The power from the switch goes to the relay, if the starter is working the ignition switch wouldn't be the culprit since it powers both. Check the voltage at the relay output with the starter button released. If you have the low beam cut-out option (like I do) then your SPDT may have gone out and your lights won't come on (although the high beams should be working). You might also check your connector from the old headlamp harness is still coupled up properly since that is what switches the H-4 relays on. With the starter relay is working OK your problem is probably not up stream of that relay, it's my guess it's down stream.
Looking at the complete wiring diagram your starter relay sends power to the lights when the start button is not pushed (normally closed contact). That's a blue wire with the only tap off going to a grip heating circuit (lot of juice from a single circuit tied to the ignition, glad I didn't design it). Then goes to a #10 fuse. The output of the fuse goes to a yellow/blue wire that plugs into the hi/lo beam selector (dip switch). Coming out of that switch the wires are red/yellow and red/black and go through #6 and #7 fuses. The wires coming out of those are red/blue and blue/white. Those should be your high and low beams and the solid black wire is the ground. Have you checked the ground?
The H-4 kit uses the harness connection blocks, so you might try switching the harness connection to the unused harness connection and see if there's any change.
Let us know what you find out.
I certainly appreciate the suggestions. I swear that this is a ghost of Lucas situation and it must be exorcised. I'll be setting up candles and incense around the bike before I dig into it again tonight.
Please pardon the long post. I writing all of this for my benefit as well as others that might find it useful later. This is my plan of attack for tonight.
I agree that the ignition switch is unlikely the problem (whew!!!). Also, the circuit through fuse #2 must be good as well.
From what I can tell, the circuit from the ignition switch feeds into the relay socket through pin 30. I have confirmed that this is getting voltage by placing the positive probe down the 30 socket and grounding the negative probe on the bike frame.
Based on the relay diagrams, the load side of the relay are the 87 and 87a pins with the outermost 87 pin serving the headlights (normally closed to 87) and the 87a pin serving the starter circuit.
A couple of questions:
1) If I partially insert the relay into the socket and turn the ignition on, I should expect to see voltage on the 87 pin (headlight load circuit). Correct?
2) After removing the relay, if I take some wire and bridge the 30 (line) pin and the 87 (load) pin, I should expect the headlights to come on when the ignition switch is turned on. Correct? Is this potentially dangerous to the circuit? Of course I wouldn't hit the starter in this configuration.
If 1) fails then the relay is the issue. I bought a new one last night and it didn't seem to matter but I didn't run this test.
If I resort to 2) then I should see voltage on both the 30 and 87 pins. If yes, then move on.
The next voltage check would be at the wiring harness connector for the left side grip housing (dimmer switch, turn signals, clutch switch, horn switch). Check voltage at position 10 where the blue wire enters from the line side. Next check voltage on the load side where the blue/yellow wire exits.
If voltage exists at this point then it would make sense to check positions 6 and 7 on the switch side connector (red/yellow/low and red/black/high, respectively). One of the two wires should show voltage. If neither do then it looks like it's time to tear down the switch housing on the left side and probe the internal connections.
If the dimmer switch and its connections check out OK, then it gets interesting as this is where the EB H4 relay kit comes in. Leaving the switch connectors, the low beam is a blue/red wire and the high beam is a blue/white wire. These wires extend to 2 smaller connectors under the tank, one for each headlight in the stock configuration. With the EB kit, you unplug one connector and seal it up with tape. The other connector is used to feed the EB kit.
I need to probe this connector on the red/blue and blue/white wires to verify voltage on each side. On the load (headlight) side I chose to splice in the two EB kit wires. The low beam red/blue spliced to the yellow kit wire and the high beam blue/white spliced to the white kit wire. These wires feed into the 2 kit relays. These are the EB relay activation circuits and do not supply load power directly to the headlights.
QUESTION: I'm not exactly sure how the blue instrument light (headbeam indicator) is energized when both headlights are out. Right now, when the ignition switch is on and the test sweeps are done, the blue light is lit but the headlights are not on. How is this accomplished?
So, if all this above checks out then I will need to move on to the feed circut for the EB kit. This starts with a direct connection to the battery moving out to an EB PC-8 fuse block. The positive side has an inline 30 amp fuse that looked good but I should verify with a voltage check. On the fuse block, I have the headlight feed circuit connected to a switched position (#6). The 20 amp fuse at this position looks good but I should also verfiy with a voltage check. The ground lead is also fitted to the ground side of the fuse block at position #6.
Somewhere is all of this is going to be a failure. Where? I have no idea.