hombre
Nitrous
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2006
- Messages
- 1,021
Considering the velocity of the air that's moving downward into the throttle body, any and all protrusions into the bore are going to be disruptive. If you are gonna remove the plates in search of a bit more power, it stands to logical reason to eliminate as much protrusion in the bore as possible.
If I were to remove the plates, I would also remove the actuator rod and hardware and then plug the holes flush with the ID of the bore so as to present the smoothest air flow.
Since I've been there and done that, here's a tip:
The ECU need to "see" both the existence of the secondary throttle motor and the relative position of the secondary plates (via secondary TPS). So you will get a constant "check engine" light unless you keep the secondary motor connected to the secondary TPS by a short piece of rod (and maybe store the removed units under the tank). IMO, not worth the bother... I live with the light.
Remember: You can't read tech tips like this on R3Owners.com 'cause they ain't been there!
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