Speedometer, Display, Warning light went nuts, now everything is dead.

[DEcosse]

^^^ That simplified schematic looks like something DEcosse created

Oh wait ............ it IS!

 

[DEcosse]

Did you lose your intended post @Starmanut ?
You have my quote and nothing added ...........

 

[Starmanut]

Maybe this simple wiring diagram will help you,

You should be getting at least 12v at the fuses if the battery registered 12v.

That is what I would think, too. So somewhere I'm losing 9 or 10 volts... Do all those connections pass through the ignition, then?

 

[Starmanut]

Did you lose your intended post @Starmanut ?
You have my quote and nothing added ...........

Yup. Then I went back and edited back in. Hope it worked that time.

 

[DEcosse]

My bad. "across" was not a good choice of words. I did have the negative probe on the battery ground. Got the same 2.9 volts on each side of the fuse. And no voltage on fuses 5 and 9. I had the ignition switch out of the frame and pushed and shoved the wired bundle going into it. Made sure the kill switch was on, too....

The Kill switch has no impact on the voltage at the Fuses

Please also confirm - you are measuring with the Fuses still installed, correct? And using the method I described, just touching the positive probe to the metal tabs on the tops of the fuses?

You should have 12V (with respect to Ground)
at both sides of ALL fuses except 5, 9 & 10 (& 8 which is unused) with Switch OFF
With Key-Switch ON, you should have 12V at both sides of ALL Fuses (again, except 8, unused)

Start with Fuse 11 and Fuse 2 - do you have 12V there?
If no voltage at Fuse 11, then
a) If on NEITHER side of the Fuse, check the in line connector between the battery and the Fuse Panel
b) If on only one side of Fuse, the Fuse is blown

If you have voltage at both sides of Fuse 11, then you SHOULD have voltage at Fuses 1-4 and 6 & 7

Edit - also check the voltage at Fuse 11 with the Key OFF - does it change when you switch key On/Off ?
If it is 12V but then dies when you switch the key on, leave key on & check voltage at battery again.
If Battery volts low wen key is on, your battery is toast,

 

[cootertwo]

I say it's the battery. Should read more than 12.8 if it's fully charged. I know on my 2013 Rocket, when the battery gets tired, all kinds of cwazy things happen. Takes power to make power!

 

[DEcosse]

A battery at 12.8V (switch off) will not cause this problem - not unless it seriously craters when the switch is turned on (see last paragraph of my last post)

 

[Starmanut]

The Kill switch has no impact on the voltage at the Fuses

Please also confirm - you are measuring with the Fuses still installed, correct? And using the method I described, just touching the positive probe to the metal tabs on the tops of the fuses?

You should have 12V (with respect to Ground)
at both sides of ALL fuses except 5, 9 & 10 (& 8 which is unused) with Switch OFF
With Key-Switch ON, you should have 12V at both sides of ALL Fuses (again, except 8, unused)

Start with Fuse 11 and Fuse 2 - do you have 12V there?
If no voltage at Fuse 11, then
a) If on NEITHER side of the Fuse, check the in line connector between the battery and the Fuse Panel
b) If on only one side of Fuse, the Fuse is blown

If you have voltage at both sides of Fuse 11, then you SHOULD have voltage at Fuses 1-4 and 6 & 7

Edit - also check the voltage at Fuse 11 with the Key OFF - does it change when you switch key On/Off ?
If it is 12V but then dies when you switch the key on, leave key on & check voltage at battery again.
If Battery volts low wen key is on, your battery is toast,

Well, I put the charger on today for about 8 hours. Got 13+ volts (with the charger still hooked in). Tested the fuses and got the same voltage on both sides.
The engines started right up. I turned the key off to hook the tachometer up again. Turned the key on and everything dead again.
Checked fuse 11 with the key off and got a trickle about 2.8 volts on both sides. With the key on there is nothing on any of the fuses.
The battery stays the same with the key on or off. 13+volts then loses a volt or so. The voltage dropped a bit after I ran the engine. I recharged again till the charger gets in to maintenance mode, but I still don't get anything when I turn it on.
I think I will take the battery in to get it checked. Don't know a whole lot about amps and volts, but maybe the amps part is just not putting out as it should.

 

[DEcosse]

If you have voltage at the battery but not at fuse 11, there is nothing wrong with the battery
The battery would only be an issue if the voltage at the battery was collapsing when you turn on the key - you report it is not, therefor there is no problem there, so I would not waste your time pursuing that further

You need to check that in-line connector between the battery and the Fuse Panel - that would be appear to be where your problem lies (or else a VERY poor battery connection)
Voltage at battery but not at fuse 11 - there is VERY LITTLE where the problem can be.

 

[Starmanut]

If you have voltage at the battery but not at fuse 11, there is nothing wrong with the battery
The battery would only be an issue if the voltage at the battery was collapsing when you turn on the key - you report it is not, therefor there is no problem there, so I would not waste your time pursuing that further

You need to check that in-line connector between the battery and the Fuse Panel - that would be appear to be where your problem lies (or else a VERY poor battery connection)
Voltage at battery but not at fuse 11 - there is VERY LITTLE where the problem can be.

I will do that! The thing that had my hopes up is that it started first thing and I had the total battery voltage on both sides of the fuses with the key off just before that. The headlight was on and all. But the next time I turned the key (after connecting the tach) nothing happened. Just as if the connection inside the key never touched.
In my experience even with a battery so low that it won't turn the starter motor, at least the lights would be on, however dim. So between turning the key off and on something happens. I did pull the plug to the ignition apart to take another look so I can buy a replacement (ordered one from EB). So when I get ambitious enough to rewire the broken/cut one I can add a wireless ignition some day.
Does the di-electric grease affect the connections any? I used that before plugging back in.

Thanks for your help! I'll keep trying stuff.