Help! its still dying on idle -What could be the cause of this failure?

[warp9.9]

So from your post especially above I can not tell but it looks like they have not even check the ISCV. This is a easy check as if things are set right you just click by and keep going thru it. If I were a tech I would do that first as thing can't run right or optimum if they are off more then the tolerance. If I found something was off then I would start with the chain mechanical and electrical.
First verify throttle cables are set with the right free play this is checked at the throttle grip for the pull cable and down on the throttle wheel for the return cable. 2-3 mm I would hang with 3 mm to make sure. once I knew not of the cables were binding (to tight) and why I was down there I would probably notice this

one side spring relaxed one side spring tension-ed / throttle flaps move within this range yet the cable grip does not. Lets think a while so we can star adding other possible unwanted spring tension movements to it. Mind you this is not something in the book so the tech does not really have a description of the full operation of the complete set of throttle bodies bolted in a chain.

 

[Allan S]

So from your post especially above I can not tell but it looks like they have not even check the ISCV. This is a easy check as if things are set right you just click by and keep going thru it. If I were a tech I would do that first as thing can't run right or optimum if they are off more then the tolerance. If I found something was off then I would start with the chain mechanical and electrical.
First verify throttle cables are set with the right free play this is checked at the throttle grip for the pull cable and down on the throttle wheel for the return cable. 2-3 mm I would hang with 3 mm to make sure. once I knew not of the cables were binding (to tight) and why I was down there I would probably notice this

one side spring relaxed one side spring tension-ed / throttle flaps move within this range yet the cable grip does not. Lets think a while so we can star adding other possible unwanted spring tension movements to it. Mind you this is not something in the book so the tech does not really have a description of the full operation of the complete set of throttle bodies bolted in a chain.

BINGO! I'll bet you have it! Seeing as though the bike was perfect when it went in for 16k service and that one of the few things other than an oil change that they do is check and adjust the throttle cables (among others) it would make sense that if those were not adjusted correctly it would cause this. Probably the simplest check along with the ISCV. I'll get this to them and see if they pay attention. Thanks again!

 

[warp9.9]

BINGO! I'll bet you have it! Seeing as though the bike was perfect when it went in for 16k service and that one of the few things other than an oil change that they do is check and adjust the throttle cables (among others) it would make sense that if those were not adjusted correctly it would cause this. Probably the simplest check along with the ISCV. I'll get this to them and see if they pay attention. Thanks again!

Ok so now we move a little further down the line

we have springs and spring loaded adjustment screws after all these are separate throttle bodies chained together \. SO if there is a and in the cables up front and the stepper motor gets to fight the tension some (moving in and out) what happens further down the line More important is although I Will exaggerate some. If the bind is holding #1 open a little then the others have rotated some or are just not in the relaxed position along with #1 what happens when we try to adjust the throttle body balance. are we closing one more then it needs to be? In relaxed condition or are we opening it? and well there is three loaded up with spring tension whether relaxed or under undue tension? Just so food for thought

This is what I normally do.
First ISCV check/reset
if TPS is off
I first verify proper slack in cables
then ISCV reset
then balance throttle bodies
Then if I adjusted any throttle bodies I do a ISCV check/ reset in case something moved.
Just my opinion I am not a technician I am a retired Polock

 

[Allan S]

Ok so now we move a little further down the line

we have springs and spring loaded adjustment screws after all these are separate throttle bodies chained together \. SO if there is a and in the cables up front and the stepper motor gets to fight the tension some (moving in and out) what happens further down the line More important is although I Will exaggerate some. If the bind is holding #1 open a little then the others have rotated some or are just not in the relaxed position along with #1 what happens when we try to adjust the throttle body balance. are we closing one more then it needs to be? In relaxed condition or are we opening it? and well there is three loaded up with spring tension whether relaxed or under undue tension? Just so food for thought

This is what I normally do.
First ISCV check/reset
if TPS is off
I first verify proper slack in cables
then ISCV reset
then balance throttle bodies
Then if I adjusted any throttle bodies I do a ISCV check/ reset in case something moved.
Just my opinion I am not a technician I am a retired Polock

You are awesome thanks. I let you know what happens after they try this.

 

[warp9.9]

You are awesome thanks. I let you know what happens after they try this.

