Decosse's keyless ignition

HEADS UP ALERT TO ALL USERS WITH MY KEYLESS SYSTEMS

I stress to emphasize up front that these incidents have been pretty limited, but just wanted to give a heads-up on a potential scenario that you may encounter.

I just went through some diagnostics with a User with a Bonneville - he was having some issues after heavy rain and had noticed similar when he had washed the bike.
This brought to mind two separate incidents of about a year ago, by two different R3 users, following washing a Rocket.
I had originally, at that time, thought water was getting into either the controller or alarm connector, however now I believe differently:
I think we pretty conclusively have the source of the problem.
It's the Triumph clutch switch!
It is particularly easy to short internally when exposed to water.
I am convinced this happens even with Std Key-Ignition bikes, however you would not really notice it per se
(unless you deliberately attempted to start the bike without using the clutch lever, and since we are pre-conditioned to doing this, doubtful anyone would be aware of this)

This was proved conclusively by a User having the KeyLess "stuck on" (even with Kill switch off) but would shut off when the Clutch Trigger wire was removed.
After drying out the switch, it worked normally but even a light spray of water around the switch was enough to trip it again.
He could do this repeatedly.
Note that the switch is common to most models across the Triumph range (even if the clutch perch itself or the main bar switch may be different)
If you inspect the switch you can see it has quite large openings for the clips that hold it into the perch- it does not take much for water to permeate into the switch body and short out the contacts.


CluthSwitch.jpg


The user is still looking at how to prevent water from getting in there.
Filling the cavity with dielectric grease might be a solution - possibly would require a tube with fine nozzle to get it packed densely in there however.
Or just pack it in there like you would pack a bearing .........


This would be the signature:
Ignition turns on if the remote is in range; once it is on, even turning off the Kill switch, the headlights etc would remain on. (or perhaps flashing, relays clicking on & off repeatedly)
- however the ignition circuit itself would be dead unless the kill switch was on
This is because once it turns on, normally it requires the feedback from the Kill to keep it latched; however if the clutch were kept pulled, it would do the same thing;
(You can replicate this behaviour with a system that is fully operational - even with the Kill switch set to Kill; if the remote is within range, when you pull the clutch you will see the lights come on - but of course these would normally go off immediately when you release the lever, unless the Kill Switch had been in the Run position)
i.e. it remains on because the clutch trigger input is remaining on (shorted), rather than off when the lever is released.
Also, because the system does not then switch off completely, the remote's communication remains turned off, therefor it will not re-arm either; so even removing the remote from range or trying to use the remote manually will NOT turn it off.


So the heads up is:
When washing the bike do not get any water near the clutch switch!
If, after riding in extreme weather the system will shut not off completely (the engine will kill, but headlights will not shut off or are clicking on/off) then the problem is most likely the clutch switch is wet.
The short recovery is to disconnect the clutch wire from the PosiTap and if not already, shut to Kill position.
Or unplug the switch from the perch socket and shake it, or blow with compressed air to remove the water.
(note of course that when it is removed from the perch as per the pic above, that is the switch in the 'closed position' - same as pulling lever - so it will not turn off while switch is in this position - it would require the plunger to be pushed in)

Just a quick re-assurance that if your bike was parked and the switch got wet, that your system would NOT become 'live' unless the remote was present, in order to turn it on.
(but again, once it IS turned on, even if you remove remote it would not turn it off again)
Also a re-assurance that this would not cause any issues while actually riding - even if the switch got wet and shorted - the problem is only that it won't turn completely off in spite of setting to 'Kill'

Hope that is helpful to anyone who encounters an issue - but hopefully this will be a non-issue for majority of you.
 
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Well I finally did it yesterday :D I had the kit for over a year:whitstling:
Install was a breeze but I had to do a fair bit of wiring tidy ups from previous installs tho.
So easy to use. Also upgraded neg battery cable to a 4gauge and will do the pos cable soon.

Thank you Ken @DEcosse
 
Washed the bike a couple of times in the last few months and both times I had a problem ,first time I used a hair dryer on all the parts I thought could be causing the problem but could not fix it at the time ,left overnight and all was well.
Second time I washed the bike I was careful not to direct anything near the controller/ relays etc and to be honest where they are positioned it should not be a problem getting wet,during the wash I sprayed the handlebars and that's when I realised it was the clutch switch causing the problem,filled the switch with grease sorted.
Anyone considering the keyless mod do it ,after the supercharger and suspension mods it's my favourite addition
 
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@DEcosse
What is the fix?
Been using my hose so far, but out on the road it will be car washes.
Do I need to carry a bag of sandwich baggies? :thumbsdown:

@Mittzy
I too have just increased both my battery cables to 4ga by adding an additional pos and neg OEM cable.
New battery should arrive today - can't wait to see the difference in cranking, if any.
 
@DEcosse
What is the fix?
Been using my hose so far, but out on the road it will be car washes.
Do I need to carry a bag of sandwich baggies? :thumbsdown:

@Mittzy
I too have just increased both my battery cables to 4ga by adding an additional pos and neg OEM cable.
New battery should arrive today - can't wait to see the difference in cranking, if any.
Where did you get the cables made
 
... What is the fix?
See Mike's post above - pack the switch with dielectric grease
Just DON'T use any type of Silicone Sealant - it you get that inside the switch it won't work at all!

- avoidance is the best 'cure' :D
(simply don't spray hose around the switch - you can certainly wrap a baggie around it if you HAVE to while washing)

Where did you get the cables made
See a reference post I made in the original thread posted for GenuineDealz
Incidentally your kit ships tomorrow ! :D

(PDM60 modules were being delayed direct from Rowe Electronics but are now available)
 
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Going to have to go for this. I'm tired of fitting my fat hand between the windshield and gauges just to get to the key. Triumph engineers must have spent some nights at the pub when they decided on ignition location.
very thoughtless indeed !!
I had Ken make an ignition cable extension and moved the ignition barrel to the left side behind the motor I do not mind using a key and I must be the only one here to say so!! beside I also have another key for the disc lock so in the end I still needed a keychain
 
See Mike's post above - pack the switch with dielectric grease
- avoidance is the best 'cure' :D
(don't spray hose around the switch - you can certainly wrap a baggie around it if you HAVE to)


See a reference post I made in the original thread posted for GenuineDealz
Incidentally your kit ships tomorrow ! :D

(PDM60 modules were being delayed direct from Rowe Electronics but are now available)

Thanks, Ken, I shall do the goop! :roll:

WAY to GO, Paul!
@skydog1000
 
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