Removing the Secondary Plates (Butterflies)

Considering the velocity of the air that's moving downward into the throttle body, any and all protrusions into the bore are going to be disruptive. If you are gonna remove the plates in search of a bit more power, it stands to logical reason to eliminate as much protrusion in the bore as possible.

If I were to remove the plates, I would also remove the actuator rod and hardware and then plug the holes flush with the ID of the bore so as to present the smoothest air flow.

Since I've been there and done that, here's a tip:

The ECU need to "see" both the existence of the secondary throttle motor and the relative position of the secondary plates (via secondary TPS). So you will get a constant "check engine" light unless you keep the secondary motor connected to the secondary TPS by a short piece of rod (and maybe store the removed units under the tank). IMO, not worth the bother... I live with the light.

Remember: You can't read tech tips like this on R3Owners.com 'cause they ain't been there! :D
 
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she won't start

Removed the secondaries like shown here. Replaced the battery. She has plenty of fire, injectors pump up, plugs spark but she won't crank. Any ideas!?!?! Please e-mail or call 940 206 6131 Everything is just like it was except for missing butterfles and bigger battery.:eek:
 
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Removal of the secondaries will not cause that symptom. Start with the silly stuff that we all miss:

Is the key on.
Is the switch on.
Is the clutch in.
Is the kickstand down and the bike in gear (needs to be in neutral or have kickstand up).

It's most likely something simple. Walk away, take a breath, and then come back and walk through it logically.
 
Thanks! We'll keep trying.:rolleyes: Battery spins fine. Bike is on a lift with kick stand up. Computer boots up fine. Injectors pulse. Plugs fire. We are checking the fuel filter being the tank was raised....maybe shook some trash loose. Lets see... fire, compression, fuel,..... it ought to run:confused:
 
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Do both gauges do their initial 'sweep'? Do you hear the fuel pump spin up? You said that the plugs fire, were they wet when you pulled them?
 
must'a been a gremlin

It's alive! :roll:Didn't do anything different except keep wiggling various connectors. Jon thinks it may have been a too thickly applied layer of what I call pooky (connector grease). Anyway, she is running now.... still a mystery why she didn't fire right up.
 
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It's alive! :roll:Didn't do anything different except keep wiggling various connectors. Jon thinks it may have been a too thickly applied layer of what I call pooky (connector grease). Anyway, she is running now.... still a mystery why she didn't fire right up.


There have been problems with the ignition wiring, especially if you have installed risers. Something to keep an eye on. Many have discovered loose or detached wires causing this exact problem. Or ... it could have just been a gremlin.
 
It's alive! :roll:Didn't do anything different except keep wiggling various connectors. Jon thinks it may have been a too thickly applied layer of what I call pooky (connector grease). Anyway, she is running now.... still a mystery why she didn't fire right up.

At least Triumph sees fit to use dielectric grease now (pooky) as you call it. The older r3's were devoid of dielectric grease in any connector and that was something we all did.....right away.
 
Guess what I am doing this weekend. I have read through this thread at least 3 times. Are you guys sure there are no adverse side effects like an erection lasting for over four hours?
 
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