Keyless Fuel Cap

[DEcosse]

Just came across this older thread after seeing it as a 'similar thread' below one I was looking at.

You would still need the key to get the seat off

You might be able to replace the seat lock with a pull ring or a knob to turn - just ideas

On my bike I have a 'keyless' seat latch, operated by a solenoid (I used a trunk pop solenoid off a car)
The solenoid is interlocked by the KeyLess system and only active when the bike is dis-armed.

 

[skydog1000]

Looks sweet @DEcosse

 

[Jabo75]

Been using one of these for years.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=191138704432

Thanks! I just ordered one of these.

 

[warp9.9]

Just came across this older thread after seeing it as a 'similar thread' below one I was looking at.





On my bike I have a 'keyless' seat latch, operated by a solenoid (I used a trunk pop solenoid off a car)
The solenoid is interlocked by the KeyLess system and only active when the bike is dis-armed.

This would go great with @Speedy seat modification he did on his Classic. He actually relocated the key lock to the other left side panel. Pretty comfy set up he had.

 

[HansO]

Ken what a great idea, I love the Vid especially the end bit ... cracked me up.
the question I have is where would you put switch or would that also be on key fob, also can you supply bits needed and set up with the keyless ignition

Oh and by the way I will be in touch about our discussion about extras on keyless ignition and order one once I have saved up the molla
I absolutely loved it on Morris's bike made me say more than once " I have to get me one of these" and I know that it is backed by one of the most friendly and helpfull guys .... yeah that's you Ken
incidentally I found All the 'Mericans to be super friendly but Ken went the extra mile to help me find the malfunction after I accidentally got water where it was not meant to be in the module (thanks to Kens expertise even if it get wet it has failsafes to prevent frying it)

 

[DEcosse]

Hi Hans - you getting used to life back out of the fast lane again?

I can provide another auxiliary output from the Controller that is active when the remote is within range (which means you don't have to actually set the ignition, just be next to the bike)
But the remote itself does not have the ability to control an accessory output, so you need a switch on the bike.
The simplest location is where the key-lock itself would go
On my Daytona, I actually mounted the solenoid on the panel where the key-lock was (installed a new dummy cover over it) and located the switch just below that, quite unobtrusively
(you can see it just below the sub-frame rail - almost dead-centre of the pic)

For those without Keyless, you can still retro this, but just have the 'enable' off an ignition source (tail-light or something similar) so that the button is only active with the ignition on.
As I mentioned, with the keyless you can use the enable off that, so you don't actually have to pull the clutch to turn on ignition with that set-up.

(I showed a relay in the video in the earlier post - you probably don't need that)

This is the solenoid I used - used part off Ebay (off a Volvo station wagon as I recall)
But there are lots of choices for this
I chose this one because it was a) compact and b) the parts dismantler cut off the connector so I had that as well c) had a control arm that I figured could adapt to my pull-cable

So just take a look on EBay and see what looks conducive for your Rocket
And looking at the Rocket, I can see you could probably have the solenoid right next to the release with only a short piece of cable (or rod) operating it directly.
i.e. the Solenoid does not have to go where the original key went (although that might be good spot for the switch)

So even ahead of actually getting the KeyLess Hans, this is something you can prep yourself;
just pick up a suitable solenoid and a switch and wire in the interim to an ignition source;
then when you get the keyless you can transfer the power source to the 'disarmed' output of the KeyLess and as described, will then not need to turn ignition on.

You've got things like this - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=311045671059 which is a universal type kit

or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=221773253504

or something like this - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=181793346169

or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=321589494481

This next one looks interesting - would be pretty easy to mechanically adapt the pull and looks pretty compact
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=121693520363

Oh - quick note on the electrical hook-up - if it 'pushes' instead of 'pulls' then reverse the polarity of the connections.
Also note that it needs the spring to 'return' it but the OEM spring on the latch mechanism will be adequate for that.

 

[Steel]

Ok here is my dumb question. If it's an electrical switch to open the seat, then when the battery dies how do I get to the battery?

 

[skydog1000]

My seat is hard to get off with the key and pull cable. Anyone got any good ideas

 

[DEcosse]

Ok here is my dumb question. If it's an electrical switch to open the seat, then when the battery dies how do I get to the battery?

You plan ahead for that eventuality and consider whether you want to create an emergency mechanical relief (which could be a simple as a hole you are able to fish coat-hanger through ) - or a pull string that will operate it from outside (downside there of course is anyone could use)
Although the simplest solution (without adding a mechanical back-up) is to plug another source (charger or other powerlet pigtail off another battery) into your accessory connector
You could also consider whether to leave the existing key-cable in place as well as the solenoid?

My seat is hard to get off with the key and pull cable. Anyone got any good ideas

Typically if you press down gently on the seat above the latch while turning the key it will operate much easier.
If that is the case, you can try adjusting the height or position of the latch to make the alignment better.
You can also lightly grease the latch assy (sparingly is best here otherwise you'll get a blob of it on your seat which will invariably end up on something where you don't want!

 

[1olbull]

Ok here is my dumb question. If it's an electrical switch to open the seat, then when the battery dies how do I get to the battery?

My guess is when there is not enough juice to roll the engine over, there would most likely still be enough to operate the seat latch solenoid.
When mine was left on (with high beam lights) for two hours and would NOT move the engine at all, it still would sweep and operate the horn.
Again, just my limited 'lectrical thoughts . . .