I put the Sylvania UltraStars in my 12' RTR. Supposed to be 40% brighter than stock. They made a noticeable difference.
Then I parked my bike next to Morris' 13' RTR with the Daymakers. My lights looked like old faded lenses were covering them compared to the Daymakers.
 
I found Rigid Industries; but. could not find a "SR-Hybrid Combo" or a catalog. I did find a 6 inch spot array of 6 lights that looks interesting.At 24 watts, I wonderif it would be too much with the two Daymakers on my Rocket. What sayest you?
6" SR-Series LED Light Bar | Rigid Industries LED Lighting | Excellence in Innovation - 90631 is the Combo version.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49953931/Rigid_Industries_Master_Catalog_5_2.pdf

Much depends on the current draw of the Daymakers. I find no tech spec's on HD's page. It confuses them I guess. :whitstling:
I'm going to take a WILD GUESS -1.5-2Amps DIP. 2-3Amps Main - EACH. This is about 4 amps less total than two 55/60W Halogen bulbs.

Given the Rigid 6" above bar draws 1.6Amps - I think you're pretty safe.

Look at the illustrations on page 6-ish of the catalogue - You'll see why I say the Hybrid and NOT the Specter series.

If 'twere me I'd look at the 10" - In fact I am.
Rigid Industries 10" SR-Series LED Light Bar | Spot | Flood | Combo | Diffused
Yes - more expensive but 2/3 more light. Still draws less than the 4 amps you're saving.

This leaves you margin to fit LED Fogs too - in fact if it were me I'd fit the fogs first. I'd say I ride more where I cant use long range (rigid-type) lights than where I can. Fogs/passing lamps I'd use more.
 
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Dont want to piss on anyones parade but those harley lights are all JWSpeaker lights. If i had known harley was going to start fitting them to their bikes then release them for $100 cheaper with their logo on it I would have waited.
Such is the disadvantage of being "leading edge".

The main disadvantage (and it's been mentioned in reviews) is the disparity between HD warranty and JW Speaker warranty.Also the OLD Harley 5&3/4" was not ECE certified. They've been very discrete about logo'ing. I'm impressed.

The REFLECTOR series Harley Lights I doubt are J.W.Speaker. They look more like Truck-Lite or PIAA. The "D" lens and projector lens lights - Yup I'm pretty sure they're made by Speaker.
 
6" SR-Series LED Light Bar | Rigid Industries LED Lighting | Excellence in Innovation - 90631 is the Combo version.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49953931/Rigid_Industries_Master_Catalog_5_2.pdf

Much depends on the current draw of the Daymakers. I find no tech spec's on HD's page. It confuses them I guess. :whitstling:
I'm going to take a WILD GUESS -1.5-2Amps DIP. 2-3Amps Main - EACH. This is about 4 amps less total than two 55/60W Halogen bulbs.

Given the Rigid 6" above bar draws 1.6Amps - I think you're pretty safe.

Look at the illustrations on page 6-ish of the catalogue - You'll see why I say the Hybrid and NOT the Specter series.

If 'twere me I'd look at the 10" - In fact I am.
Rigid Industries 10" SR-Series LED Light Bar | Spot | Flood | Combo | Diffused
Yes - more expensive but 2/3 more light. Still draws less than the 4 amps you're saving.

This leaves you margin to fit LED Fogs too - in fact if it were me I'd fit the fogs first. I'd say I ride more where I cant use long range (rigid-type) lights than where I can. Fogs/passing lamps I'd use more.


Thanks again for the great input of usable information and the catalog, which I have downloaded and saved.
I be liking those SR 10" Combo as well. They give nearly the same distances as the spot and more than the 6". More recognition distance = more time to perceive and react.
IMO the .25 and 1 lux distances are useless as at least 3 lux is needed for human recognition of a person or object at night. That 10" Combo puts out 10 lux at 80 meters & 1 lux at 254 meters and the 10" Spot 102 meters and 324 meters respectively. I would reckon the 3 lux parameter at about 215 meters for the combo and 274 meters for the spot. This difference is about 2 seconds at 60 mph and is considerable in the perception response of the rider. So, I'm thinking of the spot and let the Daymakers handle the periphery.

Have you checked out possible mounting options for this 10 incher?
 
I be liking those SR 10" Combo as well. They give nearly the same distances as the spot and more than the 6". More recognition distance = more time to perceive and react. Have you checked out possible mounting options for this 10 incher?
The best option I can visualise is under the headlamps where the horn sits.

If you use a Small fly screen - Above is viable - with a Roadster type screen has to be below, imo. Both are going to be tiny aesthetic nightmares though. Jim is looking to mount his under the headlights. RIGID do make a mount for 6" and 10" lights for fitting to ATV's etc - take a look in the catalogue - may give you some ideas - I'd make my own.

Do you have engine bars? - If so an option might be 2*6" combo - one each side mounted vertically. Between engine bars and radiator. - more light and expense. Would be pretty easy to make brackets. though.

