Fuel Level Indicator Not Working - Clutch Switch/Solved!

[sonny]

Thanks Turbo200r4. Amazing. We all could have possible solved the issue. Great forum.

 

[Journeyman]

Thanks Turbo200r4. Amazing. We all could have possible solved the issue. Great forum.

"It takes a village..."

 

[TURBO200R4]

It has been good working with everyone. So many times it is like several guys has a piece of the puzzle and we just keep at it till it is finished.

 

[CCjon]

Many many thanks guys, can't wait to try your solution. Am having the same problem, no fuel gauge reading but the low fuel light would come on after burning up 3.5 - 4 gallons.

As a twist to the plot, my clutch switch was acting up so I pulled out the two wires and connected them to an on/off switch on the handlebars. To really play with a thief's mind, the switch has to be in the off position for the bike to start. That switch is right next to the auxiliary light switch, with a normal on/off function. You have to know the right combination of which switch is off but really on, and which is really off to start the motor. So effective I don't bother removing the key anymore.

Next time starting the bike, will try turning off the clutch switch to see if the fuel gauge works again. Have already replaced the fuel float, fuel filter, triple checked the wiring thinking that might be the problem. Never dawned on me that the clutch switch could be the cause of the fuel gauge not working.

I don't have a side stand, the was removed to make room for the bike sub-frame to attach a sidecar. But twisted the two side stand safety wires together to eliminate any starting problems.

Thanks again for your sharing your discoveries.

 

[Journeyman]

Solved !!!

Update- I put in the new/used switch from Pinwall. The horn doesn't work now, ughh, but that's beside the point here.... I have a working fuel gauge!

The bike will not start now unless your pull in the clutch lever √

I don't know if you need to do this, but I disconnected the ground to the battery for several minutes, then I drove to the store and filled up the tank and...... the fuel gauge came back up and started working properly. I refilled later in the day and it's responding and operating as it should!

My bike is temperamental (maybe partly because of the clutch switch if you read what all it does), but it ran a lot better today. I've had a miss at about 2900 and a dead spot at 4800 WOT that are both gone. It pulls harder and it's not my imagination. I'd be interested if other people with this problem, once fixed, don't report better performance too. We'll see if it lasts in my case.

Here's what the switch looks like. Tip: to remove it there is a small square opening on the bottom of the clutch lever just below the switch. Push up with a small screwdriver or pick while pulling out on the switch- comes right out.

You can see on my old switch below where the wire is completely broken on the right side and the two connectors are pinched together. I think we accidentally squeeze these together when removing or installing the switch. When that happens the bike thinks the clutch is always in- no wonder in runs better now too.

 

[MIG]

GREAT to hear! ..and I will add this to my toolbox of Triumph knowledge. Thank you!! Hopefully I only need it to help a friend...
I just recently had mine out to install a new switch housing and must have been careful enough not to pinch the wires together... WHEW!
-MIG

 

[Kevin frazier]

I dont know why i was under the impression that that switch had already been cleaned and checked and greased and put back in being verified good. this is good news that youve got it strait. Solved

 

[Journeyman]

I dont know why i was under the impression that that switch had already been cleaned and checked and greased and put back in being verified good. this is good news that youve got it strait. Solved

Kevin- partly true. The bike wouldn't start, so I took the switch apart and cleaned it up (corrosion)- then it started. Aren't I smart Then the fuel gauge went out. Of course I was under the hood many times at that time trying to figure out why the bike was running poorly and never considered it had anything to do with the switch. So, the switch was always closed at that point, which was good for starting, but not good for the fuel gauge and performance. I'll bet virtually everyone out there whose fuel gauge doesn't work can start their bike without pulling in the clutch lever. If so, the bike thinks the clutch is in all of the time, which causes more problems than just the fuel gauge. Easy to diagnose (now that we know) and easy to fix!

 

[Mike Rocket]

Kevin- partly true. The bike wouldn't start, so I took the switch apart and cleaned it up (corrosion)- then it started. Aren't I smart Then the fuel gauge went out. Of course I was under the hood many times at that time trying to figure out why the bike was running poorly and never considered it had anything to do with the switch. So, the switch was always closed at that point, which was good for starting, but not good for the fuel gauge and performance. I'll bet virtually everyone out there whose fuel gauge doesn't work can start their bike without pulling in the clutch lever. If so, the bike thinks the clutch is in all of the time, which causes more problems than just the fuel gauge. Easy to diagnose (now that we know) and easy to fix!

Fantastic advice. It's a fuel gauge fault i would never have linked to the clutch switch. Thank you. I now wonder what other faults can be linked to this switch.

 

[Manny]

Hi! So I solved the problem with the fuel gauge. Thank God for this forum. My clutch switch is OK. When the tank was full, the indicator was only halfway. After driving about 150 km, it was zero and lit orange. So I'm a float to check. I bent the float's arm a little. I suspected it was touching the tank wall. The motorcycle had a minor accident. When I refit everything, the fuel gauge is already working properly.
Thank God once again that I found this forum. There is a lot of information and experience for riders.
Excuse me for my English.