Engine sputtering and backfiring

I doubt if its the fuel filter ! As i rode @ 220 kmph !! This misfiring or backfire is intermittant! It appears suddenly! In my case its der past 700 miles occasionally more noticeable @ city riding than the hardcore highway thing!!
 
Even though I'm one of the most technically ignorant members Rocket-wise, I suggest you consider this: the manual states that poor throttle response at low rpm's is often due to low fuel pressure caused by filter blockage/leaks or by loose fuel pipes to the pump and filter. Also, why not check the 3 Ramair connections to the throttle bodies to be sure none have become unseated?

I'm not doing anything else myself, from here on it's Triumph's issue...I should start a pool on what is causing it...I'm right on the fence that it's either a tuning issue, or a problem with the TPS...
 
Whatever it is, I sincerely hope it gets fixed sooner rather than later. A lot of helpful advice you've received but also a lot to think about. Good luck.
 
I'm not doing anything else myself, from here on it's Triumph's issue...I should start a pool on what is causing it...I'm right on the fence that it's either a tuning issue, or a problem with the TPS...
I think if it was a corrupt map you would have issues starting the bike. Now this does not mean something is not wrong with the map although it does not look to weird. I will have to spend some more time with it. I am leaning towards a bad TPS. As the ignition timing is also controlled by the Throttle percentage and rpm. Maybe it has a worn or damaged area and as a rheostat the correct TPS % gets fumbled and who knows maybe it reverts to the Neutral timing which had a 10 degree alteration. Or it loses it location and fires wrong. A easy way to determine if it was the map is to load another acceptable tune for triple filters and TORS. But a de-restricted one so you can see if it acts the same. Then I would load one with the timing restrictions in play and see if there is any difference in the problem between the first restricted gears and the upper gears. If you have the dealer change the or adjust the TPS he does not have to change the map. Maybe he would let you ride it first before any map alterations have been done.

I do think we need to get you on Tune ECU I have helped many walk thru using it over the phone. And well I know your not a rock so I have confidence in your ability to quickly become a tune ecu guru.
 
Okay, I dropped off the bike at Triumph. My initial impression was not good. The guy that came out to take my bike in the building didn't impress me much. He said they don't use tuneECU or Tune Boy, so they don't make any adjustments to any existing maps. He said the only thing they do with the ECUs is reset them to the factory setting if necessary. I'M GUESSING I DON'T WANT THEM TO DO THIS BECAUSE MY BIKE WOULD RUN LIKE CRAP WITH THE MODS I HAVE AND A STOCK ECU SETTING, IS THIS CORRECT? I will have to call back and ask for the service manager as I didn't get a good vibe from this guy. So it looks like if the problem is being caused by the tune, they aren't going be able to do anything with that, but they should be able to fix anything else that may be causing it like a bad TPS or other sensor, bad vaccum line, or a bad coil connection, is this a good assumption?

Scott, I'm hoping the dealership can either find the problem, or isolate it to the tune...if it's in the tune, I'm sure you and I (and I say "I" as a very wet behind the ears apprentice), and there are probably many other folks on the site who can play around with some tunes until we get it right. Right now I just have to wait for the process of elimination to take it's course, and hopefully they don't screw anything up in the process. I shouldn't condemn them before they do anything...who knows, they may end up doing me right! I hope so, I just don't like dealing with dealers...
 
Okay, I dropped off the bike at Triumph. My initial impression was not good. The guy that came out to take my bike in the building didn't impress me much. He said they don't use tuneECU or Tune Boy, so they don't make any adjustments to any existing maps. He said the only thing they do with the ECUs is reset them to the factory setting if necessary. I'M GUESSING I DON'T WANT THEM TO DO THIS BECAUSE MY BIKE WOULD RUN LIKE CRAP WITH THE MODS I HAVE AND A STOCK ECU SETTING, IS THIS CORRECT? I will have to call back and ask for the service manager as I didn't get a good vibe from this guy. So it looks like if the problem is being caused by the tune, they aren't going be able to do anything with that, but they should be able to fix anything else that may be causing it like a bad TPS or other sensor, bad vaccum line, or a bad coil connection, is this a good assumption?

Scott, I'm hoping the dealership can either find the problem, or isolate it to the tune...if it's in the tune, I'm sure you and I (and I say "I" as a very wet behind the ears apprentice), and there are probably many other folks on the site who can play around with some tunes until we get it right. Right now I just have to wait for the process of elimination to take it's course, and hopefully they don't screw anything up in the process. I shouldn't condemn them before they do anything...who knows, they may end up doing me right! I hope so, I just don't like dealing with dealers...

You can wait to check the performance of the bike after the dealer is through with it. The dealer will for sure will arrest any hardware related issues like coil, lose plug connection etc.

The tuneboy etc is purely a aftermarket thing!!
 
I just called and spoke to the service manager and told him not to change any of the settings in the ECU (or ECM as he called it). They're only going to be checking hardware...
 
That is the first place I would try. retract the stepper motor and see what the TPS reading is while checking the stepper motor distance to the cam.
(ISCV reset) Then if it goes out again you know it is the TPS. Myself if it was suspect a new one would be in her. If it solved the problem then the old one would be in the trash and a new one for stand by on order. I wish I had time to come up and do it for you. But I am in crunch time getting ready for the ride to Maggie Valley. And me truck is in the body shop because of a deer suicide thing :(
 
That is the first place I would try. retract the stepper motor and see what the TPS reading is while checking the stepper motor distance to the cam.
(ISCV reset) Then if it goes out again you know it is the TPS. Myself if it was suspect a new one would be in her. If it solved the problem then the old one would be in the trash and a new one for stand by on order. I wish I had time to come up and do it for you. But I am in crunch time getting ready for the ride to Maggie Valley. And me truck is in the body shop because of a deer suicide thing :(

Wow, sorry to hear about your truck...glad you're ok! Sounds like it's not uncommon for a TPS to go bad? Are they expensive and/or tough to replace?
 
The hardest part is splitting the connector, easy to do one hex screw is all that holds it in, be good to have tune ecu to check the voltage but you can always go old school move it back and forward till you find the sweet spot then tighten,
 
Back
Top