hombre
Nitrous
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2006
- Messages
- 1,021
Great minds think alike...
Removing the Secondary Plates (Butterflies)
- Thread starter Jamie
- Start date
Great minds think alike...
Jamie
Living Legend
Glad to be fortuitously amongst such great minds
Jamie
Jamie
Lester532
Turbocharged
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
My bike isn't available so I can't peer at the TB's.
I would think that aluminum plugs, turned to a slight taper and secured with 272 threadlocker would work just peachy. Probably lots more time involved pulling the ancilliary linkages.
Dropping a fixing screw down the throat of an intake reminds me of my Troy-Bilt tiller and it's Tecumseh engine. I was tilling the garden last fall and all of a sudden, the engine starting making a helluva noise, like a banging sound. I stopped the engine, pulled the plug and everything looked ok. Put the plug back in and started it up and it started banging again. I shut it off, pulled the air cleaner (for kicks and grins) and peered down the throat. One of the fixing screws that secures the choke plate was missing. I pulled the head and the screw was embedded in the aluminum piston crown and was doing a tap dance on the head. Got the screw out of the piston with the vise grips, took a die grinder to the head to smooth the ragged area down, put the head back on and all is well.
Probably be a bit more involved with the R3.
I would think that aluminum plugs, turned to a slight taper and secured with 272 threadlocker would work just peachy. Probably lots more time involved pulling the ancilliary linkages.
Dropping a fixing screw down the throat of an intake reminds me of my Troy-Bilt tiller and it's Tecumseh engine. I was tilling the garden last fall and all of a sudden, the engine starting making a helluva noise, like a banging sound. I stopped the engine, pulled the plug and everything looked ok. Put the plug back in and started it up and it started banging again. I shut it off, pulled the air cleaner (for kicks and grins) and peered down the throat. One of the fixing screws that secures the choke plate was missing. I pulled the head and the screw was embedded in the aluminum piston crown and was doing a tap dance on the head. Got the screw out of the piston with the vise grips, took a die grinder to the head to smooth the ragged area down, put the head back on and all is well.
Probably be a bit more involved with the R3.
We had a rivet that held the two halves of the air intake box on our Viper race car come loose at the NASA finals at Mid Ohio last September. The rivet was ingested through the intake and took out one of our intake valves. A very costly result of a poor design.
If you drop one of those screws into the air intake, immediately lift your Rocket up, tilt it to its side and shake it very hard. Lacking the ability to do that, DON"T DROP THE SCREWS.
If you drop one of those screws into the air intake, immediately lift your Rocket up, tilt it to its side and shake it very hard. Lacking the ability to do that, DON"T DROP THE SCREWS.
Jamie
Living Legend
lift your Rocket up, tilt it to its side and shake it very hard. quote]
A bit athletic, isn't it?
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
lift your Rocket up, tilt it to its side and shake it very hard. quote]
A bit athletic, isn't it?
Not with an overhead hoist like I have in the shop. I can sling the Rock upside down if necessary.........
Coulod be messy though.
Geek_Law
Supercharged
If you are really nervous, you can take the entire throttle body off easy enough and then remove the secondaries whilst sitting at your kitchen table. Once you can see the secondaries, you just have 3x screws and 3x hoses, and maybe 5x wire harnesses to remove. Hmmm ... cannot remember if you have to remove the throttle linkage. Forget what I said. Don't take it off, just use tape to prevent a mini disaster.
Anyway, I used a slightly different method that I think was a bit easier. I blasted the top butterflies (the ones you are removing) with a little brake cleaner to degrease them, and then I just used electrical tape (or masking tape) around the the top butterflies rather than the bottom, then removed the screws. They couldn't fall past, because the butterflies were taped in place. Then I removed the butterflies by peeling back the tape which was still stuck to the very clean plates.
As for the benefit vs. downside ... the bike was definitely more responsive, but just for 1/2 a second or so, then all was as usual. I certainly didn't notice any downside and still don't.
Totally unnecessary restriction if you ask me. As for the internal posts ... That's pretty funny that you guys removed them. Ugh ... I guess I have another project to add to the endless list of mods.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
Considering the velocity of the air that's moving downward into the throttle body, any and all protrusions into the bore are going to be disruptive. If you are gonna remove the plates in search of a bit more power, it stands to logical reason to eliminate as much protrusion in the bore as possible.
If I were to remove the plates, I would also remove the actuator rod and hardware and then plug the holes flush with the ID of the bore so as to present the smoothest air flow.
