My Moto Hobo life

[DEcosse]

I was hopping that u would help.
Do u know if the regulator off of my 07 will work on jims roadster?

Yes, they are all same on classic, roadster and touring
Before you unbolt it however, just do the stator test I outlined - takes about 2 mins tops and minimal effort to access
Then IF the stator test passes, you can swap in the R/R and see how that goes.
If stator test fails, then no point in removing yours.

But this is the classic, not the Roadster, right?

 

[TURBO200R4]

I don't where i got roadster from just using phone with small screen and found a pic of jims bike.
I think he has to talk to mikes before hebrings it down.
I told him about the fuse
I think your idea about switching the relay would work great. I am going to try to include u with the pm we have with jim.

 

[Jay]

I had forgotten about this. So inspiring.

 

[tribal]

I don't suppose you could flag down one of those folks zooming by to help you move the trailer ?

I have definitely been eyeballing some when they are parked. No Razors have had them and Unfortunately my hitch needs a 1 7/8th ball vs 2” standard on the yrucks towing all the toys here.

My neighbor says everyone is leaving and the dust will not be as bad until Thursday...

 

[DEcosse]

If you have EB headlight kit, then simply remove the fuse from the feed for that rather than fuse 10
Even with LED headlights you'll still be saving 5-6A load

 

[TURBO200R4]

What l am reading is that when u jump the bike and it starts u no longer have a problem.
Unless u r charging a little
I would think that the bat would drain till it gets to around 9 volts and the injectors would quit working.
Just seems odd to me.
@DEcosse do u have opinion on this.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i am going to guess that he knows what he is talking about.
looks like it may take special tool to pull the rotor or maybe he can make one.
it is a hard call might just let him work on it if he is set up and ready to work.
i would go with the good stator either way.

 

[DEcosse]

So, the first test I personally perform is to see if the stator is shorted to ground. Yours is shorted to ground.

If he offered that unprompted, and that is indeed the case, then yes the stator is definitely bad.

My tech also did the AC voltage testing and determined which section was fried.

Doing AC Voltage testing is pretty pointless if it already fails the isolation test.

Unless u r charging a little

For a stator or R/R failure, there will always still be some current generated - only if the R/R is completely physically disconnected (like a fuse or broken wire) will there be zero charging and running on total loss (i.e. battery only); but the battery will discharge if the system load exceeds the generated current; by reducing the system load, you tip the balance back the other way.
That is why turning off the headlights, or any other significant load is a big deal - you may well have enough current to comfortably run the bike and even maintain the battery somewhat. (I have seen some people testing their system and declaring that their system is 'fine' producing 14V at the battery, but when they turn on the lights it drops to mid or low 12's - well duhhh, when you remove that current load of course the voltage will come up)
Typical running current on a twin headlight rocket is going to be about 16A*, the headlights account for considerably more than half of that
In @tribal case with LED headlights, it is likely in the 11A kinda range
But still, disconnecting the headlights gets you down to about something like 6A. (not counting any momentary loads like turn signals, horn, brake light etc)
The predominant load now becomes the Fuel Pump

Should i wait to order the Ricks stator or trust him?

Well I would certainly ask if he can show you that the stator is indeed short - that is not showing distrust, don't know how anyone can take that as a slight when over $1000 is involved!
Then you have to make your own call on that - you know you can get the stator cheaper if you purchase directly;
you know this shop has never tackled this job, but are they still better qualified in your opinion than you & @TURBO200R4 (with help of other members) to undertake the job?
Will they guarantee a max of 8 hrs, or is the clock rolling from min they start till the last bolt is in and it's started?
i.e. maybe you decide it's good value at $800 labour (excl parts) - what if that becomes $1200? (or more!) Still feel same? I'm not actually suggesting that it might be unreasonable, just that you need to understand the maximum impact if it comes to that, in your reckoning
Those are elements only you can decide
With the offer on the table, I think I would keep my $1000 and attempt it with some new friends help

 

[TURBO200R4]

If he offered that unprompted, and that is indeed the case, then yes the stator is definitely bad.
Doing AC Voltage testing is pretty pointless if it already fails the isolation test.



For a stator or R/R failure, there will always still be some current generated - only if the R/R is completely physically disconnected (like a fuse or broken wire) will there be zero charging and running on total loss (i.e. battery only); but the battery will discharge if the system load exceeds the generated current; by reducing the system load, you tip the balance back the other way.
That is why turning off the headlights, or any other significant load is a big deal - you may well have enough current to comfortably run the bike and even maintain the battery somewhat. (I have seen some people testing their system and declaring that their system is 'fine' producing 14V at the battery, but when they turn on the lights it drops to mid or low 12's - well duhhh, when you remove that current load of course the voltage will come up)
Typical running current on a twin headlight rocket is going to be about 16A*, the headlights account for considerably more than half of that
In @tribal case with LED headlights, it is likely in the 11A kinda range
But still, disconnecting the headlights gets you down to about something like 6A. (not counting any momentary loads like turn signals, horn, brake light etc)
The predominant load now becomes the Fuel Pump

when he drops down into the phoenix area the radiator fan will kick on as a guess about 60 miles (one hour if he don't get stuck in the phoenix traffic )

 

[DEcosse]

when he drops down into the phoenix area the radiator fan will kick on as a guess about 60 miles (one hour if he don't get stuck in the phoenix traffic )

Ideally keeping the speed up* to avoid rad kicking on - not much can do about that if in stop n go traffic, other than careful route planning regarding time to avoid the congested periods
* Double whammy - idle or low speed produces less current and of course low road speed means no air flowing through radiator and fan kicking on.
selecting a lower gear will help the former (assuming it IS actually moving at all) but of course not much can do about the latter.