Question about Noise while releasing clutch

[sunny]

I am not going to say it right now because I dont want to break the party hat little too soon but I think i have figured the solution for this problem, Its been 3 days and its almost gone, happening only 1% of the time but maybe the weather is in 20+C thats why? I want to verify in lower temperature and then I will put the solution out. it cost me around 200$ and DIY 1 hour of labor

alright, my garage was at 20C/68F when I left house and bike was parked for last 3 days, I started it and there was no judder but then I rode for 10min parked for 2 hours and then left for home, checked temp and it was 17C / 62F and there was a bit judder at first roll, after 2 hours of parked rocket.

so i take it back, I thought the fix worked, but it seems it related to cold start/temperature (?)

is there anyone who lives in 20+C / 68F temps all year around even in night, perhaps he can chime in. @Journeyman @Protonhound

 

[Protonhound]

So they opened it up, and found nothing wrong? Or did not replace because of no warrenty issues? I dont understand…

They opened it up and found nothing wrong, they did mention a tiny bit of free play between the clutch and the housing but according to Triumph that is normal. They did however experience the issue for themselves do agree that there is something weird.

 

[sunny]

They opened it up and found nothing wrong, they did mention a tiny bit of free play between the clutch and the housing but according to Triumph that is normal. They did however experience the issue for themselves do agree that there is something weird.

so that judder is now Triumph approved.

 

[Protonhound]

so that judder is now Triumph approved.

Not necessarily yet, considering it took them 4 years to fix a very real safety concern with the rear brake cylinder and didn't even have their website updated with the "new" models until the end of January it might take them a while to get around to making a decision on this. The free play may very well be normal and not the cause of the issue, maybe the bikes affected just have certain clutch components on one end of the tolerance spectrum. My warranty case with Triumph will stay open.

 

[Journeyman]

I have a suggestion and curious if this might help (in some cases). It’s definitely worth a shot.

The theory behind this is that your clutch may not be completely disengaging due to air in the system.

The clutch and front brake have the same design for bleeding the master cylinders (only described in the manual for the front brake, btw).

Before heading out on a full day ride to VA yesterday I bled my front brakes, as they were getting a little soft. Even though I had bled the master cylinder on the clutch not long ago I decided to do it again, since I had an open container of brake fluid. I posted about doing this not long ago- If you’re having trouble getting into neutral and from there to first seems overly clunky (see link below).

Anyway, in just a short time my clutch fluid is, once again, dirty and there was some trapped air in the MC. Here’s a photo of the fluid.

The point of this ramble is that my shifts are noticeably smoother and just wondering if this juddering some of you have might not be reduced or eliminated by bleeding the MC and changing some of the fluid.

I’m pretty sure I haven’t had any juddering since the first time I did this. The procedure is super easy, however, Do Not suck out so much fluid as to introduce air into the system. If so, you’ll need to drop the radiator to bleed the clutch line. That’s a very time consuming ordeal.

Finding Neutral - the fix

I was having trouble getting into Neutral. I wondered if it was the change in motor oil brands, no, or if I had actually started wearing out the clutch at just under 30K miles. My suspicion, though, was that the hydraulic clutch fluid had somehow gained some air in the system and this actually...

www.r3owners.net

 

[sunny]

I have a suggestion and curious if this might help (in some cases). It’s definitely worth a shot.

The theory behind this is that your clutch may not be completely disengaging due to air in the system.

The clutch and front brake have the same design for bleeding the master cylinders (only described in the manual for the front brake, btw).

Before heading out on a full day ride to VA yesterday I bled my front brakes, as they were getting a little soft. Even though I had bled the master cylinder on the clutch not long ago I decided to do it again, since I had an open container of brake fluid. I posted about doing this not long ago- If you’re having trouble getting into neutral and from there to first seems overly clunky (see link below).

Anyway, in just a short time my clutch fluid is, once again, dirty and there was some trapped air in the MC. Here’s a photo of the fluid.

The point of this ramble is that my shifts are noticeably smoother and just wondering if this juddering some of you have might not be reduced or eliminated by bleeding the MC and changing some of the fluid.

I’m pretty sure I haven’t had any juddering since the first time I did this. The procedure is super easy, however, Do Not suck out so much fluid as to introduce air into the system. If so, you’ll need to drop the radiator to bleed the clutch line. That’s a very time consuming ordeal.

Finding Neutral - the fix

I was having trouble getting into Neutral. I wondered if it was the change in motor oil brands, no, or if I had actually started wearing out the clutch at just under 30K miles. My suspicion, though, was that the hydraulic clutch fluid had somehow gained some air in the system and this actually...

www.r3owners.net

yes, something is up with clutch fluid, it goes dirty way faster than front brake, perhaps clutch is used more frequently?

 

[Einar]

yes, something is up with clutch fluid, it goes dirty way faster than front brake, perhaps clutch is used more frequently?

This is common. It's not just frequency of use--the piston for the clutch travels a significantly longer distance than for the brake, so more material is shed from the o-rings and discolors the fluid.

 

[cjsp]

I have the same noise. I haven’t noticed if it is when cold. I will definitely pay more attention. I live in Colorado, so it it cold in the morning and warmer on the afternoons.

 

[Journeyman]

The main point is air in the master cylinder. If anyone with “the judders” tries the bleed (20 minutes) let us know if that makes a difference.

 

[TURBO200R4]

The early rockets had the judder spring abd the late ones i don't think so
So with out the spring you have a more abrupt apply. I can see bleeding breaks would help also if you let out the clutch easy with the more control on the lever might help also different types of oil with different friction modifiers could be beneficial.
For example in the early Hondas if you use any thing but Honda fluid it will shift so hard it will shake coins out of the ash tray.
Now when building racing transmissions for the track we will leave out the judder sping or cushion sring and the high stall converter and the slicks will absorb the shock.
But do that on a street car and you will have customer complaints just like what is happening on the late rockets
Hth