Inexpensive Starter Replacement

[kipper]

You could try Sandy at Triumphant,he breaks plenty Rockets.

 

[scootz]

Thanks.

He has one at £200 ($305). Does that sound about right?

 

[wideneck]

[Edit: PLEASE look at the first post . . . updated the info there.]


Howdy,
I can tell you that 280-0278 DOES NOT WORK.Not real happy right at the moment. The reduction/bendix assy. does NOT bolt up. The holes for the long bolts are off from each other 15 degrees or so. I am not sure at this time if I can somehow make it work, but the bearing/brush plate would have to rotate CCW and I don't think that is possible. Also, there is an area left open to the elements because of the misalignment of the parts leaves a gap.
It would appear I now own an $84.00 paperweight.

 

[Triple Trouble]

Howdy,
I can tell you that 280-0278 DOES NOT WORK.Not real happy right at the moment. The reduction/bendix assy. does NOT bolt up. The holes for the long bolts are off from each other 15 degrees or so. I am not sure at this time if I can somehow make it work, but the bearing/brush plate would have to rotate CCW and I don't think that is possible. Also, there is an area left open to the elements because of the misalignment of the parts leaves a gap.
It would appear I now own an $84.00 paperweight.

I'm not sure where you got that part number but the correct part is specified in post numbers 24 and 25 in this thread. They bolt up and have the correct rotation.

 

[wideneck]

[Edit: PLEASE look at the first post . . . updated the info there.]


Where did I get that number?? In the first post of the thread!
I see that as you pointed out, in #25 that someone else had the same issue as me, so up to a point, my bad for not seeing that,
but seriously, If we know that one of the part numbers listed in the thread are incorrect, REMOVE IT! I assumed that the starter of the thread had some verification of the part numbers, and didn't see the need to read the whole thread, as he says, "bolt up and ride on". What more do I need to know, right?
Sheesh.

 

[CanberraR3]

[Edit: PLEASE look at the first post . . . updated the info there.]


Not wanting to b e critical of someone trying to help, but it surely wouldn't hurt for the first post to be updated. A simple click on the EDIT button by the original poster..........

 

[budman]

[Edit: PLEASE look at the first post . . . updated the info there.]


..the only person that can change/alter or delete a post is the original poster or a moderator..caveat emptor..btw, that right starter motor is the cats meow for cold weather starting issues..helped me a bunch..carry on..

 

[boscoman2]

Picked up the 17610 at Advance Auto this week. Ordered it online for pickup at the store 2 blocks away. A promo code, JA21, saved me 15% but ran out on 1/25.

I also had ordered the other starter that Wayne Tripp had originally recommended.

Here they are side-by-side. From left to right, the 17610, the original recommendation, and my OEM starter pulled from the bike.



I decided to install the 17610 and it was an easy switch out of the motors. Didn't bother with the solenoid.

Of note is the little nub that fits into the slot on the base plate. The 17610 has the notch in exactly the right spot.



Finished the install and hit the starter. Spun over like mad and fired right up in 30 degree temps. The new starter motor sounds a lot different.

The 17610 fits a 1999 Toyota Solara 2.2L with 5SFE motor.


Specs on the 17610:

Diameter: 55 mm
Direct Drive: No
Drive Tooth Quantity: 13
Gear Reduction Ratio: 4.3
Gear Reduction: Yes
Horsepower Rating: 1.8774 hp
Kw Rating: 1.4 kw
Mounting Bolt(s) Included: No
Mounting Shims Included: No
Nose Cone Type: Open
OE Manufacturer: Nippondenso
Overall Length: 215 mm
Rotation: Counterclockwise
Solenoid Attached: Yes
Starter Finish: Same as OE
Starter Type: Nippondenso Offset Gear Reduction
Voltage: 12 v

I paid a total of $128 for mine including the core charge.

P.S. also replaced the negative battery cable with 4 gauge wire. Easy mod.

OK gents, it is time to share a few R3 trick and tips. This is the first - THE STARTER.

The stock starter on the R3 is a 1.2kw Denso unit that is a bit spendy (USD $737.32 plus shipping from BikeBandit). Here is how to fix a bad starter for $83.98, or upgrade to a 1.4kw unit (10mm longer, and 16.7% stronger) for $83.70... shipped to your door.

Many automotive engines use a 1.2kw starter, but have a cold weather option using a 1.4kw unit. This is exactly what we need for improved starting in cold weather, or with modified engines.

Remove your starter.
Remove 2 bolts holding starter motor to head plate.
Remove 2 bolts holding gear reduction and bendix to head plate.
Watch so that you do not lose spring and ball.
Clean gear reduction/Bendix and replace with new grease.

Order new starter from discountstarterandalternator.com in Georgia.
1.2kw - part number 280-0284 or 280-0281
1.4kw - part number 280-0283 or 280-0278
1.6kw and 1.8 kw units can be made to work as well, but these require a slight amount of machining.

Remove the same four bolts from new starter.
Remove gear reduction/Bendix.
Install gear reduction from stock starter on new starter. Make sure that spring and ball go under Bendix.
Replace the 4 bolts.
Install on engine.

Ride on.

If you are really in a pinch, you can use these same part numbers at the local auto parts shop - they can be found on 1999-2005 Toyota Celicas (for one).

I hope this helps,

-Wayne

For anyone else as inexperienced as me, hope this helps: this is on an '06 Classic.

I got the 17610 from Advance. No, you don't have to pull the cat box and silencers (like the manual says) for starter removal. Just gotta have the right extensions for socket and ratchet. All goes the same as the original poster, except the bendix (the rod, not the bendix gear) and spring are too long. In the picture those 3 screws in a triagular pattern cover the bendix mechanism itself. Undo those screws, remove the plate and gasket pull out the bendix rod and replace with the stock one. While you're in there, you can GENTLY turn the wire connector so that its orientation is the same as stock (mine was 180 deg out). Replace plate, gasket and 3 screws and be sure to use the stock spring also. Also, once I got it back together and installed on the bike, I found that the positive power terminal was a lot longer and came within a mm or so of ground. So I pulled it off and bit off a quarter inch or so of it with some bolt cutters. If you have to do this, it helps if the nut is on the terminal when you cut it. That way as you remove the nut, it paves the way for putting it back on over the jagged cut of the bolt.

I know my terminology here probably isn't quite correct, but this is my experience and I hope it helps others

Bill Montgomery

 

[ballyono]

Guys,

Me to faced problems with my starter on the 2008 R3T as well. It started to click . I had to push the starterbutton severall times ( especially when the engine was warm) to make it work again. First a replaced the relais but that did not help. Then, off course, I searched our Forum and found Wayne's great thread. On Ebay I ordered the small service kit for the Denso starter ( 20 pounds).

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=251285690761

Started tacking off the starter , after removing the Pipes and the Catbox of the R3T. 30 minutes work. Replaced the copper parts and the plunger which was send within one week, in the servicekit. 15 minutes work. Installed the pipes again and..........starts like never before. Thanks for all the posts. Again it shows this forum is the most Moneysaving app......for us Rocketeers.

p.s. I also made an extra bypass for the negative ground while taking off the starter and saw on the multimeter that this also helps getting more power on the Battery.

Regards from Holland,

Ballyono

 

[jaredmt]

I don't suppose anyone that has done this has photo documented as they did it? I'm interested in doing so but am frankly quite novice, not sure where on the bike/how easily accessible the starter is or ease of doing the task. (No jack to get the bike up in the air, not sure about special tools,etc.
A number of you guys make it sound pretty easy, but I can also tell that those folks have more know-how with such things than I.