Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?

[Joesmoe]

@Joesmoe was the wiring long enough or did you have to extend it??

@Jag - The beauty of this installation as you see it, is the replacement unit is truly plug and play. Unplug the connectors from the OEM R/R, and unbolt it (two bolts). The bracket also has the tip-over sensor on top, and one doesn't have to do anything with that. The existing wires come from the front, and so they easily turn up to the location you see.

Short answer: Yes, the wires are long enough.

 

[Joesmoe]

Is there any noticeable difference Paul?

If you look back earlier in this thread you'll see where @DEcosse posted a link to an IR photo of the R/R running before and after.

I don't expect to see a difference -- the current R/R does its job, or we'd have a bunch of complaints about charging and such, just as with the early ignition switch failures.

My motivation is just as DEcosse said, the stator on this bike requires taking the bike apart to get to it, and the current R/R puts significant stress on the stator as it is working at full output all the time, and the stock R/R is just throwing away much of that as heat, and the series R/R only takes power as needed, so runs much cooler to start with.

 

[DEcosse]

... the current R/R puts significant stress on the stator as it is working at full output all the time, and the stock R/R is just throwing away much of that as heat, and the series R/R only takes power as needed, so runs much cooler to start with.

You're a quick learner Paul

 

[BigNorm]

If you look back earlier in this thread you'll see where @DEcosse posted a link to an IR photo of the R/R running before and after.

I don't expect to see a difference -- the current R/R does its job, or we'd have a bunch of complaints about charging and such, just as with the early ignition switch failures.

My motivation is just as DEcosse said, the stator on this bike requires taking the bike apart to get to it, and the current R/R puts significant stress on the stator as it is working at full output all the time, and the stock R/R is just throwing away much of that as heat, and the series R/R only takes power as needed, so runs much cooler to start with.

Thanks. That's pretty trick and I like that your location makes it easier to access. What's required to get rid of that canister?

 

[Joesmoe]

The canister is held on with a wire tire -- so diacuts and it's loose.

If you are sitting in front of a decent-sized monitor, and click on the photo of the installation; if you look closely toward the left of the R/R, you'll see the three rubber hoses that were connected to the canister, and I connected them to each other with a generic plastic tee from the local auto parts store. I'm sorry I forget the size of the hoses -- I had an assortment in the package I purchased (had it on hand from the one part that wasn't included in the otherwise complete installation for the McCruise cruise control). And you'll note a third blue wire tie I used to keep those lines from flopping around. I was left with several unneeded hoses on the floor.

 

[BigNorm]

So is it just a bunch of vacuum lines hooked together or does it drain?

 

[Joesmoe]

The vacuum lines are connected. Saved me having to plug them, and figuring out what went where.

There is still the vent line from the tank that like many thousands of other bikes, is simply led down.

 

[BigNorm]

 

[rocketjohn]

I am gonna get me one, and do the Joesmo mount! I might try to source a really thin lower power fan to put on the new R/R too.

 

[BigNorm]

I am gonna get me one, and do the Joesmo mount! I might try to source a really thin lower power fan to put on the new R/R too.

I'm a big fan of zip ties myself. I always have a bag of them handy.