Floppy Shifter, Not Good

[warp9.9]

I just re read the procedures, it covered splitting the case and included removing the crankshaft. Thats were removing the cam chains come in. So happy I'm not getting that deep into it. So bam...no touching the cover or cams. Score!

Part of the problem is there is no specific instruction to just work on the transmission; at least not outright. Are you using a hard back manual or the downloadable one? In this case I would think the hard back one for just the rocket (early manual) would be easier for you as it gets rid of all the touring stuff. As long as you post questions we can steer you right or easier. I have an early one here which does not even have any of the classic components in it like floor boards. It was issued 1 May of '04. I also have the PDF file one.

 

[DQDude]

Part of the problem is there is no specified instructions to just work on the transmission at least not out right. Are you using a hard back manual or the down loadable one? In thins case I would think the hard back one for just the rocket (early manual) would be easier for you as it gets rid of all the touring stuff. As long as you post we questions we can steer you right or easier. I have a early one here which does not even have any of the classic components in it like floor boards. It issue 1 May of 04 I also have the PDF file one.

Downloaded version. I have a classic but I can make it work. Just really not wanting to get stuck by removing something i don't need to.

 

[warp9.9]

Downloaded version. I have a classic but I can make it work. Just really not wanting to get stuck by removing something i don't need to.

No problem. Now I know which manual to look at when you have a question
Do you have the motor out now?

 

[DQDude]

No problem now I know which manual to look at when you have a question
Do you have the motor out now?

Not yet. Running errands, looking for tools to mod to get the mounts undone and flywheel puller

 

[warp9.9]

Ok just checking. Once you get her out the specific method can be discussed. Also IMO it is easier to pull things like the clutch cover and clutch basket while the engine is in the bike. The book has you wait. It's just the engine is held firm in the frame which I think makes it easier. Same going back together. This will also show updated detent components early if they have been changed along with cam chain guide changes. Again I feel it's just easier that way.

 

[thorin]

Scott, I’ve been reading your replies to the situation and I am again impressed with your wealth of knowledge. You helped me off-line a few months ago.
This forum is lucky to have you.

 

[warp9.9]

To help you out a bit when I first tried to take one of these loose with the triumph tool I broke the tool. Replace these lock nuts as a set is good, especially if older. Take a drift (punch for non machinist) preferably brass, and shock it with about a 32 oz ball peen or a heavy mall. It helps to free it up. Works so well you can actually loosen them with the drift but you will need a tool to properly torque them. It's the shock that frees them up. Not really wanting to say they are corroded but a little squirt of the WD-40 and a couple whacks I spun them out with my fingers. You just need to get them out a thread or so as they're just lock nuts like double nutting a bolt or stud.

 

[mr hunt]

You'll need the triumph tool to remove the alternator. Unless you know a decent machinist....

My local dealer let me borrow theirs for a small bond and a trusting nod

 

[DQDude]

Well finally back at the Rocket surgery. Back on updated parts. I do have the updated wheel on the detent assembly. Are the cam chain guides easy to ID as updated? Plus definite signs of the case being split previously.

 

[warp9.9]

Well finally back at the Rocket surgery. Back on updated parts. I do have the updated wheel on the detent assembly. Are the cam chain guides easy to ID as updated? Plus definite signs of the case being split previously.

Yes the detent wheel is the updated one. The cam chain guides are old style (which might not be bad). I would measure the plunger drop on the tensioner. If it's still good I'd let it stay and continue on with the trans problem.