Regarding LUX and distance. One interesting feature of those lower values with the LED floods I have on the 4X4 is they pick up those 3M-reflective road signs miles away. Find this really great on unknown windy country roads - gives you a good idea in advance where the road goes - you feel better prepared. They light up nocturnal animal eyes too. Humans! - I'm a misanthrope.

There is also a weird option - I'm "sort-of" researching. Bicycle lights. Most of these use the Cree XM-L series 10Watt LEDS - a decent 600-800 usable lumens each. I'm trying to get dispersion spec's from a place in Singapore I use for R+D materials. - These offer a plus/minus. Most would need some form of voltage converter - but COULD also be run off their supplied battery packs.

This offers a plus that if you break down - you can switch them to strobe or SOS pattern and switch the bike off. Battery life depends on the pack.

Look at 2LED Bike Light - 2T6 Bile Light - Cree T6 + R5 LED Bike Light Worldwide Free Shipping!!! for examples. There are some there at 30bucks for 20W lights including batteries and charger. Built in switches too.

We have unusually and unseasonal high temps at the moment - So I'm hoping to get an opportunity to do a night time video.
Maybe tonight depending on how I return from work - Right now I'm getting close to homicidal by the time I escape.
 
The best option I can visualise is under the headlamps where the horn sits.

Do you have engine bars? - If so an option might be 2*6" combo - one each side mounted vertically. Between engine bars and radiator. - more light and expense. Would be pretty easy to make brackets. though.

Regarding LUX and distance. One interesting feature of those lower values with the LED floods I have on the 4X4 is they pick up those 3M-reflective road signs miles away. Find this really great on unknown windy country roads - gives you a good idea in advance where the road goes - you feel better prepared. They light up nocturnal animal eyes too. Humans! - I'm a misanthrope.

We have unusually and unseasonal high temps at the moment - So I'm hoping to get an opportunity to do a night time video.
Maybe tonight depending on how I return from work - Right now I'm getting close to homicidal by the time I escape.


Good idea on using the engine bars. Mine need replacing from my crash anyway and when able to kick around the garage I shall look into your idea. A Baja Rocket could be cool indeed!?!?!?

There have been studies regarding the high vis of randomly placed reflective signs and objects. Distance estimation at night is problematic and without movement they are largely ignored by drivers. Evenly spaced reflective turtles or those plastic poles define roadway path very well.

Wish we had some of that "unusually high temps" here in the NW US. Winter SUX. A brisk rip on that Rocket should be an RX for those homicidal tendencies! :D
 
Wish we had some of that "unusually high temps" here in the NW US.
I did take advantage as we're forecast SNOW for Saturday. Had a ruddy relay fail on me in the closed position. Main bean auxiliary lights relay. Gets changed out tomorrow. It's the second one of its' type that's failed thus. The other "spare" is going in the bin with this one.
 
I did take advantage as we're forecast SNOW for Saturday. Had a ruddy relay fail on me in the closed position. Main bean auxiliary lights relay. Gets changed out tomorrow. It's the second one of its' type that's failed thus. The other "spare" is going in the bin with this one.

Since you create your own systems I assume/hope this ruddy relay issue is not one that I would have with Daymaker or Rigid???
 
Since you create your own systems I assume/hope this ruddy relay issue is not one that I would have with Daymaker or Rigid???
A bad relay is a bad relay - I bought 3 at once and 2 have failed. The other relays I have always used have lasted YEARS AND YEARS. Got to it yesterday - flicked it twice with my thumb and it unlocked.Simply a ****ty relay.

The previous one that failed resulted in both beams being on when I still had halogen bulbs in. Things got HOT. With LEDs you wont get as hot. Will simply put in an bog standard Automotive 40Amp relay today. The ones I had in were automotive too but micro 25Amp. The Micros seem inadequate for M/C use.

I'm going to talk to MotoGadget - they do some very tidy and tiny relays designed for bikes. 20Amp. Most of their stuff tends to be solid state switching - expensive but robust.

mrelay_std_eur_800.jpg


btw - discovered THIS late yesterday lurking on the Rigid website

http://www.rigidindustries.com/v/products/gallery/lightcomparison.html

Not entirely sure it compares apples with apples - but it's interesting.
 
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A bad relay is a bad relay - I bought 3 at once and 2 have failed. The other relays I have always used have lasted YEARS AND YEARS. Got to it yesterday - flicked it twice with my thumb and it unlocked.Simply a ****ty relay.

The previous one that failed resulted in both beams being on when I still had halogen bulbs in. Things got HOT. With LEDs you wont get as hot. Will simply put in an bog standard Automotive 40Amp relay today. The ones I had in were automotive too but micro 25Amp. The Micros seem inadequate for M/C use.

I'm going to talk to MotoGadget - they do some very tidy and tiny relays designed for bikes. 20Amp. Most of their stuff tends to be solid state switching - expensive but robust.

mrelay_std_eur_800.jpg


btw - discovered THIS late yesterday lurking on the Rigid website

http://www.rigidindustries.com/v/products/gallery/lightcomparison.html

Not entirely sure it compares apples with apples - but it's interesting.


Well, that resister stuff was over my head. :D
I don't need to add these if I buy the Daymaker or Rigid do I?
 
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