Just remember I am thinking out loud. From what I have seen the techs are trained if it aint the sensors and it aint the stepper motor then the problem is the complete throttle body. After all there is no real break down and or operation description of the unit. (most likely because they get it as one complete assembly from some third world country).

Again if you show this to them I am not trying to upset them as a lot of the true information is not available to them either.

 

[TURBO200R4]

this sounds like a weird prob so i will offer a weird guess.
might possible be the switch the kills the motor when the bike falls over and i know that some of them u have to cycle the ign switch a few times. perhaps it is out of position? just a taught. now if i was tring to fix that i would hook up several volt meters to the ign and maybe injectors and when it dies read the meters. also i should not be hard to find out why it won't crank more that two seconds.
if u have green stuff in the connectors u have problems.
gone for the week end hth herman

 

[Frosty Rider]

well I guess that makes my decision easier, they aren't touching my bike, i'll figure out what the 20,000 mile service entails and deal with it my self, hell I have a whole winter and once I get all the bikes rearranged in the garage I should have enough room to work on them all.
if you get it back and it is still messed up, let me know and I can give you a hand with it

 

[Allan S]

well I guess that makes my decision easier, they aren't touching my bike, i'll figure out what the 20,000 mile service entails and deal with it my self, hell I have a whole winter and once I get all the bikes rearranged in the garage I should have enough room to work on them all.
if you get it back and it is still messed up, let me know and I can give you a hand with it

Take it to Sturgess, they did an awesome job on mine at the first service. I just let myself get talked into trying GP because I have a number of friends who take their bikes there but none are Triumphs. I figured that seeing they are the bigger of two Triumph dealers in Toronto area how bad could they be. Its only a 16 k service right? But now I see that with the best intentions aside, they broke my new tire when installing it (they replaced it at their cost), and they gave me back a crippled bike. O but this is Canada, cant say that word - otherwise abled bike?

 

[Allan S]

this sounds like a weird prob so i will offer a weird guess.
might possible be the switch the kills the motor when the bike falls over and i know that some of them u have to cycle the ign switch a few times. perhaps it is out of position? just a taught. now if i was tring to fix that i would hook up several volt meters to the ign and maybe injectors and when it dies read the meters. also i should not be hard to find out why it won't crank more that two seconds.
if u have green stuff in the connectors u have problems.
gone for the week end hth herman

The ignition doesn't have to be cycled at all, if you switch it off and then on just once, you can hear the injector reset, sometimes immediately as usual, sometimes with a 3 or 4 second delay. After that it will usually start. I hear what you say about the corrosion on the CPU pins but I'm not overly concerned as it was tiny pinpricks on a couple of the connectors and they cleaned it and packed it with dielectric so I dont believe it will be an issue for some time anyway. Briefly looked at a number of the connectors on the harness and it looks clean and "green free"

 

[Allan S]

I took my bike in for its 16 KM service and asked for a reflash at the same time.
Got it back and rode 30 miles ran great. Filled up with Gas ( with 9 other guys who didnt develop a problem so I know the gas was good). Rode another 70 miles stopping once or twice and starting up with no problem... bike ran great.

Stopped for coffee break, no gas, and when I tried to start the bike the following happened.

Turn the key and gauges sweep and click as normal. push starter and it turned over exactly twice, strongly. At the point the engine usually kicks in... nothing. Tried again same thing exactly... tried again and subsequent times nothing. The gauges sweep and click electrics work but no starter motor. dead. Tried to push start with a couple of big guys.... what a joke, even in 3rd or 4th. but the starter did kick over exactly twice and stopped.

I NOTICED THAT THE GAS GAUGE SAYS 0 MILES TO EMPTY. Open the tank, 2/3 full, close the tank... she starts for about 10 seconds and dies. Try again she starts and revs but gauge still shows 0 miles to empty. Ride about 100 feet and she dies like out of gas. Open the tank again but this time it didn't start. Starter motor didn't even try.

Any ideas?

December 19 and I finally got my bike back from GPBikes. They replaced the wiring harness and the ECU which means they reset everything. It is idling fine without dying at the moment but I cant check it out completely as its icy and minus 6 outside right now. Seeing as its idling and not dying after a few minutes which was the main problem before, I'm hoping its sorted now- fingers crossed.