Four pot rear brake kit.

The biggest rear braking improvement I ever got was fitting the car tyre! MUCH better, much less locking. Specially in the wet.
(Now that should start a war...............:))
Oddly some of the biggest lockups I have had was with a C/T - But I was younger then. I link I have lost foot power.

A question that I've just been asked is "Will this accommodate ABS bikes?"
Will the 4 pot caliper alter the way the ABS works ?
Cessation of wheel rotation may just happen a bit more often and make the ABS work more.

I need to work out what NZ600 is in real money.
 
Oddly some of the biggest lockups I have had was with a C/T - But I was younger then. I link I have lost foot power.

Cessation of wheel rotation may just happen a bit more often and make the ABS work more.

I need to work out what NZ600 is in real money.

NZ$ is real money :D
£308.
EUR352.
US$394.
AU$570.
CA$529.

That should about cover it.
 
A question that I've just been asked is "Will this accommodate ABS bikes?"
Will the 4 pot caliper alter the way the ABS works ?

Guaranteed. Not saying it wouldn't work at all but definitely different.
Despite being activated by conflicting wheel speeds the ABS pressure modulation would be engineered for the maximum standard rear brake force or 'grab' with stock rear. The intent with ABS is too apply the maximum brake force sustainable without braking traction for an extended period relying on the on/off pulse to achieve. If your brake suddenly is twice as good with same pressure exerted from the ABS module you are likely to be losing traction more quickly than the ABS is calibrating. It may even cause a fault code and become inactive.
 
Guaranteed. Not saying it wouldn't work at all but definitely different.
Despite being activated by conflicting wheel speeds the ABS pressure modulation would be engineered for the maximum standard rear brake force or 'grab' with stock rear. The intent with ABS is too apply the maximum brake force sustainable without braking traction for an extended period relying on the on/off pulse to achieve. If your brake suddenly is twice as good with same pressure exerted from the ABS module you are likely to be losing traction more quickly than the ABS is calibrating. It may even cause a fault code and become inactive.

But is it the ABS Module applying the force ? or the Master Cylinder ?
Doesn't the ABS just "know" when the wheel is not turning ? thus applying the on/off pulse.
I don't know, I am asking.
 
But is it the ABS Module applying the force ? or the Master Cylinder ?
Doesn't the ABS just "know" when the wheel is not turning ? thus applying the on/off pulse.
I don't know, I am asking.
The ABS is modulating that force coming from both the master cylinderS.
That modulating is the same as you try to achieve without ABS at the handgrip but obviously much faster so there must be a gate or valve operating that regulates that pressure in effect an on and off controller of the pressure already applied excessively by you the rider.

Paul, I would definitely use this unit on any sidecar setup and disconnect ABS if fitted.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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