Transmission went south

[sonny]

Will things start breaking when you add say 50%? Thats a big number that only a few ever get too, i think troubles for stock start 170 180 range? so far 160 seems safe, will soon find out i think where an 08 touring lets go

168 at 68,000 miles is not safe.

 

[sonny]

I look at it this. I got 68,000 miles basically free of mechanical problems. My bike is not a super built bike. Ramair, street cams, and Viking exhaust 3 into one. Last dyno which was a honest one it produced 168 horse I do not remember the torque but is was decent. So if I do a rebuild at 68,000 miles it must mean that I really like the bike. Do I want more torque? That is all I talk about even on here. The 2500 kit can do this plus some. Do I plan on going down the highway doing Trible digits? My pockets are not that deep and I like my clean driving record for the last twenty years. Do I want to pull away quickly? YES. Will it lead to mechanical failure? I guess it could but if I wanted a bike just for being mechanical sound I would be on a GOLDWING not a ROCKET. Still looking around for a way to jack the bike off the engine. Man that does not sound right

 

[Kevin frazier]

Since theyre building your shed, can you have beam put up so cum a longs can be used to lift bike?

 

[sonny]

That is what I am looking at. So far all they did was break the ground and have not been back since. Told them today no show tomorrow and we will part are ways. Looking at pre built sheds. Very popular here in Oklahoma. Time is a factor. I do not wish to wait a couple of months while a shed is being built slowly.

 

[bernard]

Well written ands I agree with everything except a teensy bit at the end.
" In 2010, Triumph increased the R3R torque by 15%. They also beefed up the drive train to handle that increase. What if you add 50% torque? Will things start breaking? "

I think that was 'achieved' the same way we all do.. tweaks to tune, exhaust system etc but I have never heard or seen any sign of a 'beefed' up drive train.

I don't have any details other than my fuzzy memory from 10 years ago when I read about the torque increase. Supposedly, Triumph, when announcing the increase, mentioned a strengthening of the drive train. If there were some changes, it should up in the parts list for the drive train after the 2010 increase. The bottom line is that large increases in torque can wreak havoc on a drive train. A motorcycle drive shaft, with its various components is more susceptible to torque increases than a chain drive. At 170ftlbs @ the rear wheel, my peak torque is more than stock, but I'm not worried about breaking anything other than the speed limit.

 

[Jvheli]

The most common failure mode I’ve seen, is circlip migration/deformation. Which of coarse leads to multiple input/output gears attempting to engage at the same time. From what I’ve read Triumph claims the cause is by backward installation of the clip.

When Rob @Claviger had his trans apart, the measured clearance between the circlip and the groove was far too large, Which leads to deformation, and consequently migration. A properly clearanced circlip is massively strong.
I will say that if I ever need a trans repair, I’ll be doing the machining, installation on it myself.

 

[Gerald]

I look at it this. I got 68,000 miles basically free of mechanical problems. My bike is not a super built bike. Ramair, street cams, and Viking exhaust 3 into one. Last dyno which was a honest one it produced 168 horse I do not remember the torque but is was decent. So if I do a rebuild at 68,000 miles it must mean that I really like the bike. Do I want more torque? That is all I talk about even on here. The 2500 kit can do this plus some. Do I plan on going down the highway doing Trible digits? My pockets are not that deep and I like my clean driving record for the last twenty years. Do I want to pull away quickly? YES. Will it lead to mechanical failure? I guess it could but if I wanted a bike just for being mechanical sound I would be on a GOLDWING not a ROCKET. Still looking around for a way to jack the bike off the engine. Man that does not sound right

Trolley beam would be best but can use engine hoist, or overhead beam with come-a-longs works great. If can't completely clear engine, single lift lets you turn frame ninety degrees. One man operation but friend makes it easier.

 

[Ishrub]

I got these a while ago just need a shed a to use them.
AU $159.90 each (US$112)

Au$35 (US$25)

Sydney Tools

sydneytools.com.au

 

[mr hunt]

The circlip issue has more to do with the shifting force through gear changes than it does engine hp/tq .... both times it happened to me were directly following track days where gear changes were hard and often at WOT.

 

[warp9.9]

The circlip issue has more to do with the shifting force through gear changes than it does engine hp/tq .... both times it happened to me were directly following track days where gear changes were hard and often at WOT.

I tend to agree with you. The cir-clip is a known problem. I wished I'd had payed attention to see if it was a consistent cir-clip moving or not I've been staring at the premature damage of a gear box for the last couple days in fact laying on the couch i can turn and see the exploded views in the manual thats been laying there for a couple weeks now. Believe it or not I use it as a quick reference I'm thinking I need to fire up my computer and go thru my transmission photos. Might even find someone recording of his transmission operating with a drill motor