Lube the splines...

[Gregger]

That's interesting and a bit confusing too. When I get back to Canada, I'll check mine out but from what I remember, my 2012 Roadster has that little cut out in the housing similar to the one in the pic I posted. Why the difference???

 

[stingray]

Only one hole, the other looks like a casting impression.

 

[Journeyman]

Only one hole, the other looks like a casting impression.

Thank you for that!

 

[stingray]

Thank you for that!

You bet. It looks like the hole is not even machined or smoothed for a plug. I'd guess sand cast in the mold as a weep hole. Big enough for mud daubers to find it and colonize. I might do a rubber plug with a smaller hole in it.

 

[stingray]

All I came up with.
Easy to check and replace, allows for the pressure differential, keeps out the water, grit, and bugs.


A pretty good fit.

 

[Sparky59]

Butt, Now I **** hear you!

 

[Gregger]

Check.... for ear wax???

 

[Foamy]

Splines in OP's initial picture shows some wear has begun, not good.
Us in the Honda ST1100 world prevent this rear wheel spline drive wear by using: Pro Honda Moly 60 Paste, PN: 08734-0001 / PASTE (MOLY 60) or this Loctite alternative, PN:51048 - Moly Paste [65%]. Be sure to use Moly PASTE and not just Moly GREASE, which has a much too low percentage of Moly (~65% vs ~4%). Its really not a regular maintenance option for us, its literally mandatory if you don't want you splines damaged through normal use.

 

[imcool]

At a little over 8k miles I thought it time to lube the splines on the 3R. I'm one of the few who went through a final drive and drive shaft on the older models and have tried since then to do this with every rear tire change or, at least, every other, so every 4 -8,000 miles. Although there was a thin coating on the splines, it looked like it was about time to add some moly. I also change the final drive fluid with each tire change- it's cheap and easy.

The process was pretty straightforward- see pages 1256 - 1264 in the manual. Basically, remove the wheel, rear caliper, disconnect the ABS sensor and the wiring for the license plate, and the four nuts to the bevel box- lube and reassemble.

Here's what it looked like.....

Question 1 - Was there something needed to order from triumph to finish this lube job other than studs you mentioned? like a special gasket from triumph or anything which may stop this job from completion. I dont want to end waiting on any part after opening it and wait for months for it to arrive from triumph as everything is on backorder.

Question 2 - Isn't there oil in rear bevel box? marked in red in photo. do we have to drain it or it wont spill after bevel box removal.

 

[Journeyman]

Question 1 - Was there something needed to order from triumph to finish this lube job other than studs you mentioned? like a special gasket from triumph or anything which may stop this job from completion. I dont want to end waiting on any part after opening it and wait for months for it to arrive from triumph as everything is on backorder.

Question 2 - Isn't there oil in rear bevel box? marked in red in photo. do we have to drain it or it wont spill after bevel box removal.

Nothing to order, although I'm sure Triumph says to replace the bolts. They do that with anything that has thread lock on it. The oil is sealed in the final drive. No gasket between the two (you do want to drain and replace that oil routinely though- different job). If one of the studs turns out, rather than the nuts, you'll need to do what I mentioned in that post. The last time the studs stayed put, as expected. Hardest thing is lining it up to reinstall. If you can get a friend to help it'll be much easier.