Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?

There is no difference in mapping between CA or 49-state bikes, i.e. whether it has Emssions Control or not
Emissions canister would have been on bike for sure if sold in CA - in other States, it can possibly still have as CA bikes, even new unregistered can find there way to dealers in other states
 
I'm sure that was tongue in cheek but just to clarify, the OEM is actually a VERY good part as far as SHUNT regulators go - in fact I would say it is probably the best Shunt R/R you can get.
Series Regulators, although the technology itself is not really new, are pretty recent addition to Motorcycles - in fact the Suzuki DL1000 is the ONLY production motorcycle of which I'm aware that actually utilizes a Series R/R as OEM
(not counting Polaris vehicles which use one)

Yea, a bit, though honestly I'm pretty much a null on what is and is not a good RR. But reducing the load on the stator definitely sounds like a good plan, and there seems to be a few people already running this setup who have no issues. I do place a premium on being proactive about upgrades and improvements that can be helpful.

The only question is if you can modify the stock perch for the RR to install the somewhat larger replacement there since I'm running out of room under the side covers anyway - plus that I'm also sort of planning to wedge in a GPS tracker unit somewhere under there, just for ****s and giggles.
 
There seems to be a growing consensus, that the new R/R will NOT fit where the old one is, lest one go over a bump, and have the drive shaft collide with the R/R (the stock location is directly above the drive shaft). I suppose, one could move the bracket that holds the R/R and tip-over sensor, move that bracket up a tad, enough for the new R/R to clear.

I don't know how much work that would be. I looked at that too, and immediately dismissed that location. And pretty much anywhere else is going to extend the wiring significantly.
 
Well, I'm probably going to take the rear end apart anyway this winter (again); the rear wheel is still nice and shiny but the plan is to take it off and give it a top-up of polishing and then apply Shine Seal... so I don't have to do it again in 4-5 years or some such.

So with the fender out and all that I'm sure I can take a closer look at seeing what needs to be done, no rush.
 
There seems to be a growing consensus, that the new R/R will NOT fit where the old one is, lest one go over a bump, and have the drive shaft collide with the R/R (the stock location is directly above the drive shaft). I suppose, one could move the bracket that holds the R/R and tip-over sensor, move that bracket up a tad, enough for the new R/R to clear.

I don't know how much work that would be. I looked at that too, and immediately dismissed that location. And pretty much anywhere else is going to extend the wiring significantly.

Hey Joesmoe,
How has the 32800-31J00 rectifier been working for you?

My 2008 RT3 is not charging the battery and after testing/measuring the stator resistance and AC voltage, which turned up good :),
I am in need of a rectifier.

Any comments you have will be appreciated.

Thank you,
Rich
 
@rahoffman2 I'm sorry to hear about your electrical issues. @DEcosse is our resident electrical guru, and was the one who alerted this list to the availability of better rectifier, and I hope he can help here too.

Yours is a great question, and I can tell you, other than it being a slightly different form factor requiring a different mount point, it is otherwise plug and play. And it has been working just fine.

Mainly, it gives me peace of mind that I'm no longer dogging the alternator with full output, most of which is shed as heat.

I heartily recommend it.

Again, welcome to the site, and hope you are back on the road soon, with full confidence.
 
Update; I bought a 32800-31J00 Monday. It arrived today. Plugged it in and now I'm charging at 14.5 VDC!!! :)
20170222_183001.jpg
 
So I've been reading this thread over and my question is....Is the Shindengen SH847 one in the same with the Suzuki 32800-31J00? The Shindengen SH847 seems to be less available through vendors when shopping on the Internet. It looks like @Joesmoe has successfully installed it on his rocket by removing the canister. I'm not sure who posted this canister removal picture that I saved out, but I'll post it again in case anyone is interested. Seems as I recall it was @DEcosse who posted it.

It makes sense that it would be better to have regulator that provides the current based on need rather than the full on shunt style regular that is on the bike.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    151.8 KB · Views: 18
Back
Top