I use a piece of plastic (right angle cut from ice cream container) to support driveshaft, then once the bevel box & ds have mated, theres enough gap to pull the flexible piece out. Works a charm & always get it the first time 👌
Unfortunately, that doesn't work with the new ones, but I like that idea and will use it on the Roadster.
 
Another 8,000 miles later and thought I should check the splines again just to see how things look in there. Well, the lube held up pretty well. I could have probably waited another 4,000 miles for just that, but there was a lot of dirt in the surrounding area. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the drive shaft swing arm where I guess crap comes in. Anyway, I highly recommend folks lube those splines on a somewhat regular basis.

Also, just a warning that lining the final drive up with the shaft is a complete b1tch, especially if you're working alone. The male end must be oriented precisely straight with the spring balanced inside the short hole that holds it. The final drive must line up with the shaft, spring has to stay balanced in place and then the four bolts that hold it all together must also line up with the holes in the swing arm. The final drive is heavy and very awkwardly balanced. But all ended well and it came together perfectly.... probably at about the 40 minute mark with a great deal of swearing thrown in! There's nothing like that feeling though when it does slip in.... :thumbsup:

Edit- found a much easier way. See post on page 7.
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Another 8,000 miles later and thought I should check the splines again just to see how things look in there. Well, the lube held up pretty well. I could have probably waited another 4,000 miles for just that, but there was a lot of dirt in the surrounding area. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the drive shaft swing arm where I guess crap comes in. Anyway, I highly recommend folks lube those splines on a somewhat regular basis.

Also, just a warning that lining the final drive up with the shaft is a complete b1tch, especially if you're working alone. The male end must be oriented precisely straight with the spring balanced inside the short hole that holds it. The final drive must line up with the shaft, spring has to stay balanced in place and then the four bolts that hold it all together must also line up with the holes in the swing arm. The final drive is heavy and very awkwardly balanced. But all ended well and it came together perfectly.... probably at about the 40 minute mark with a great deal of swearing thrown in! There's nothing like that feeling though when it does slip in.... :thumbsup:

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Similar operation I go through with the misses these days 🤷‍♂️ ...well the last part anyway 😁
I think the more you do it, the faster you'll be at it (lubing the splines that is 😅) & find more creative ways. Try using a trolly jack for the final drive & thin piece of wood to push up universal at the same time. You might have do make a cradle of some sorts to fit on the jack to support the final drive then it'll one hand operation for that & one for push up universal...
 
Similar operation I go through with the misses these days 🤷‍♂️ ...well the last part anyway 😁
I think the more you do it, the faster you'll be at it (lubing the splines that is 😅) & find more creative ways. Try using a trolly jack for the final drive & thin piece of wood to push up universal at the same time. You might have do make a cradle of some sorts to fit on the jack to support the final drive then it'll one hand operation for that & one for push up universal...
Such a thought crossed my mind as my left bicep became noticeably larger than my right after today's workout. It would take some fine tuning, but having done this again I would say that would be time well spent.
 
OK, need a favor from someone on this thread. Could you look under your swing arm just in front of where the final drive connects to see if you have rubber plugs in these holes? I'm starting to think there should be some there and that all that dirt is coming in from these two holes which should not be exposed. Thanks in advance.

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Pretty sure that is a witness hole used to show if the pinion seal is leaking. The 2300 units also have a similar hole which is uncapped.
Thanks- I never noticed it on the 2300's but must have never looked. It just seems like an unusual amount of dirt in there after 8,000 miles. I do ride in the raid, but did so on the Roadster, also.

Actually, are you sure? When my final drive went out on the Roadster it leaked into the swing arm and I discovered that when I removed the final drive. It was contained in there.
 
Actually, are you sure? When my final drive went out on the Roadster it leaked into the swing arm and I discovered that when I removed the final drive. It was contained in there.
You had me second guessing myself. I had no way to look at my own ride but was able to pull a snapshot from a video recently posted showing the recess in the final drive. You can see the cut out just under the upper left hand stud.

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The pinion seal really should be able to handle any dirt entering in through said hole. If you look at the pinion and seal on a 1/2 ton pickup differential, the only thing protecting it is a shield protruding from the yoke which really only stops small rocks from hitting the seal. Those seals rarely fail...

Given the fact that you have had some dirt get in, I might look for some kind of rubber plug and install it (friction fit). Just pull the plug every once in a while and check.
 
I'm thinking it should have plugs. Still hoping for someone with a 2.5 to stick a phone camera under the swing arm to see if theirs is plugged. I guess I'll tape it until I can find some plugs.

@Gregger- this is the Roadster. Only openings I see on the swing arm are further up and smaller.

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