Transmission went south

I look at it this. I got 68,000 miles basically free of mechanical problems. My bike is not a super built bike. Ramair, street cams, and Viking exhaust 3 into one. Last dyno which was a honest one it produced 168 horse I do not remember the torque but is was decent. So if I do a rebuild at 68,000 miles it must mean that I really like the bike. Do I want more torque? That is all I talk about even on here. The 2500 kit can do this plus some. Do I plan on going down the highway doing Trible digits? My pockets are not that deep and I like my clean driving record for the last twenty years. Do I want to pull away quickly? YES. Will it lead to mechanical failure? I guess it could but if I wanted a bike just for being mechanical sound I would be on a GOLDWING not a ROCKET. Still looking around for a way to jack the bike off the engine. Man that does not sound right
 
That is what I am looking at. So far all they did was break the ground and have not been back since. Told them today no show tomorrow and we will part are ways. Looking at pre built sheds. Very popular here in Oklahoma. Time is a factor. I do not wish to wait a couple of months while a shed is being built slowly.
 
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I don't have any details other than my fuzzy memory from 10 years ago when I read about the torque increase. Supposedly, Triumph, when announcing the increase, mentioned a strengthening of the drive train. If there were some changes, it should up in the parts list for the drive train after the 2010 increase. The bottom line is that large increases in torque can wreak havoc on a drive train. A motorcycle drive shaft, with its various components is more susceptible to torque increases than a chain drive. At 170ftlbs @ the rear wheel, my peak torque is more than stock, but I'm not worried about breaking anything other than the speed limit.
 
The most common failure mode I’ve seen, is circlip migration/deformation. Which of coarse leads to multiple input/output gears attempting to engage at the same time. From what I’ve read Triumph claims the cause is by backward installation of the clip.

When Rob @Claviger had his trans apart, the measured clearance between the circlip and the groove was far too large, Which leads to deformation, and consequently migration. A properly clearanced circlip is massively strong.
I will say that if I ever need a trans repair, I’ll be doing the machining, installation on it myself.
 
Trolley beam would be best but can use engine hoist, or overhead beam with come-a-longs works great. If can't completely clear engine, single lift lets you turn frame ninety degrees. One man operation but friend makes it easier.
 
The circlip issue has more to do with the shifting force through gear changes than it does engine hp/tq .... both times it happened to me were directly following track days where gear changes were hard and often at WOT.
 
The circlip issue has more to do with the shifting force through gear changes than it does engine hp/tq .... both times it happened to me were directly following track days where gear changes were hard and often at WOT.
I tend to agree with you. The cir-clip is a known problem. I wished I'd had payed attention to see if it was a consistent cir-clip moving or not I've been staring at the premature damage of a gear box for the last couple days in fact laying on the couch i can turn and see the exploded views in the manual thats been laying there for a couple weeks now. Believe it or not I use it as a quick reference I'm thinking I need to fire up my computer and go thru my transmission photos. Might even find someone recording of his transmission operating with a drill motor