Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?

[DEcosse]

....Is the Shindengen SH847 one in the same with the Suzuki 32800-31J00? The Shindengen SH847 seems to be less available through vendors when shopping on the Internet.

Yes - the DL1000A Suzuki is the ONLY production motorcycle of which I'm aware that actually uses this SH847 Regulator.
Any reseller is simply buying it from Suzuki because I don't think Shindengen will sell it to anyone else - that is why there are no bargains to be had on it but if you shop around there are many discount Suzuki parts dealers who offer excellent discounts and often free shipping (& generally no tax for most out of state orders)

... Seems as I recall it was @DEcosse who posted it. .

Indeed

 

[rahoffman2]

Here is a picture of my mounting of the 32800-31J00 RECTIFIER ASSY (Suzuki) $154.03 I bought from Partzilla: OEM Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, Marine Parts
I don't have a canister and I removed the old rectifier to give me a little more room.
I used ty-raps to hold the plugs on since I broke the tab on the stator plug while taking it off the old rectifier.

 

[Bedifferent]

Okay..So I'm looking at all this stuff and I have to ask the question based on your picture @Joesmoe .....you didn't see a way that you could fabricate an aluminum plate the would fasten to the original mounting fasten points and then mount the new regulator to that plate? And In doing so you would still have room to connect the wires and clear the driveshaft. I'm not keen on the whole plastic tie thing. Since I haven't tore into things to see the current regulator mounting and how much room you have in there....I hate to second guess your mounting solution. It just seems there has to be a better way. I can fabricate about anything once I see what I'm dealing with. It looks like the regulator could be brought more out towards the cover without a problem. Even using a couple of stainless clamps to fasten a plate to frame might be a better option. What do you think?

 

[Joesmoe]

If only I had even a shadow of your skills, not to mention the equipment.

When you look at yours, you will see they mounted the tip-over sensor on top of the bracket and the regulator under it. The bracket is actually a cage similar to how hard drives used to be mounted in pizza box computers. So I would have to start over, with a new bracket that would be taller for the new R/R, and have the provision for the tip-over sensor. This is perhaps child's play for you -- too daunting for me.

If you choose to make a bracket, I would suggest you make ten, and charge a fair price for them, and I'll be your first customer.

 

[Bedifferent]

If only I had even a shadow of your skills, not to mention the equipment.

When you look at yours, you will see they mounted the tip-over sensor on top of the bracket and the regulator under it. The bracket is actually a cage similar to how hard drives used to be mounted in pizza box computers. So I would have to start over, with a new bracket that would be taller for the new R/R, and have the provision for the tip-over sensor. This is perhaps child's play for you -- too daunting for me.

If you choose to make a bracket, I would suggest you make ten, and charge a fair price for them, and I'll be your first customer.

I may just have to do that, but I'll have to buy the new regulator first before digging into the project. I think I can do it!

 

[Kevdog]

Sorry if I'm thread jacking, but my bike just left me stranded and I think its the rectifier.

I set my meter to diode:
With the red meter lead connected to the negative terminal of the rectifier I get 446 across all 3 terminals
With the black meter lead connected to the positive terminal of the rectifier I get 98 across all 3 terminals

Is this a bad rectifier?

 

[AndrewK]

I love when older posts show up on the main page because I get to look through them and say what is this? I read everything, I like what I read, part number doesn't seem valid anymore...

32800-31J00 - anyone know the new part number?

@Kevdog - Sorry, I don't know the answer. @DEcosse is the resident guru on all things electrical.

 

[Ishrub]

Sorry if I'm thread jacking, but my bike just left me stranded and I think its the rectifier.

I set my meter to diode:
With the red meter lead connected to the negative terminal of the rectifier I get 446 across all 3 terminals
With the black meter lead connected to the positive terminal of the rectifier I get 98 across all 3 terminals

Is this a bad rectifier?

A long read but a good one from a similar thread despite the title. Read Post#13 onwards
Waterproof DC12V to 24V Digital LED Panel Voltmeter Gauge Volt Meter

After my regulator died I was concerned about my stator as well:
Did your battery run down until the engine died?
Did you check the output voltage from the regulator rectifier (RR) with the engine running?
If it is your RR make sure you get a plug n play Shindengen series SH847 (32800-31J00 RECTIFIER ASSY) one as fitted to Suzuki Strom 1000 to replace heaps better than stock shunt version and I have had no problems since.

 

[Ishrub]

I love when older posts show up on the main page because I get to look through them and say what is this? I read everything, I like what I read, part number doesn't seem valid anymore...

32800-31J00 - anyone know the new part number?

@Kevdog - Sorry, I don't know the answer. @DEcosse is the resident guru on all things electrical.

I got mine last year from Partzilla in the US and sent to Oz for a great price. They still seem to list it using that part number.

32800-31J00 RECTIFIER ASSY $154.03

 

[AndrewK]

I got mine last year from Partzilla in the US and sent to Oz for a great price. They still seem to list it using that part number.

32800-31J00 RECTIFIER ASSY $154.03

Fantastic! Thank you @Ishrub