Barnett clutch

Yes I have broke a few things in the 53,000 miles I have on the bike.
Two pistons and liners, learning what happens when you go above the fuel pumps output. I have hit the valves on the pistons with no damage (thank God for titanium valves and high domed pistons.) four or five lifter shafts one lifter piece. I wasted the pressure plate of Nevs Lock up. Obliterated the internal clutch hub, almost exploded the clutch basket (now she has a billet forged one), Munched second gear up thrashing her with the blower. Broke the cam chain guide on the tensioner side (Weak unit now ugraded). Snapped input shaft to the oil pump when the water pump siezed. Of course I have had amazing fun with her I have not taken the speedo back around to zero yet but I am getting close.

All in All a fun hobby
 
Can you explain what's the round lid with three bolts is for and when to open it? It does not seem to allow me to access clutch plate but maybe good for lifter piece and lifter shaft check, I guess.
 

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Warp,

I was under the inpression that the lifter shaft gave little problems if there was enough play in the cable. What was the cause of your failures? Being I am super charging now, is it something I need to watch for?

Thanks,

Ken
 
STRIPES said:
Warp,

I was under the inpression that the lifter shaft gave little problems if there was enough play in the cable. What was the cause of your failures? Being I am super charging now, is it something I need to watch for?

Thanks,

Ken
Click to expand...

I believe most of my failure were because of the limited travel between the stationary head and the pressure plate of the Lock up Clutch (Nevs). Once it is locked up if the lifter shaft rotates anymore the only thing that can happen is either the lifter shaft or the lifter piece has to give. Once I got rid of the Lock feature my problems went away.

I also realize the the extrememe pulling pressure of the lock up especially at higher rpms could have aided in weakening my spring towers on the inner clutch hub. This could be a part of why my inner hub grenaded. Of course I am not for sure but it could be it and the HP/TQ I was hitting it with just was hard on it period. Your sprigs with the kit will be pretty stiff. But then you will eliminate the slippage.

You were right proper Free play adjustment is the best method to prolong clutch life.
 
nomnob said:
Can you explain what's the round lid with three bolts is for and when to open it? It does not seem to allow me to access clutch plate but maybe good for lifter piece and lifter shaft check, I guess.
Click to expand...

In my opinion its stiffens the casting which can flex a little when you pull the clutch in. Plus its a vibration dampner that looks pretty.
 
Thanks, I thought it has maintenance purpose...well it also adds a shiny chrome piece in the engine.

While waiting for parts arrival, I tried to rehearse the adjustment. Then I got into some trouble...first of all, I have almost no experience of mechanic work but reading service manual and the posts on this forum. I was even wondering how to adjust clutch wire and free play that has been discussed on the other thread.

The symptom before my work was that the clutch slipping in high revving. I could cut (disengage) the traction but could not fully engage which is slipping. When I apply moderate throttle. After my attempt to retain free play right amount (2-3mm) as instructed in service manual, it end up being engaged all the time.
Now, when I start engine in neutral and as soon as I shift the gear with clutch lever fully pulled as usual, the engine stalls. Apparently, my clutch is not disengaging now.

I attempted to adjust in actuating arm but now even I set it as much tight as I can, the clutch will not disengage. Let me know if you come up with any thought about this symptom.
 
My first thoughts are Clutch lifter shaft wear. as it wears it has to rotate more to disengauge the clutch. Of course this can be pronounced by worn/glazed fibers and or steels.
notice the burnt area on the right lifter shaft. This one is extremely worn.


Yours might be starting to wear or perhaps you need some cable sheath length adjustment or need to move the clutch bell crank arm a spline tooth. some of the 06 models had markings on both the lifter shaft and crank arm. like below




you can get a better idea of free play by using you hand to move the bell crank down on the case. Also to help check at the top just hold the clutch lever out fully and pull on the cable sheath to see how much free play is at the adjustment nut. Sometimes thats easier to check.

step one


step two pull out to check slack
 
Warp,

FWI

I think you are one more top notch, stand up guy for taking the time in explaining plus posting pictures (that help so much).

I'm not a bad wrench turner from my younger racing days but have never done anything on an R3. That is about to change because the super charge will be getting here any day. The only thing I am concerned about is the electronics. Guess a steep learning curve is in order.

Ken \\\STRIPES///
 
Thank you for your diagnosis, I agree that it would be lifter shaft issue.

Now i understand how to check the free play very clearly! I won't make it wrong anymore.
 
Top Notch Post there Warpe It is nice to see guys like you trying to help the less exprenced "OnYa Mate"
Cheers
Hans
 
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