K&N Filter Options

You don't want a lock up, at least Nev's lockup because his bedside manner is.....well, I'll leave it at that.

There are other lockup clutches available.
It's the Nev-stories I'm trying to avoid. lol
It's just not - quite - strong - enough the way it is .... slips just a tad under a full load while shifting even without the clutch. It will give up someday and slip mid-range. I need to get my ducks in a row for that day.
 
A Question for you PT. Im currently running the jardine exhaust, 3 K&N RU 2780s claw cut out! very soon I was thinking of getting the Carpenter Racing 3 into 1 pipe! my question is would I pickup some HP & TQ going to the RU 1770 or RX 4040-1 doing alot thinking about carpenters engine package too! wish I knew some people who have had this done! concerned about reliability/engine life! thanks for your time!



There are not a lot of filters that are going to fit under the unmolested bearclaw other than the RU-2780 - there are a few, but not many. If you are willing to cut or remove the bearclaw, your choices increase - and you can decrease air temps, while increasing flow and performance even more. Even the RU-2780 produces approximately 3% more output with the bearclaw removed - but you will need to correctly tune for best results. And even more output is possible with higher flowing filters - significantly more.

If you go on the K&N site, you can perform a product search for filters (round, oval, conical, tapered, chrome top, X-treme top, etc.) with specific dimensions.

Search for filters with a flange inside diameter from 62mm-65mm and you will find a host of choices including this one:



Even DNA Filters offer a couple of options that will fit on the throttle body flange.
Part numbers OV-6500-16 and OV-6200-7 are just two options from DNA.

Locate a filter that will fit you needs, and with as much flow as possible. Excessive flow will keep the filter from becoming dirty quickly and reduce performance within a short amount of time. You would be amazed how quickly the RU-2780 performance can be reduced with even a small amount of filter clogging - and it is hindered by flow restriction to start.

Also, realize that locating the air temp sensor so that it picks up air at the same temp as is entering the engine is important. The sensor data is only updated every 7-10 seconds, so keeping the temp correct, and not excessively heated from the engine, radiatior, etc. is important for corrections to air temp in the ECU and best/smoothest output.

Over the past several years, I have tested a great many filters, air/heat dams, velocity stacks, and much more. There are substantial gains to be had when improving the intake system. I have tested flow on a bench through the complete intake and head, temps with K-type thermocouples, velocity with pitot probes, and restriction with a magnehelic gauge. You will be amazed just how restrictive some of these common filters are, and how quickly they become even more so with a small amount of dust/debris.

The 2.3L engine needs a given amount of air to become efficient. As you improve the exhaust system the intake demands increase substantially - even more so with compression, head flow, and camshaft improvements.

Simply decreasing intake air temps 7.4º F will increase output 1% and improve response - even at very low engine speeds. You might be impressed how much it is possible to decrease heated intake air from the engine and radiator. Who wouldn't want their bike to have the crisp response of a cool evening evening on a hot Summer day... and the evening air becomes even better.
;)


I hope this helps.
 
A Question for you PT. Im currently running the jardine exhaust, 3 K&N RU 2780s claw cut out! very soon I was thinking of getting the Carpenter Racing 3 into 1 pipe! my question is would I pickup some HP & TQ going to the RU 1770 or RX 4040-1 doing alot thinking about carpenters engine package too! wish I knew some people who have had this done! concerned about reliability/engine life! thanks for your time!

As we have seen, even R3s with full exhaust systems can benefit from increased air filter flow than the RU-2780s provide. With a modified engine, you will benefit from even more flow.

I am a Carpenter Racing dealer and have seen their quality of work on Hayabusas and GSXR1000 engines before they started with the R3. If they did not offer quality kits, parts, and work, I wouldn't deal with them.

I have a few customers with Carpenter kits on sportbikes used for grudge drag racing. These engines are regularly run hard and put away wet, season after season. Some are running as much as 150 hp of nitrous with pusher systems on top of the bored/stroked engines, and are still running strong.

If you are going to do the Carpenter package, do the pipe as well . With the intake cam having different intake valve closing points than stock, this will dictate different intake and exhaust lengths and diameters than stock cams - as will more compression and higher VE (volumetric efficiency). Your Jardine header and exhaust system is limited in what it will do on a modified engine.

The stock rods are very nicely built - they have regularly turned 8800+ rpm without issue. And we are working on getting improved aftermarket rod bolts. You could even consider shotpeening and balancing the rotating assembly for more safety and smoothness.

The R3 block is STRONG. Lots of webbing and support.

The Carpenter kits use very good quality pistons, rings, and pins. The valve springs and Ti retainers are able to last a long time. Their cams are re-grinds using a smaller base circle, ground and treated by a very good company, so no issue there.

So the only issue is increased wear from running higher rpm occassionally. At stock rpm points the torque is actually improved substantially, so you can putt around town, and still have more output than you do now at common engine speeds and loads. Then let it lose on the open roads, or stoplight to stoplight and watch the sportbike riders expressions. :eek:

Feed it good oil and filters at regular intervals, and the engine should last a long time.

Talk to Art and Bob at Carpenter Racing. They can answer your questions in detail. Just do so earlier in the week if you want to spend time on the phone with them - early in the day is best. They are busy this time of year.
 
I decided to ditch the Bearclaw and get some RU-1770's with the black wraps like what
flhpti did with his.


I think having bigger filter area would be better for performance, and the rocket is already over the top as far as the styling, so this would fit well in the looks. My plan would be to make a set of deflectors to keep the heat away from the filter media.

Hey Power-Tripp, "I am a Carpenter Racing dealer"

How about CR getting aggressive on their exhaust systems?? I had called them about the exhaust that they have pictured on the site, did not seem very interested in selling them or what they were selling was unfinished with no heat shields or a muffler. Very big $$$ for unfinished product, that one has to complete.
 
Is that a deflector kit that one can buy? I'm going to mont the over flow coolant tank below the fuel tank.

Yes indeed, Spike is going to make me broke.
 
Is that a deflector kit that one can buy? I'm going to mont the over flow coolant tank below the fuel tank.

Yes indeed, Spike is going to make me broke.

Its just alum. siding covered with vinyl and seemed to really help keep hot air away from the intakes.
 
Hey Power-Tripp, "I am a Carpenter Racing dealer"

How about CR getting aggressive on their exhaust systems?? I had called them about the exhaust that they have pictured on the site, did not seem very interested in selling them or what they were selling was unfinished with no heat shields or a muffler. Very big $$$ for unfinished product, that one has to complete.
 
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