Momentary voltage drop? / check engine light

[Hawk]

I have a small Bosch scanner about $100 that works great for reading and clearing codes.
You read the code and Wright down the number then you erace the code/codes if don't erace/clear then most of the time that means you have a problem that is there all the time (easier to deal with).
You need to get tuneecu to deal with problems. There is some threads on this.
Alot of code numbers are in the manuals
Post a code number and you will get help.
A new battery will not turn off the
check engine light
Best to read code/codes and make notes for the future.
Hth

Thank’s I will order

A basic multimeter will get you a long way. You can get those 3 numbers just keeping the multimeter in the battery borne as indicated. The result can point to a bad battery, a battery that needs to be charged or a charging system that is not working properly. Even one of these adapter that show the dc voltage connected to the aux port can get these values for you.

Thnks for the tip will measure it with my multimeter. I have a ctek charger and the connection cable that’s attached to the bike have three diods, green - yellow - red that show the battery charge and if I don’t ride for a week the yellow diod is blinking so I think the the battery is done for. I’ve had the bike for three years and the battery wasn’t new when I bought it and winters get kind of cold here in Sweden.

 

[Hawk]

I have a small Bosch scanner about $100 that works great for reading and clearing codes.
You read the code and Wright down the number then you erace the code/codes if don't erace/clear then most of the time that means you have a problem that is there all the time (easier to deal with).
You need to get tuneecu to deal with problems. There is some threads on this.
Alot of code numbers are in the manuals
Post a code number and you will get help.
A new battery will not turn off the
check engine light
Best to read code/codes and make notes for the future.
Hth

Thank you, great info!
I have been reading about tune ecu quite a bit but haven’t had a reason to get it. But now I will buy tune ecu and a cable.

However it will take a while to get the cable. In the meanwhile can I check error codes and clear them with an odb scanner for cars or is it a special scanner? The season is coming to an end here in Sweden so want to ride

 

[TURBO200R4]

Thank you, great info!
I have been reading about tune ecu quite a bit but haven’t had a reason to get it. But now I will buy tune ecu and a cable.

However it will take a while to get the cable. In the meanwhile can I check error codes and clear them with an odb scanner for cars or is it a special scanner? The season is coming to an end here in Sweden so want to ride

Just about any scanner will read and erace cods
They will not give data like the tuneecu will.

 

[Stillserving]

If you tried to start with a dead battery and it failed, it will sometimes set the CEL. That particular code will usually clear itself after a few successful startups (I believe it's 3 good cycles). Sometimes it won't though. Worst case, if you can't get ahold of a reader, disconnect the battery cables from the battery and touch them together (to drain any residual charges), wait about 30 seconds or so and hook everything back up.

 

[Hawk]

If you tried to start with a dead battery and it failed, it will sometimes set the CEL. That particular code will usually clear itself after a few successful startups (I believe it's 3 good cycles). Sometimes it won't though. Worst case, if you can't get ahold of a reader, disconnect the battery cables from the battery and touch them together (to drain any residual charges), wait about 30 seconds or so and hook everything back up.

Great info will try that tomorrow

 

[Hawk]

Great info will try that tomorrow

Yeees it worked, charged the battery and started the bike and let it run for a short while three times and the engine light turned off on the third start. Thank’s for the help

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Thank’s I will order

Thnks for the tip will measure it with my multimeter. I have a ctek charger and the connection cable that’s attached to the bike have three diods, green - yellow - red that show the battery charge and if I don’t ride for a week the yellow diod is blinking so I think the the battery is done for. I’ve had the bike for three years and the battery wasn’t new when I bought it and winters get kind of cold here in Sweden.

I always put mine on a battery tender when it's parked. My original 2005 battery lasted 11 years, the second one is 8 and going strong.

 

[Hawk]

I always put mine on a battery tender when it's parked. My original 2005 battery lasted 11 years, the second one is 8 and going strong.

That’s really good longevity! Will also do that in the future, sometimes the bike sit still for weeks…

 

[Rocket Scientist]

That’s really good longevity! Will also do that in the future, sometimes the bike sit still for weeks…

I still have the original battery. It lives under the work bench and I use it for test powering things. I charge it a couple times a year and it's still working. It must have been made on a Wednesday.

 

[Gregger]

A basic multimeter will get you a long way. You can get those 3 numbers just keeping the multimeter in the battery borne as indicated. The result can point to a bad battery, a battery that needs to be charged or a charging system that is not working properly. Even one of these adapter that show the dc voltage connected to the aux port can get these values for you.

Along with my Fluke meter, I installed one of these to keep me aware of the voltage condition while riding. It will flash if over/under charging and is made by Kuriakyn. The only issue with this particular model is that it isn't water proof. I took the cover off it and sealed the joints with clear silicone seal to address that. There are other models made that you can use. At least something like this will give you some warning that you have a charging issue instead of leaving you on the side of the road with a dead battery.