New Cams New Thread

Cant wait to see the dyno report. Exciting isn't it ?

Yes, mostly excited about info it'll provide regarding intake port flow, and the accuracy of my simulated engine.

The estimate says -3lb-ft peak torque, +11 HP peak HP, will know soon, classic big cam trade off of bottom for top. That may not end up being the case though.
 
Turn the seal on the clutch release actuator shaft around so that the seal's open side is outward. It normally functions to keep oil in but now you want it to keep air out. You may also get some air leakage around the oil fill cap.

You can manage the vacuum level by installing a tee into the line between motor and "whistle" and bleed outside air into the system. You can get small deflective disc one-way check valves at the auto parts store that crack at several inches or you can drill a hole in a plug to tailor the vacuum to suite.

Kudos on getting her back together. Nice detective work on identifying your valve train issues and then finding solutions.

It will be interesting to see your dyno charts. Wish you could get brake specific numbers as they tell much of the story on how one cam works compared to another. At 260 hp, it is unlikely that you will discern small differences with the butt dyno on the street. Way too much happening, way too fast for anyone to process while trying to stay safe. Track time actually "slows" things down.

Enjoy the terror!
 
So well said Speedy!!

If this proves my model accurate I have very good calculators BSFC and BMEP calculated data.

The intent is to get the model as close as possible and use it to specify builds for other bikes in the future, starting with Scar, then a few others who've expressed interest.
 
I agree can't change the duration but by changing the advance/retard on gears but can change opening/closing times which causes differences in ramp timing and overlap. On automotive performance cams, usually the cam manufacturer sends a card recommending where to set cam timing. Then you can try settings a few degrees different from card if you are searching. Usually manuf. knows best. I shouldn't have butted into conversation, I apologize.
Dude, no apologies! This is how we all learn, including me. I wasn’t trying to school you or anyone else for that matter. Regarding cams, I’ve never experimented with different timing, due to time and cost of getting it tuned.

Maybe Rob can do one of those overlays on his next dyno sheet to see what changed!?
 
What can happen when you don't partially thread all bolts and wiggle the cover to ensure its centered on each hole. Thankfully I ordered two, and always do with gaskets lol. Total time... 38 minute fix lol.
20190923_075108.jpg
 
Test ride complete, just a short one to get it hot and check for leaks. It's raining, of course it is, so couldn't really get on it at all. Initial impressions, butt-dyno reports a good bit more torque below 2000 RPM, a good thing, but not expected, could also be not riding it in 3 months, so can't really say yet.

What I do know, its WAY leaner below 3k RPM at 10-20% throttle now, 2 full AFR points, telling me it's breathing better, also hinting at better torque down low. I'm a bit nervous about what that means up top as it shouldn't be making a whole lot more power at low rpm.


PS: Look at the oil slick that came off the bike when I washed it :O
 
Complete with mechanical part!! Need to wash it... oh god poor baby has oil, coolant, grime, dirt everywhere. No test ride today, it's pouring rain and testing out a new engine in the wet... pass.

If you listen closely you can hear the slight lope, even at 1100 RPM:

First press of button, crank, crank, fire. Exactly as God and Triumph intended. No throttle silliness required, no multiple attempts. Single battery. All the silliness that I had going on before is gone for starting. TBs perfectly synced at 660 during idle, the lope is very much from the cams hehe :p



Only way to wash bike is to ride in the rain!!
 
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