Ignition switch, will TRIUMPH stand by it's product

in my opinion every one needs to use head lite relays.
this simple mod will take off 50 + watts of juice off the ign. sw.

the aux lite sw. also takes its juice from the ign. sw.

the heated hand grips also take their juice from the ign.sw.

if anyone wants one i will make up a kit with instr.

for the price of parts,$10 for my wallet and shipping.

just an idea.

allso the heated grips take their power thru the lite circuit.

so i could make up a gizmo to move its power too if wanted.

every bit of power you take off the ign. sw. will help out.

im not trying to step on anyones toes but it seems like help is needed..

Daffy


..Daffy....PM sent..

..I hadn't got around to ordering one of these relay kits yet, and was going to order one from eastern beaver, but.......I would rather support a forum member/rocket rider than an internet company.....and thanks to gothlander for bringing the solution to everyone's attention for the early ign. switch failures..
 
Like this...

Wiz,
You had better secure the wiring harness coming out the back of the switch. If it sits too close to the block, your key will heat up and burn out the switch.

Mine was wrapped in DEI heat tape. I didn't have a problem with heat induction yet the switch still burned out.
 
I just heard back from the dealer...

Triumph is going to cover replacing the switch under warranty even though I've been out of warranty for some time now.

I just have to foot the bill for the labor.

The Eastern Beaver wiring harness is in route. Hopefully, the issue will be resolved.

From tDragger...
Link Removed

Scroll down the page to the H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit ($54.95)
 
Ignitionswitch

Wiz,
You had better secure the wiring harness coming out the back of the switch. If it sits too close to the block, your key will heat up and burn out the switch.

Mine was wrapped in DEI heat tape. I didn't have a problem with heat induction yet the switch still burned out.

Yep, noticed that its heating up, also going to put relays for lights... Its not bad on highway, but in city key is little hot :)
If it burns, I will change it so that there is only universal powerswitch with key in some other place...
Its still running so I wont bother to do anything :D
 
I got the eastern beaver harness in the mail over the weekend and finally got it installed so I thought that I'd pass on some of the lessons that I learned along the way...


(1) the length of the 'short-wire' plug (socket #1 in their picture) is VERY short. It was very interesting trying to find a reasonable place to put it. I'm probably going to cut into the harness and extend the wires about 4-6 inches. It fit, but just barely.

(2) you have to remove the light bulb plugs from the stock harness to get them out of the bowls, and you have to remove the plugs from the EB harness to get them in the bowls. I used a very small L-shaped allen wrench. There's a little latch on the backside of the "B" fitting that you have to GENTLY pry down in order for the fitting to slip out of the plug. Slide the small allen wrench in the little square slot between the plastic housing the "B" fitting... Pry down towards the "B" fitting and you'll hear a "snap" and the fitting should easily slide out of the plug. You may have to push out the 'little latch' in order for the fitting to snap back in place again.

(3) Depending upon how much "stuff" you have fitted to your battery, you may have to find longer battery bolts because the connectors on the harness are small. I have several harness connected to my battery and the smallish bolts no longer worked.

(4) Using the "connector" that comes with the harness is the next best thing to sliced bread. Plug it into one of the two stock headlamp plugs and you're in business.

In conclusion...
The biggest hassle was figuring out how to get the plugs off in order to extract the stock harness. Once I had figured that out... another 5-10 minutes and I was back in business.

Definitely an easy mod. Hopefully, I've bought my last ignition switch, but only time will tell at this point.

BTW, I don't know whether or not I had said that Triumph warrantied my 3rd switch.:D
 
Wiring issues

Ignition switch has caught me out twice. i took it into my local Triumph Dealer they soldered it up but are telling me I need to go for a new one. Seems to be about wires being a bit short putting stress on the cables and pulling out at one end.
definitely keen on a free new one but my cycles at 150-000ks now. i wonder if they will rectify it for me.:rolleyes::cool::mad:
 
Ignition switch has caught me out twice. i took it into my local Triumph Dealer they soldered it up but are telling me I need to go for a new one. Seems to be about wires being a bit short putting stress on the cables and pulling out at one end.
definitely keen on a free new one but my cycles at 150-000ks now. i wonder if they will rectify it for me.:rolleyes::cool::mad:


a new one is only a temporary fix..ya gotta do the eastern beaver mod along with it or it will burn out again..fkn dealers are stupid..the wires aren't too short..the connections at the base of the ign. switch gets too hot and melts the soldered connections off the switch..ya need a relay in between the headlights and the ign. switch..this one..

Triumph
 
I just got stranded for the second time in less than a year. When the original ignition switch on my 2008 R3 Classic left me stuck at the office parking lot last year I installed the EB kit along with a brand new factory ignition switch from Triumph (which, incidentally I had to wait a month for delivery on). That one has now gone out and left me stuck in a restaurant parking lot at lunch today.

Triumph didn't cover it last time. I've been running with two different keys since then because I didn't want to shell out double for the other keyed components.

So, after two throttle position sensor replacements, a paint can rattle upgrade kit, and two ignition switches, not to mention the flimsy ridiculously priced $799.00 leather panniers that had mismatched and crooked stitching (all factory design flaws paid for by me) I'm done buying Triumph OEM parts if there are any alternatives available. I love my R3, and will ride her until the wheels fall off, but I'm not putting money into a company that won't stand behind their products.

Looking for an alternative to the ignition switch, probably an RFID keyless one now.

Anyone here familiar with this unit?: http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/motorcycles/rfid-keyless-ignition-security
 
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