cant understand why Triumph don't use them, they're not that expensive.
Thank you Very Much the Drain Plug/Bolts arrived today safe and sound, very nice looking and should be great, Thanks Again
 
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