My Moto Hobo life

I have a spare stater that was removed at the dealership two years ago said it looked bad.
Don't worry about how it 'looks' - some coils are always going to look darker (i.e don't worry about colour, but if coil(s) are burned its going to be obvious
You can do same test as when it is installed, out on the bench - again measure resistance from any one of the terminals this time to the center core - should not be short

But of course NZ just maybe a bit far :)
 
US$140 vs your US$225 quoted for a Rick's Stator seems quite good and you cannot beat Hermes for reliability and service from all reports
That 21_001 is not for Rocket
Rocket part # is 21_021

Hermy's incorrect there



 
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@Joesmoe as a primary Hermes user I am sure you will inform Hermes of their error. ;) 😁

Thanks again @DEcosse , you have saved us all a lot of potential humbug.:thumbsup::cool:


They all seem to be the standard US$225 RRP from Rick's but I found this one taking offers.
Even $10 is still another $10 in your Mexican dentist's pocket! :thumbsup: :cool:😁
 
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I don't understand.

Hermy's shows the Stock Triumph factory part number for the OEM stator as T1300450 -- only $500 with shipping.
OUR bad, the eBay lister bonneville63 (500 ) has that Hermys mention in their listing to falsely give credibility and it is obviously wrong. :(




Stator, Alternator
Part Number: T1300450
Fits Rocket III (2006 - 2018)


Ships Fast From Port Clinton, PA


Starter & Alternator
Full Diagram
Diagram Starter & Alternator for your Triumph Rocket III

# 2
Required: 1
 
That discolouration is typical - I would expect that stator will pass the isolation test and would actually be perfectly good operationally. I would never replace a stator just on that alone. Your replacement will almost certainly now look identical if you could see it. (well the epoxy coating on Ricks vs OEM is a little different, but the relative colour of the zones will be the same). It's actually just the epoxy coating that is discoloured.
You can validate it by just doing the resistance isolation check between any of the three pins to the center core.
The reason the isolation test is pretty much a gurantee one way or other is because the failure mechanism is that the insulation on one of the windings breaks down and contacts the core. No short to core, means the insulation is still intact and the stator is still good.

The darker zone is where there is less oil cooling.
Incidentally the way the coils are wound is that around the whole thing, individual coils adjacent to each other are in different phases - i.e. it goes 1,2,3, 1,2,3, etc (i.e. as the windings continue, when one coil is completely wound it skips over the next two bobbins and starts on the 4th one in line etc)
So it's not like all those coils are in the same phase and overheating because a single phase of the three is drawing more current - all three phases are being affected and the higher heat is local to that physical location in its fixed position, rather than one element of the stator. The heat actually being produced by the stator current is the same all the way around, it's just that less heat is removed by the poorer oil contact in that zone. So someone who doesn't understand the way it is wound (not unreasonably perhaps) think that 'one phase' is bad.
Every stator from every same model (i.e. in this case ALL Rockets) will exhibit that darker zone in the exact same location - also this is where the stator will fail, if/when it does.
 
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