So here's an interesting fact I just turned up (with the help of
@R3Tex):
Even WITH a headlight bypass there would STILL be a significant current through the key-switch (but only during starting)...............
Here's the background to this discovery:
R3Tex just got one of my Keyless systems with PDM60 (and also my headlight bypass kit):
I had set up the PDM60 on the circuit to Fuse 9 which previously would have fed the headlights directly or the Starter Solenoid depending on state of the Starter/Headlight Relay; now with the headlight bypass kit, there is now only minimal current (~150mA) through Fuse 9 (which would of course be now all that would be through the key-switch without a keyless system) in headlight mode (i.e. starter relay is off);
I had set up the PDM60 current limit to 8A to accommodate the starter solenoid current (which I believed to be already well conservative at that setting)
So I was kinda shocked when R3Tex reported a 'problem' with the starter tripping off after a couple of engine rotations; I realized it had probably tripped the current limit on the PDM60 and R3Tex confirmed for me indeed that the status LED on the PDM60 for that channel was 'RED' (makes diagnostics REALLY easy!
) - so we upped the current limit on that channel to 10A and all was good.
So that says the Solenoid pulls >8 Amps.
So ..... what all of that means is that EVEN with a headlight bypass kit (and this applies to anyone's brand, not specifically mine) that yes, you bypass the key-switch during 'headlight' mode, but that 8+ A required by the Solenoid will STILL flow through the key-switch.
In R3Tex case (or any other that has a keyless ignition system) then of course this current does not flow the switch (which is now completely out of circuit) anyway
But for systems with Key-Switch, this current WILL flow through it during starting.
Does that mean that a headlight relay bypass kit is not worthwhile?
Of course not! It is still very much of benefit:
Key-switch current aside, it still provides beneficial lighting perfromance improvement;
At least the key-switch is no longer conducting that 10A of headlight current continuously;
The starter current is only relatively short duration and low frequency of use.
But it should be recognized that he Key-Switch is STILL seeing a high current through it during starting operation.
However I would say that because of the relatively low duty compared to the more or less continuous headlight current, it probably causes much less damage - definitely thought this would be of interest I would say though!
And a post-script note - even for the Touring guys with only one headlight - note that the starter solenoid current is actually higher than the single headlight current!
