Installation of Neville Lush Racing "street" cams in 2014 Rocket III Touring

Now that I understand my borescope, I will make a concerted effort this weekend to rotate each piston *down* giving the borescope room to view the entire piston top, just to rule out any foreign object that could have entered the cylinders during the work.

If that checks out, I've pretty much run out of anything I did to be an issue, and will carefully re-mount the clutch cover being ever so careful to follow Nev's supplemental instructions to ensure engagement of the actuator arm with the lifter, and, give it another go.

This will not be this weekend, because I really did NOT like the looks of about half of the 24 bolts that hold on the clutch cover, appearing to be identical to the bolt I rounded off in replacing the throttle body adapters, so I've ordered a complete replacement set from Hermy's.
 
I'm wondering if what we're hearing is a combination of a couple extra thousandths of clearance (on the valves) plus dry slap as oil was not fully everywhere yet. Still waiting for pretty probe pictures of all the valve cut outs on all three pistons. Would like to do an eyeball timing. Set number one to TDC compression stroke and crank gear lined up.
And take a picture of the timing marks on the cam gears with the front edge of the head where the cam cover sits.


And so im am not confusing anyone a feller did that and sent me this.

In this picture #1TDC in which you can see the timing is not set right. Bike ran just did not seem to be as strong. Anyway down the road I go the hunt for a car for my daughter continues
 
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@warp9.9 car for daughter -- GOOD daddy !

So @Neville Lush has been oh so patient and kind, and firm, about the timing, and mine are "balls on accurate".

Timing set thanks to you lending me the tool, if the gears have been fastened properly, the timing marks should be right there with the installation of the tool. And the procedure is to leave the tool in place while adjusting the chain tension, so when the tool is removed, the marks don't move.

Then, with everything together, turning the motor through six revolutions by hand, and rechecking the timing marks at TDC.

I did all that the first time, though without the benefit of your and @R-III-R Turbo 's beautiful photos of the timing marks, so this time going back into it in the process of troubleshooting, and this time with the clutch cover off and a beautifully, unambiguous view of the timing dots on the main drive gear, I measured them again.

And mine are right where they're supposed to be.

And I like the suggestion about slap before oil . . . just seems intuitive.

"A few thousandths out . . ."; to that I cannot comment.
 
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A few thou I think is negligible and could rattle a little before full oil flow. Which you shut her down quickly. Not sure if you watched your oil light or not. Anyway when the fixture arrives you can check. Or roll it early for when it arrives and take a pivture like above. Oh ya the above setting (which was out) was done by a certified Triumph Technician at a Triumph Dealership. Not that anyone else could make a booboo
 
Next time, I will watch the oil light, but there was oil dripping from the chain when I first opened the crank inspection port, so some oil had flowed.
 
Focus is not a strong suit for phone cameras . . .

Illustrated here is how the cam gears should line up when correctly timed with TDC marks on the main drive gear of the crankshaft.

Both cam gears are the same (cheaper production?) with offset holes and text and marks in specific locations.

When the cam gears are attached correctly, initial timing is set with the outward facing arrow on each pointing inside roughly toward each other.

The text of the corresponding cam is visible - 'EX' for Exhaust on the left here (right side of engine) and 'IN' on the other one (not visible here).

And when the cam gears are attached properly, the hole not used is where the pegs for the timing jig hold the cams with relative precision relative to the plane of the top of the head.

When timing, the valve cover gasket is not present, and the top of the head is used for the datum for aligning the now-horizontal mark with the arrow pointing down to it, and faintly visible on the intake cam gear is the same mark and down arrow.

@hoopla this is the mechanism by which, if the directions are followed, it is fairly straightforward to have the correct cam on the correct side, and timed correctly.

 
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Ok if its at tdc on the crank the exhaust looks ok. The intake is a little fuzzy but to me looks to be a tooth off. Mind you it's fuzzy and I do ware tri-focils . But with out a clearer picture of the intake gear marks I am leary. Remember its fuzzy enough it could be right to. Both arrows inward and down you can see the flats on them are parelell with the head gasket surface.
 
As I wrote before, they are both "balls on accurate". Remember, in the photo I have already re-seated the valve cover gasket, thus providing a false reference for the cam gear marks.

And, just went through all three cylinders with the borescope and nothing in there but the carbon. Bad gas, low combustion temperatures, whatever.
 
When you pulled the cam cover to check things out, was there an oil film between the cam and the shims?
 
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