Engine warning light

[Kevin frazier]

That's exactly what I thought but when I took a look at the prints again I noticed that the sending unit appears to be open, not closed at rest, exactly the opposite to what I was thinking. If it's open at rest that would indicate the contacts close when they see oil pressure??? What do you think???? Look at this circuit. The sending unit is #20. I would need to put an ohm meter on it to see what the orientation of the sender is to confirm the logic around the idiot light activation. If it is like this, then some of my comments in post 47 might be wrong.

Touring diagram?

 

[Kevin frazier]

34 alarm connector

 

[Gregger]

Touring diagram?

Opps, that diagram is not for the Touring. Need to see that orientation.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Raise your tank and just make sure alarm connecror is ok and check screw with phillips head to elimate that, anything else chip? Like blinkers not cancelling ? Or fuel gauge acting up? But first elimate screw and alarm connector i think.

 

[TURBO200R4]

the oil sending unit would have to be closed turning the light on in order to complete the circuit with out engine running. normally closed switch
when engine running pressure opens the circuit and light goes out.
i agree the diagram shows switch open. (may be the engine is running )

 

[Gerald]

Fellows, doesn't the oil pressure sending unit simply provide a ground for the idiot light in the dash (Not sure here)? If so here are some suggestions;
1. A defective sensor could turn the light on. Replace or test it with an ohm meter. If it is giving you continuity while running or when tapping it (assuming you have good engine oil pressure) replace it. The spring inside could be broken or contacts partially fused.
2. A loose wire connection to the sending unit wouldn't turn the light on.
3. A grounded wire (insulation rubbed through for example) could turn light on intermittently. Also if the wire fell off the sending unit or was broken and was touching the frame could turn it on.
4. Moisture in one of the connectors (ECM, dash, etc) could ground the circuit intermittently or provide a short to another circuit through the moisture.

Just trying to think outside the box. I'm not sure from the prints if the idiot light actually grounds through the sending unit or if the sending unit tells the ECM to turn the light on....

If wire connection was loose it could make and break the circuit, this is the easiest check before moving to other possibilities.

 

[Chip]

The oil sending is at the rear of engine just below the valve cover at right side of engine.
I think a screw with phillips head on the wire. Be very carefull when tighting. Make sure u check oil tank is staying full while running and revving.
There r ways of checking the wires. Wire checking may be complicated and best done after changing sender.
Any pieces u can leave off in order to disconect wire would be good.
Reprase in order to check wires
The wire has to come off sensor

I dought if anyone has experience with the code u have it might just disappear when u fix the sendor

Thanks much. I appreciate your help. I’ll check it either Thursday or Friday.

 

[Chip]

Thanks much. I appreciate your help. I’ll check it either Thursday or Friday.

I’ve got the tank and the covers on both sides off. Seat is off. I can see the sending unit. It looks like the rubber boot from the air filter needs to be taken out. The weather here is supposed to be wet on Saturday. I’ll work on it tomorrow.
Talk with you guys tomorrow night

 

[TURBO200R4]

It might be worth a try to take some pliers and try to break lose the screw.
If it comes loose then u can change without removing parts just be gental with new sensor..
Good mechanics often c short cuts and i am NOT adviceing u to do this just stateing a different way.
If it were me i would break tha rear of the sensor off then pull the wire up and then take the screw out with screwdriver and pliers
Replace sensor and gently tighten screw with pliers

 

[cootertwo]

"What he said"! There ain't no way you'll get a screwdriver on that little screw. An when I used pliers on mine, it was so tight, the whole end of the sensor/switch twisted with it, and broke off. It would be easier to replace the screw with a cap head screw, so you could use an allen wrench to tighten, loosen.