Front wheel removal

BINGO

You have really contributed here. You and others are who make this such a great site.

I may be able to follow your lead with the time comes.

I too have a Mark Parnes tire balancer, and like your insight about the set screw vs. the thumb screw. Did you by chance communicate with him regarding that ? I always got the impression he liked hearing from his customers about improvements.
 
i took both wheels out at home and took them to a local tyre dealer.
he fitted and balanced avon cobra's, and charged £275, (supply and fit)
both wheels easily removed , and re-fitted.
bike now rides like a dream:)
 
BINGO

You have really contributed here. You and others are who make this such a great site.

I may be able to follow your lead with the time comes.

I too have a Mark Parnes tire balancer, and like your insight about the set screw vs. the thumb screw. Did you by chance communicate with him regarding that ? I always got the impression he liked hearing from his customers about improvements.


Thanks for the kind remark.

I am going to contact Marc about the set screw issue. He could save a little money, too, by using set screws instead of thumb screws.

About the set screws: Most set screws have a sharp ring on the end presumably to bite into whatever you are using it for. The Marc Parnes balancer is very precisely made with just enough clearance for the cones to slip on. The set screws can dig in to the shaft just enough to make it so the cones get stuck. So much so that I had to tap one cone of the shaft with a rubber mallet after removing the set screw. I had to lightly sand it with fine wet or dry paper so the cone would slip on freely. To avoid that, I just touched the tip of the set screws to my grind stone to remove that sharp ring. Now it doesn't dig into the shaft and the problem is avoided. I'm wondering if that is why Marc doesn't use set screws. Thumb screws generally have a blunt end that doesn't dig into metal.
 
Well, Marc is a machinist, and could provide the option (extra cost, even) of an appropriate set screw compatible with his design.
 
Well, Marc is a machinist, and could provide the option (extra cost, even) of an appropriate set screw compatible with his design.

Yes, and Marc is obviously a good machinist.

After mentioning the set screw, in suddenly dawned on me that there is a way to avoid that problem without using set screws. Just put the spacer in the wheel that has the deep recess. That would keep the cone out far enough so the thumb screw wouldn't interfere with the hub.
But if someone does use set screws, it's no problem at all to nick off the sharp edges of the end of the set screw as I did. It literally took no more than two seconds or so for each screw. I just touched them to my grindstone. Then again, there are set screws that don't have that sharp, round circular ridge that can cut into metal. Not a big issue in any case. Just a fine point that I thought I'd mention. The balancer worked beautifully. I just mounted it between two jack stands. No need at all for a special balancing stand. Marc had a good idea with that; less stuff to store.

BTW, I used Loc-Tite blue on all the bolts. That isn't mentioned in the service manual but it's a good idea with any motorcycle. The torque bolt for the rear caliper took a lot of force to loosen and it obviously was coated with a thread locker.
 
from the RS Warrior forum....works OK.

Z-Warrior:
I wish I could say it was my idea but I stole if from someone on here. From whomever I stole this from I do not mean to take any credit, but to just spread the knowledge.
I use a spark plug socket 3/8" drive. I pulled the rubber insulator out of the socket. I put the hex end (back end) in the axle nut. And put a short 3/8" drive extension through the socket from the wrong end. Works great!

-Z

This is the same method i used to take my front wheel off to change the tire. Like said before. Works great and i didn't have to spend any money. Double great!
Worked great s rider thanks
 
Back
Top