Parasitic Drain, 2014 Rocket III Touring - Mystery: Multimeter shows zero draw with the key out

[benron_77]

Was there any conclusion on this. I am experiencing the same issue.
On 3rd battery now 1 month after getting bike.
Purchased bike. Original started fine after 7 days sitting. Rode to shops (12kms) and back. Next day dead.
Replaced with new AGM which had not enough charge to start bike off the shelf. Put it on trickle for a few hours and fired right up. Sat for 4 days ok. Then 6 days ok. Then 5 days ok. Then 5 days dead. Trickled for few hours fired up again. Sent to shop which believed it is accessory light draw which was removed. Confirmed no other parasitic draw. 2 days later dead again. Trickled and rode to batt store. Load tested batt and was not the best but still passed however replaced batt on warranty just in case.
Letting new batt sit for another 7 days...fingers crossed it starts this weekend.
If it does not looks like I have run out of ideas like OP of this thread. hence getting ready for what next$

 

[Freddie]

Same thing happens with mine, so I decided to disconnect battery every time than I think it would be more than a week stopped. Problem solved, but unconfortable workaround.

 

[Joesmoe]

FWIW, I've had my 2014 Touring since new, and even with @DEcosse system installed, never had a problem with battery staying up when I'm travelling about, and yes, my bikes stay on a maintenance charger whilst at home.

For normal batteries, they hold charge for a good while, *unless* something is causing a drain, and yes, these can be really challenging to find.

I really like the suggestion of removing fuses, until you narrow it down. And remember, it might not be the device, but a hidden short in an unnoticed rub or nick in the wiring harness.

Wish I were there to help. An extra pair of eyes or brain with a beer, can be a big help.

Good luck.

 

[Bigjaype]

Was there any conclusion on this. I am experiencing the same issue.
On 3rd battery now 1 month after getting bike.
Purchased bike. Original started fine after 7 days sitting. Rode to shops (12kms) and back. Next day dead.
Replaced with new AGM which had not enough charge to start bike off the shelf. Put it on trickle for a few hours and fired right up. Sat for 4 days ok. Then 6 days ok. Then 5 days ok. Then 5 days dead. Trickled for few hours fired up again. Sent to shop which believed it is accessory light draw which was removed. Confirmed no other parasitic draw. 2 days later dead again. Trickled and rode to batt store. Load tested batt and was not the best but still passed however replaced batt on warranty just in case.
Letting new batt sit for another 7 days...fingers crossed it starts this weekend.
If it does not looks like I have run out of ideas like OP of this thread. hence getting ready for what next$

I’d like to know more about the process in which no parasitic draw was concluded?
Unless you have the right equipment and procedure, it is impossible to do this. Not trying to be a smart arse here, but I have seen this before and there was in fact a parasitic draw, which on some vehicles is unavoidable. Understanding what this parasitic draw is compared to the capacity of the battery will provide clarity. Unfortunately, motorcycle batteries don’t have the same amp hour storage of car and truck batteries so after a week or more the battery could in fact not have enough left to start the engine. And that is why for every motorcycle and ride on mower I have owned, I keep them connected to a battery maintainer. Over the years I have settled on the NOCO products but there are many available.
On another note, generally speaking, the amount of current draw to start your vehicle once, will require approximately 5-10 miles of driving to recharge the battery back to the same level it was before cranking!
This is a generalisation, but you should get the gist of what Im implying!

 

[Tripps]

I didn't read the whole thread, but my 2010 Touring seems to have the same issue, and seems like a new thing. My original battery lasted 4 or 5 years, as did my second, a Motobatt. Now I'm on my third ( fifth overall) in the last couple years. Could be just bad luck, or maybe because I don't ride it enough anymore, I have other bikes that I like better, I guess.

 

[Gregger]

I've read the whole thread and hate it when one like this dies with no mention of a solution. Some excellent suggestions and responses from all. I can't find @Chullera in the system. Is he still a member?

If an ammeter is left in series in a circuit and measures 0 amps on multiple amp range settings, then there is no current flow period (at that time). If the battery is going dead, then the battery is draining internally and is defective. The one test that wasn't done was to charge the battery, then remove it and let it sit for a week, then check again. This would confirm a bad battery. Problems with reading an ammeter are common but Chullera seemed to know what he was doing with it. I've seen some ammeters give a false reading if they weren't in the proper current range for the suspected draw. Also, I've seen the fuses blow in the meter (as someone already mentioned) giving zero current indication causing all kinds of problems. @Kevin frazier showed us that you need to check for phantom draws at different times once the bike is shut off.

This post really begs for a conclusion or solution. @benron_77 did you purchase Chullera's bike?????

 

[cootertwo]

Yes, what happened ????

 

[Vector]

I always keep my bike on a battery tender. I find that I can leave with a full charge, and after riding the tender shows a red light, after riding! Then it takes a few hours on the battery tender to show a full charge. I thought it was the battery until I read this thread. Perhaps Triumph needs to be made aware of this.

 

[Bigjaype]

Perhaps it’s just the fact that we are expecting a motorcycle battery to serve an engine bigger than most cars’ engines?
I always thought this a little unbalanced.

 

[Vector]

Perhaps it’s just the fact that we are expecting a motorcycle battery to serve an engine bigger than most cars’ engines?
I always thought this a little unbalanced.

12V is all that is needed for much larger car engines. The battery provides power to the starter, ECU and alternator not the motor.